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  #16  
Old 07-28-2010, 02:53 PM
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Scuzzer Scuzzer is offline
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No callback yet... Schematics should be fairly easy to find for this correct? I'm not up on TV stuff so if someone could point me in the right direction that would be great.
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  #17  
Old 07-28-2010, 03:29 PM
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freakaftr8 freakaftr8 is offline
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Im sure with our help on the site, it will be a runner for sure. Alot of knowledge here! First thing usually is capacitors, cherck all the caps in the power supply circuits. You can get a vast idea if you search through the forums..
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  #18  
Old 07-28-2010, 03:45 PM
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I rebuild and scratch build tube amps so I'm good to go with the basics of recapping, testing, safety, etc. I have no idea about things specific to TVs though.
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  #19  
Old 07-28-2010, 08:11 PM
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After recapping it's usually just checking/adjusting waveforms, making sure horizontal output tube cathode current is in spec (another familiar tube amp thing), and watching for excess heat from the flyback transformer. Then just make sure the screen linearity/height/width are within spec, and you can enjoy!
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  #20  
Old 07-28-2010, 08:34 PM
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and of course there is that anode thing that can bite you...
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  #21  
Old 07-28-2010, 08:34 PM
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Phil Nelson Phil Nelson is offline
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You will want the Sams service manual. My local library makes copies of any Sams manual for free, but not every library is up for that. If all else fails, you can look it up by model number and order from https://www.samswebsite.com/ .

Phil Nelson
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  #22  
Old 07-28-2010, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kx250rider View Post
I bet it would have overloaded the typical household electrical circuit; if that thing sucked up one more watt! If I recall, a base model CTC-10 uses about 375 watts without a tuner/amp, let alone a remote chassis (with about 6 additional tubes at that time).

Since Steve points out that the first combo was a CTC-10, think this set must be 10, as it has the "COLOR rainbow emblem on the mask, and safety glass. It could be an 11, but all but one of the 11s I've seen, had bonded CRTs and no safety glass.

Charles
Charles,

A good conclusion on why RCA failed to offer remote control in this model. However the tube count in the CTC-10 remote chassis is 11 not 6. So even more rpms on the electric meter.

-Steve D.
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  #23  
Old 07-29-2010, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miniman82 View Post
After recapping it's usually just checking/adjusting waveforms, making sure horizontal output tube cathode current is in spec (another familiar tube amp thing), and watching for excess heat from the flyback transformer. Then just make sure the screen linearity/height/width are within spec, and you can enjoy!
I've just gotten a 23ENP4 CRT rebuilt by Scotty at Hawkeye. UPS delivered it yesterday. It's for a 1965 RCA Victor B&W console that I intend to put back into service(parent's first new set). Besides the obvious metal can caps replacement, how does one check the cathode current of the horizontal output tube. In other threads I've read that too much current on this will "eat up" a flyback transformer. And this RCA has a good one in it. This will be my first attempt at restoring a TV, having done a few table radios & portable phonos before. I also have a 1930 Radiola 82 console a guy at work gave me 2 months ago. Fired it up once, it actually works, but a restore on this radio makes me nervous

Dennis Forkel
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  #24  
Old 07-29-2010, 07:38 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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you should start a new thread on this, but generally speaking you will need to disconnect the lead from the cathode of the horz out tube, insert a amp meter (I like analog meters for this). Its a good idea to connect a .1uf cap across the leads when doing this as well. Often the sets will make it easy for you by providing a jumper that can be disconnected allowing connection to the jumper terminals.
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  #25  
Old 07-29-2010, 08:29 PM
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I like to remove the cathode to ground jumper and permanently install a 1-ohm/5-watt resistor. This way you can measure voltage (since measuring voltage across 1 ohm gives the same readout as if you were reading current), and the meter accidentally coming off the terminals doesn't kill HV.
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  #26  
Old 07-29-2010, 08:48 PM
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Or a fuse would be a good idea.
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  #27  
Old 07-30-2010, 11:44 AM
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Once you figure out the model and/or chassis number of the combo make sure to post it. One of us can likely provide you with a copy of the Sams. You might also want to seek out a copy of the RCA Color TV Pict-O-Guide, shouldn't be hard to find on ebay. (don't overpay)
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  #28  
Old 08-09-2010, 05:13 AM
JB5pro JB5pro is offline
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Please tell us that you saved it! That is a great item and u will be very lucky to have it as well as very happy after it is working with it's picture quality that will be better than many new sets. The all-tube stereo system is known to have incredible sound as well.
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