Tech-Master NIB TV Kit #5516 - Page 10 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

timmy · #**136** 12-19-2016, 08:42 AM

Really nice clean job.

Findm-Keepm · #**137** 12-19-2016, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jon A.

That makes me think, Heathkit TVs should have had "builder's signature" etched into the chassis instead of a signature line on the build sticker...

Some of those "kit" cars that used a VW chassis to make an old roadster actually came with a bottle of champagne for when you were finished....

Similarly, my "How to keep your 73-77 Honda Civic/CVCC Civic alive" book had a section on opening a champagne bottle (the last step after an engine rebuild......)

Some KnightKits come with a "Built By" label - I had a Knight power suplly that was built from a kit, and had to rebuild a lot of it - I found the label on the chassis, buried under parts installed in the first steps..

Findm-Keepm · #**138** 12-19-2016, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timmy

Really nice clean job.

Ditto. Chris, great job.

Electronic M · #**139** 12-19-2016, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Electronic M

IIRC I have a 40's Philco speaker mount plug and socket among my parts...It would be an item that someone making that kit back in the day would have in their junk box or get from a parts store...If I can find it then it will be available.

I did find it. It is similar to your yoke plug. I'll post a picture if your interested.

Electronic M · #**140** 12-19-2016, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm

Some of those "kit" cars that used a VW chassis to make an old roadster actually came with a bottle of champagne for when you were finished....

To celebrate or christen/dent it?

Crist Rigott · #**141** 12-19-2016, 04:05 PM

Thanks guys for the kind words. Maybe I'll make a brass plate and attach it to the chassis.

Crist Rigott · #**142** 12-19-2016, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I did find it. It is similar to your yoke plug. I'll post a picture if your interested.

Yes, please! Thanks.

Crist Rigott · #**143** 12-19-2016, 04:17 PM

I finished step 5 (Horizontal Oscillator) late last night. I had to lengthen a white wire from 18" to 27" and from 4" to 6". Everything else went ok. Some of the area got pretty tight.

N2IXK · #**144** 12-19-2016, 04:42 PM

Nice work! Set is really coming along....

Crist Rigott · #**145** 12-19-2016, 04:48 PM

This morning I decided to make a couple of mods to the build.

The first one was to T5 the Synchrogiude Transformer. When mounted to the chassis, the terminals were rotated 90 degrees and then they didn't match the instruction sheet.

Now I had already wired it in but decided that I could turn the guts 90 degrees to match the instruction sheet. After un-soldering the components and removing the transformer, I pried open the case by rolling the edges back even with the sides of the case. I then removed the coil and its base.

I then turned the top metal "clip" 90 degrees to match the instruction sheet. I then inserted the coils back in the case and rolled the bottom edge back over using a small dowel. Now the transformer matches the instruction sheet. I then reinstalled the components.

Crist Rigott · #**146** 12-19-2016, 05:20 PM

The other mod was to the two big caps that have a 90 degree bend on their right hand lead. I really didn't like that too much. So I added another terminal strip to terminate those leads. I cut off the end of a terminal strip and mounted it using an existing terminal strip hardware.

Then I re-did those capacitors.

Much better now!

The last redo was to the 150K resistor next to the up and down terminal strip on the left hand side (TB12). I had to add a longer lead length because it went to another terminal strip. Look closely.

I checked the rest of the instruction sheets and a couple of terminals weren't going to be used on TB13. So I ran the resistor from TB12 terminal strip to the new location TB13 and added a jumper between TB13 and TB14.

Crist Rigott · #**147** 12-19-2016, 05:47 PM

And finally an over all view after step 5.

dieseljeep · #**148** 12-20-2016, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crist Rigott

Tom got me thinking about keeping the long wires. So I came up with this solution:

Now, my big question is having both the CRT and yoke wires with a coil in them will that affect the quality of the picture? Anybody know?

Thanks.

I seems like past practice to keep the yellow wire separate from the rest.
I see you still use the time-proven method of using lacing cord instead of zip ties. That's when craftsmen still cared.
I see more of those strange Chinese names on the caps, but they seem to be good caps.

Crist Rigott · #**149** 12-20-2016, 10:16 AM

dieseljeep,

Yeah, I still like lacing cord. It's a hold over from when I used to do avionic installations. The only time I used Ty-Raps was when attaching the harness to the airframe, if the OEM did the same. Otherwise it was Adel clamps.

Yup, I'll "break out" the yellow wire from the rest of the harness.

I got the caps, that I missed with my order from Just radios, from Sal's Capacitors. Very vice caps indeed.

Crist Rigott · #**150** 12-20-2016, 12:49 PM

I worked on step 6 (Horizontal Output and H.V.). I'm almost done wiring. Step 6 went ok also. I did not quite go step-by-step because I wanted to wire up what was down near the chassis before I installed the flyback transformer. It was much easier to do it that way. All I have left is to wire up the HV lead to the CRT and the power cord.

Here are some pics.