Motorola Quasar Console from 1967

[tvcollector]

This is why i mentioned about a TV geek coming over there place and saying its the picture tube, and yes i believe it's a solid state. I've never tested transistors resistors etc. I'm good at replacing them if i know which ones are bad. And i was thinking of the same thing about the picture tube. It may be good.. If anything i would just have a local TV repair man come over that knows how to fix old sets like that. I'm not going to cause more damage than good neither. I won't do something that i don't know what i'm doing, unless if I have guidance from someone...


JB5pro, I think input from other users and how Rejuvinators is better, people can say which make/model would be better for me. I would need something thats easy to use like the one mentioned. If you don't want to give any input on anything, you're more than welcomed to walk away from this subject. I've googled rejuvinators and nothing much really comes up on testing equip. plus like some members say, it may not be the picture tube, this is why i mentioned about the TV geek

[JB5pro]

[QUOTE=tvcollector;2983859]This is why i mentioned about a TV geek coming over there place and saying its the picture tube, and yes i believe it's a solid state. I've never tested transistors resistors etc. I'm good at replacing them if i know which ones are bad. And i was thinking of the same thing about the picture tube. It may be good.. If anything i would just have a local TV repair man come over that knows how to fix old sets like that. QUOTE]

I recommend contacting your local authorized Motorola dealer. Your friendly Motorola TV repairman will come out to you with his caddy of panels and parts to fix it right. Is the set still under warranty?

[tvcollector]

Do sets like this actually still have a warranty? I mean the set is over 40 years old

[JB5pro]

Some sets in the '60's came with a lifetime warranty on circuit boards in the TV but I was just tryin to be cute by recommend'n your local Motorola TV repairmen that likely does not exist. Every now and then I am kinda funny. When I am not funny keep in mind I am not charging anything for my version of comedy.
However, I am sure you can get you set in perfect condition with the help available here. There may be a member here that is close enough to u to make a good ole' fashioned service call to u. Maybe u can send the chassis to one of the Motorola experts on here if he is not close enough to drive.

[JB5pro]

It is likely that your CRT is good and can produce a good if not great picture. Maybe post some pics of the chassis inside and out to help diagnose. It is helpful if we see signs of low usage to have a clue if the CRT is still good. Mine produces an excellent picture. It is original from '68

[tvcollector]

Oh i see.. Kinda figured but wasn't sure. Ok, I will get back to you when i get the set in the next few days.. I'll take some nice sized pictures of the Chassis and post back.. Maybe you or someone can point out in the pictures of what part can be or is bad... I can plug the TV in and tell what it exactly does too..

Thanks..

[tvcollector]

I just got off the phone with the guy, and he said he looked at the set more, and there are two places on the partial board where some water damage has caused some swollen, and the other place to turn into mushy oatmeal type feel. He was going to deliver the set to me, due to me not having a vehicle that would fit this set. Now he's backing out, so now I'm making arrangements with a friend to pay him to travel about 50 miles to pick it up, the guy is selling the set for $50, he also mentioned seeing how he just noticed the small defects he mentioned he would go down to $25. He also noticed the set is also missing the cord which is not a big deal. I'm paying a friend $50 to use his help.. Does anyone think this is worth it?

I told the guy i'm going to call my friend to ask him to pick up the TV, and I'll call you back in a few minutes. Now he's not answering his phone

[bgadow]

These sets are getting scarce, so yes, probably worth the effort. I wouldn't sink a tone of money into buying it, though.

If it needs a crt, not too big a deal. Not sure if it uses a 23V type (25AP22, 25XP22, something like that) or the later 25V type. I think Video Display Corp still has 25V tubes available, not sure about 23V.

[tvcollector]

Got the set home, and plugged it in and turned it on and these are the results. Picture does come on, but very dim, out of focus, and lots of red bleeding as you can see in the pics.. Also some lines going from left to right.. I've adjusted the red, green and blue drives and it doesn't brighten the screen much more, and makes the lines more noticeable.. Alos when it's on for a while, there is a noticeable hissing sound when putting my ear to the back of the set, and also notice weired smell, not a frying electronic type of smell, I think the flyback transformer has a problem .. Now what will i have to do to repair this thing?

Here are the pictures of the Screen

[andy]

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[tvcollector]

I just noticed i left the set plugged in and has instant warm up. Leaving it plugged i turned it on and the picture seems a lot better and brighter than when i first plugged it in. Hum i wonder why that is?

[radiotvnut]

Probably because the CRT needed "waking up". I've seen many CRT's, that have not seen regular use in years, that tested near dead upon initial testing. After letting the filaments "cook" at slightly higher filament voltage, the emission came back up.

There were two types of "instant on" in TV's from the '60's and '70's. The first type kept approx. half of the rated filament voltage on the CRT when the set was off. This method is usually found in tube sets. Many of the solid state sets kept the full 6.3 VAC on the filament at all times.

There are many opinions as to how damaging to the CRT instant on can be; but, I'm not a proponent of instant on and I usually disable the circuit whenever I can. The reason is because I've seen too many instant on sets with weak CRT's The main exception has been the early Zenith solid state sets of the early-mid '70's. I think those Zenith tubes would still function if a nuclear blast went off in the neck of the tube.

Concerning your tube, it would probably be a good idea to have it checked by someone with a good CRT tester/rejuvenator. If it's weak, there's a good chance it will respond well to rejuvenation, especially if the tester is a fairly modern one. It's been my experience that these delta gun CRT's usually last a reasonable length of time after rejuvenation with a good tester.

[tvcollector]

So does A CRT Tester/rejuventor Fix a Picture tube permanently, or is it a temporary fix?

Also i did a research on a B&K Precision 470 CRT Picture Tube Tester Rejuvenator pretty cheap..

Is this a good one, does anyone use this one and get great result?

[Eric H]

I used a 470 back in the 70's and it worked pretty well, I believe it has a "Clean" function as well as Rejuvenation.

The Beltron in the one most people here recommend for doing a "Cleaning" on the CRT guns, never used one myself.

They can be found pretty cheap on eBay now and then, the 470 B&K seems to go for quite a lot still.

My opinion on cleaning or rejuvenating is it's not a permanent fix.
On an old B&W set that you will use a few hours a year to demonstrate it might be good enough to get by but one something you want to use for a daily watcher it may not last six months. When the cathode is gone it's gone and nothing will bring it back short of a rebuild. A Color tube just multiplys the problem x3.

[tvcollector]

I just opened the back of the set, and looks like there's about 30 years of dust, so I unplugged picture tube sprayed electrical contact cleaner on the pins and in the holes, also sprayed a lot of the controls, and it brought back the picture very well, The suckshon cup connected to the picture tube i noticed is loose, so i hear hissing when the screen becomes dark. Only problems now is certain parts of the screen has a slightly noticeable green tint and some other areas blue.. Red, blue or green bleeds very bad off objects on the screen depending on the color and back ground, bleeds less depending on color control setting, less color less bleeding. Also when the screen is blank (in between scenes or commercials) the lines are still noticeable...