My Brand New CTC-7!

[DaveWM]

the touchy control, does it flop both ways easy and if so how much range after it locks.

[DaveWM]

oh and the hooking at the top is pretty typical, generally you can straighten out with the horz lock but that assumes the horz lock is not to touchy. Even then its not uncommon to have the hooking. Could be the antihunting network not dealing well with the powerful vert sync pulse. But it rarely is a prob except when looking at test patterns.

[SwizzyMan]

Flops both ways pretty easy but takes a lot less of a turn for it to flop when I am turning it to the left.I get about a bit over a half turn before I lose sync when I turn the horiz hold to the right and about a quarter turn to the left before I lose sync. This was done with a tv show coming from my bt modulator. The horiz is very unstable and will randomly lose sync at any given time.

[tvcollector]

And does it have a better picture if you hook the TV directly to a signal source such as a DVD player, DTV converter box, or cable box?

[SwizzyMan]

Originally Posted by tvcollector

And does it have a better picture if you hook the TV directly to a signal source such as a DVD player, DTV converter box, or cable box?

Yes it not crystal clear though but it is better I plan to run the set when it is working with rabbit ears receiving a signal from the bt modulator and using it as my daily watcher.

[DaveWM]

vertical lock is strong?

[SwizzyMan]

Eh not extremely strong but I can get it so it is stable and won't lose sync but on rare occasions it will lose sync but then I just readjust it. It could do with some work but it suffices for now. I would like it to be very strong once I start actually watching this set.

[DaveWM]

both the vert and horz lock are weak then its prob a defect sync separater.

If it syncs better with a weak signal, then it could be a problem with the AGC setting.

My guess is the sync separater OR the noise inverter Or the sync output.

the reason being its effecting both vert and horz.

I am assuming you have not messed with the AGC or noise inverter settings. Best not to do that unless you know what you are doing.

The best way to determine the problem is the use of a scope, checking the output from the sync separater. Otherwise its pretty much just blind checking.

as a minimum you could try a new a new noise inverter tube/sync sep tube/sync output tube to see if that helps.

the sync lock on this sets should not be the slightest bit critical.

the fine tuning will have a lot to do with it as well. I presume you have tried that to see if it helps. this generally shows up as a dark pic that loses sync
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAk9lKv03zA

[SwizzyMan]

Oh boy a scope really never learned how to use one of those. They have always intimidated me. I have a RCA wo-33 scope but with a different low capacitance probe. Guessing I just hook the ground to ground then use the probe on what is needing to be measured? But tomorrow I will see if I have any replacement tubes for the possible offending tubes listed by you.

[DaveWM]

I am guessing here since no scope to look but areas that can also give trouble

AGC C405 is the filter cap of the AGC. the agc voltage should be clean but if this cap is open then the normally clean AGC voltage supplied by the keyed agc can have hash on it, creating all kinds of problems.

make pics of all the pcb's so I can see what film caps have been replaced. C405 is on the video board.

you can also try adj the noise inverter pot on the back of the chassis, located under the plate where the other screen controls. Note NOT the agc pot that is located on the top of the chassis by the video board.

just note where the noise inverter pot is set. try the patter generator and adj the noise inverter CCW to see if it helps. if not return it to the orig setting.

[SwizzyMan]

OK will take some reference photos today. On some boards that irritating transformer wax has dripped onto some boards. Could that be shorting anything out? I think I might have dripped onto the video board.

[DaveWM]

the wax is not a problem, unless it prevent a tube pin from making contact, not a likely problem.

[SwizzyMan]

Ok took some pictures of the boards here they are http://imgur.com/a/oTaRJ
scroll down all the way to seem them.

[DaveWM]

Ok the video board (one with the brown drops and wax on top).

those brown drops should be tested with your tester.

you should replace the orange electrolytic.

some browns are good some are not, only way to know for sure is to test.

You have some vintage looking replacement caps on the horz board as well, whats the deal? did you test them before installing?

if you find the browns to be testing bad then you may be in for a total recap of ALL of them. test the ones on the video board 1st and see how they check.

make a video showing your test process.

[SwizzyMan]

What do the vintage ones look like?