Why no love for this GE roundie ?

[tvcollector]

The positive lugs were easier than I thought.. I didn't realize at first the wires wrap around the terminals, I heated them up with my regular soldering iron and pull them off with my needle nose..

[tvcollector]

I don't know what technique people use to get these cans off.. Last one I got off with only breaking one mounting tab off, this one not so lucky.. They are all broke off.. Now I don't know how I would mount this can back on.. Epoxy or super glue? The solder was very stubborn, no matter how long I put my 180watt soldering gun to them.. These tabs just didn't want to nudge though the holes..

[Electronic M]

I use needle nose to flatten out the tabs so they fit through. Get the solder off, then flatten them out.

[tvcollector]

I did the same thing to the last can, but this one It was hard to flatten them seeing how the solder was just not wanting to move out of the way at least... You mean get the solder off of the broken tabs and resolder them onto the can?

[Electronic M]

No, when the mounting tabs get that damaged (short of trying to solder them to the chassis) the only good way to deal with it is to get another dead can and restuff it....
Alternatively you could just leave the can out, install a solder type terminal strip from radio shack and mount the replacements under the chassis. I've done it before, and while it can make things more cramped there is nothing wrong with it.

[tvcollector]

Not sure what happened but I remounted, powered on, and now get real bad hum from the speaker, and the little glass crystal on the video/color board started glowing or at least I've never noticed it glowing... I give up.. I guess Dave is going to have to fix this..

[Electronic M]

Check your last work. If you mounted a cap backwards, mixed up caps, or have a short or base wiring mix up all of that could cause what you describe. I've burned open power resistors on a can restuff, and all I did wrong was confuse which terminals were which (causing a polarity reversal).

If all you did since it last worked was that can, then it should be easy to fix if you pause, and look at it with fresh eyes.

Learning to find your own mistakes is an important part of your growth as a restorer...When you see your own mistakes you will subsequently make less of them.

[tvcollector]

I removed the can and went over my work on the restuffing job and everything is wired correctly, even got out my tester and tested each lead to make sure each value is right.. I then hooked each cap to their proper leads directly then I ran each ground wire and connected all of them with alligator clippers to the chassis ground.. Looks like a complete mess, but it's only temporary.. Powered set up again and still the problem is there.. I removed the HV output tube when I powered up again and the crystal doesn't glow..

The can was really loose when I powered up the set after restuff job, so possibly may not have been making proper ground connection, or I could have done something to the other exposed caps when I flipped the chassis over to remove/install the second can.. I most likely burned something else out.. There is a small .001 cap that was connect to one of the terminals of the can to ground, I ended up burning it with the soldering iron.. I did check it afterwords and still tested within spec..

If anyone else has an extra can lying around I would probably take it.. I'm most likely going to Radio Shack tomorrow and buy a ground terminal strip and mount them on the bottom, at least with the one can.. May have to drill hole in chassis to install the terminal at a good place under the cans.. If anything I'll just leave the one can empty for looks..

[DaveWM]

a few things on cap replacement.

Can caps of that era are often fine, no reason to automatically replace unless diagnosis indicates a problem. As you have found out its not easy to remove without damage to cap. the same goes for the film type caps, most will be fine.
Diagnosis is the key.

If a can type needs to be replaced the best approach IMHO is to cut the can off at the shoulder (like you did) BUT do it in place, do not remove the can.
I use a dremel bone saw (my words) to do the cutting. Most caps can be reached with this reciprocating saw. These are often used for cutting door trim when installing flooring.

cutting the can off leaves the base and all the wiring (which often is extensive and may have parts like resistors and small caps attached to the pins) untouched. Leaving the lead dress alone makes it much easier for the next guy if nothing else.

Buy the new skinny caps from mouser, they fit much better the foot print of the base.

using a micro drill bit simply drill holes from the bottom of the base close to the remaining terminals and grounds, then install from the top the skinny caps, no need for extention wires/tape/hot glue or any thing else, the fit right in the foot print.

If you feel the need to replace the outer can, just use some alum duct tap about 3/8 wide to reattach the can.


with this method I can do a 4 section can from start to finish in about 20min.

[Zenith26kc20]

It sounds like a wiring error. Are you sure the capacitor is hooked as original?
Can you show a picture of the glowing crystal? It doesn't have to be glowing but I've never seen a detector crystal glow. They just flash and open. I've only seen that once due to a shorted IF transformer.
Does this capacitor supply the audio output transformer it's B+?

[tvcollector]

I went to radio shack and bought a solder terminal as Tom said... I bought solid wires And I'm using these for leads, for extenders... I drilled a hole on the side of the chassis on the upper side next to where the cans are and that's where I'm going to mount this terminal.. I'm going to use the old reference photos follow the color code wires to each shape from the original terminal than read the value of the old can to determine which lead goes to which cap.. Radio Shack had a ceramic .001 cap, So I'm replacing the little red cap that was originally mounted on the old terminals from the can.. I've got the mounted with the 22uf cap as it originally connected..

Old photo:


My new terminal mount:




I was going to Riveter it into the chassis, but I think that will be a bit hard to do without messing the job up.. I'll run over to Home Depot and buy a screw and nut and do it that way, at least for now.. I'll take pic of the crystal in a few.. Btw it glows similar to tube filament glow, but looks a bit brighter..

[Electronic M]

I'd add a ground wire and run it to a chassis solder terminal just to be sure of a good ground, but then again I tend to over do some things...

[old_coot88]

The 'glowing crystal' may be an NE-2 neon bulb if that chassis's the one using an NE-2 in the burst gate circuit.

[tvcollector]

I mounted the new terminal, reconnected everything, and it's still doing the same thing.. BTW the hum turns up/down with the volume control, all the way down you don't hear it.. I don't know what else to think of.. Either there is a problem with the first can, or I could have accidentally disconnected something else by moving the chassis around.. Or blew something up even though I didn't ever hear anything or smell anything.. I don't know where to go from here, other than give the set to Dave to look over.. I even checked for possible wires for continuity, ground continuity from terminal etc.. And everything looks fine.. I can't check the big green power resistors on the power board seeing how Sams only lists specs for only a few of them, and don't know the values..

Here's a pic of the crystal that glows when HV comes up..

[Electronic M]

N701 appears to be a neon bulb...They are supposed to glow orange. They were often used like zezer diodes are now. A gas regulator diode tube (0Z4 for instance) is basically a fancy version of that.