My Brand New CTC-7!

[DaveWM]

clear covering silver tubular.

modern stuff is going to be dipped radial leads or yellow axial.

[SwizzyMan]

I replaced one that was a bit leaky. I always get so nervous when working on the boards I always feel like I might have damaged the traces. Are the traces easy to break?

[DaveWM]

only if you use bad technique. don't over heat, don't put any pressure on the lead that would tend to push the trace away from the PCB. Using solder wick helps.

[SwizzyMan]

Are the .01's even critical?

[DaveWM]

depends on the circuit and the amount of leakage.

[SwizzyMan]

for the horizontal

[DaveWM]

check the one I mentioned, its the AGC filter cap. If during your testing you find the browns are bad then you can plan on replacing them all. BUT you only want to do a couple at a time. Leave the Chroma ones alone for now, just stick with the ones on the PCB.

do a video of the test process, showing but the check for value and leakage.

[SwizzyMan]

OK I will go and buy some caps today.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

only if you use bad technique. don't over heat, don't put any pressure on the lead that would tend to push the trace away from the PCB. Using solder wick helps.

I've been using a de-soldering iron for several years now. Seldom, if ever damaged a PC board.

[DaveWM]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

I've been using a de-soldering iron for several years now. Seldom, if ever damaged a PC board.

what kind? I have the one with the bulb built into the tip. Works well on thru plated PCB where the leads are not bent over, not as well on non thru plate with bent leads as its hard to get a good enough seal to really get suction on the parts to remove the solder.

On the subject of leads being bent I find it is NOT needed on RCA pcb for the most part as you can get a good joint even with out the thru plating. That being the case I do NOT bend them rather just insert, bend one lead a bit to hold in place, solder the other straight thru lead, then unbend the remaining lead and solder. clip off and done.

IF the leads are straight in the 1st place, I go to the solder remover gun with the built in bulb.

[SwizzyMan]

Ok bought the caps and decided to get a nos 6CG7 the guy at the store told me I could piggyback two 1 uf caps to make a 2uf cap in place of the 2 uf electrolytic can this be done? I can't stick two through one hole on the boards so I think I'll have to just twist tie the leads of one to the other one going to the board.

[SwizzyMan]

Here is a video of how I test my caps.

[DaveWM]

something wacky going on with that tester.

the value test should show a fully closed eye that opens as you dial around, then you can read the value.

You should try this on a new cap and get that tester working. there is a null setting of the eye that is your target.

The leakage test seems to be working, just compare a new cap and make sure its working the way you think it should.

On the 2uf , 2.2uf 450v axial caps are at mouser.

[DaveWM]

IIRC there is a setting (actually a range) that you select for measuring capacitance. there is a separate setting on the same knob that is used for checking leakage. I did not notice you making a change when going from capacity to leakage, maybe I missed it.

[SwizzyMan]

Well I am more concerned about fixing the set now than I am concerned about the cap checker. I think leakage is all I really need for now. Back to my previous question, could I stack two 1uf caps to make a 2uf cap? The guy at the local tube store here down by the Florida hospital said I could. But I thought I read that stacking caps cut the value in half?