Prototype set is here

[David Roper]

You know what they say about looking twice! At first glance both tubes looked the same wrt to the speaker, but I can see the difference now.

[miniman82]

Either way, I think I now finally have a chance at getting this thing into a very nice looking cabinet. Now if I could get those stinking schematics finished...

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

So, I guess what we've got here, is an organ donor?

Sorry... late night humor

Nick! I was looking at the schematic for the first Westinghouse. It shows two B+ supplies, using three 5U4's. Two of The 5U4's are connected in parallel and supply the 280 volt source. The remaining one supplies the 390 volt source. The original transformer had a tapped HV secondary plus two five volt rectifier windings. I would also go with a different power supply chassis, like from a Magnavox radio.

[miniman82]

I can always redo the one I have, if I find that one supply requires more current. I have 4 Coke bottle 5U4G's and plenty of caps, so I don't think it will be a problem.

[reeferman]

Unless I overlooked something...Harry Poster thinks the previous owner just plugged in tubes to sell the set. It would be interesting to see date codes, tube mfrs, and as the schematic progresses if the tubes might be correct for the circuit.

[miniman82]

Originally Posted by reeferman

Harry Poster thinks the previous owner just plugged in tubes to sell the set.

I don't think that's accurate. All the data thus far points to the tubes being of the right type and in the correct spot for their intended purpose, the only one with a date code later than about 1954 was the 1B3GT HV rectifier. All the others look to be period correct, though a few aren't even connected underneath.

It would be interesting to see date codes, tube mfrs...

I'm still in the process of figuring out a way to get all that data into one picture, I don't think it's gonna work. Too much info, it would clutter up the photo. Instead I labeled all the tubes with their type, and perhaps I will create a spreadsheet with all the other info linked by tube number (V23, V24, ect). The chassis has labels printed on it, so it should be easy to figure out.

[miniman82]

Just won the TC-168 set on Ebay and I'm still working on getting the other one here from Nashville, should be a week or so before I am looking at them both. Just waiting on U-Ship guys to bid low enough.

[ohohyodafarted]

Originally Posted by miniman82

Just won the TC-168 set on Ebay and I'm still working on getting the other one here from Nashville, should be a week or so before I am looking at them both. Just waiting on U-Ship guys to bid low enough.

GREAT Nick! I think this one will be a good match for the prototype. Keep me posted RE: the 19"

[miniman82]

Originally Posted by ohohyodafarted

GREAT Nick! I think this one will be a good match for the prototype. Keep me posted RE: the 19"

I think that in terms of being the easiest to adapt to the proto chassis, you are correct. However, I'd just LOVE to have the double door one. Something about it just says 'you know you want to', know what I mean?

[miniman82]

TC-168 showed up tonight, not in very bad shape at all. Finish needs touching up, but all in all I'm happy for only $100 spent. Proto chassis fits like a glove, not even an inch on either side of it and the support legs for the CRT mask wouldn't make it at all. Gonna have to figure something out for the CRT mounting, since the front would now be held in the cabinet and the rear supported by the chassis. It used to all be supported by the chassis, not a good scheme with that flimsy plastic thing.

Still waiting to hear about the 9-T-79, I hope to have those details ironed out in the next few days. If/when it gets here, I will evaluate them both and make a decision about which will become the new home for this set.

[Electronic M]

If the only thing stopping mounting the unmodified porto chassis/CRT combo in the cabbinet is that back board near the top of the cabinet then why not cut it out of the cabinet to make way for the proto chassis?

[earlyfilm]

Originally Posted by miniman82

Proto chassis fits like a glove, not even an inch on either side

Just wondering . . . .

I've never handled a C-73547, but depending on who made and when they made your cabinet's original 19AP4, it is 4 to 5 inches shorter than a production 15GP22, so when you add a couple of inches for the deeper early CRT socket, just how big is your bucket going to be?

Jas.

[miniman82]

Tom,

That board in the back is removable I think, but it's not keeping me from using the cabinet. The problem is that the mask is secured to the cabinet, where it was attached to chassis before. Because the CRT mounting is now split between the cabinet and the chassis, some means of supporting the CRT from the rear will be required at least while the chassis is removed. I may be able to make up a bracket that hangs from the top, since that's how it originally worked when this thing was B&W.

[Electronic M]

So instead of using the proto chassis' original front mounting you are using the one from the monochrome set's cabbinet, or are you changing the the way the original proto set's front CRT mount from being attached so that it is mounted to the cabbinet instead of to the chassis as I beileve it originally was (only reason I can think of for the latter would be if the tube is too far back on the chassis to look right through the mask)?

Sorry for all the questions. I'm a bit confused as to what you plan to do with the cabinet.

Tom C.

[miniman82]

I think you have that right. The problem is that the way is was originally had the tube at a funky angle, so it would have left gaps in the front of the set between the mounting bezel and the front of the cabinet. If it turns out that it's not possible to do this the way I want to, I can always just keep it the way it was and deal with the gaps.