1040 good buddy!

[Reece]

You could make your own,

http://antiqueradios.com/forums/view...er=asc&start=0

or order one from various sources, here's one:

http://jmpalm.home.mindspring.com/

[Electronic M]

I believe that the second set of knobs were originaly used on postwar RCA TVs as they look like the ones on my 9T246. ARC had an article on replicating those plastic dial glasses a few months to a year back that also might be helpfull.

Tom C.

[Reece]

That piggy-back volume control is a replacement: notice one gang is not used. I suspect the little floating-in-air coil is the oscillator coil, not unusual for it to hover. The double holes for the tuning cap if punched may indicate the mfr. wanted to use the chassis for two different cabinets or with two different brands of caps, to make the cap line up with the cabinet.

[Buzzsaaw]

Yup... saving money to make money.

I have a replacement pot for that double ganged pot/switch. Notice the 3 holes in the front of the chassis. I've seen some other radios with 3 controls out the front. Perhaps a tone control or am/fm switch?

The "do all chassis".. good idea.

I'll have to find some replacement grommets. Notice the 3 flat washers and only one inside " bell " shaped washer. I think this radio has been worked on a bit before. Of course the speaker work shows this. At least the case is fine.

Buzz

[Buzzsaaw]

Got a Question...

The cardboard dial face is warped. In the top area where the dial lamp clipped into the dial face really tweeked the cardboard.
How's the best way to straighten that out so it stays? Maybe use some starch in water and a Dry Iron to make it ridged again?

Buzz

[Reece]

Without a picture it's hard to say about straightening the dial face, but if it has a foil face on cardboard you could do this: thoroughly dampen the cardboard back in the affected area. Then clamp the dial between pieces of wood, using a piece of waxed paper on the front foil side. Leave it a couple of days to dry. It should straighten out. Then you could glue a thin layer of wood, 1/16" or 1/8" thick (hobby store like Michael's) to the back and clamp to dry. I've straightened cardboard rear covers like this and they came out fine, even without reinforcing with anything else.

[Buzzsaaw]

Hi Reece,
Thanks.
The dial is cardboard and a real nice color (gold) with ink transfer lettering. :





and the Edge on view:



I suppose I shouldn't get too much water or moisture on the dial face but the back might be ok. Right?

I'll only get one chance with this and I don't want to ruin it of course. I did a scan of it and the color isn't so hot without using Photoshop's tools, but I could reproduce one if needed. I like your idea about backing it up with thin wood. I think there's enough clearance between the back of the Dial face and the front of the dial pully. I'll do some checking. Looks like the dial lamp did a job on this. Even the clear plastic dial cover is warpped where the dial lamp came close to it.

Thanks again and I really appreciate the help you guys.

Buzz

[Reece]

I think I'd dampen the whole back of that one. Let it sit a few minutes for the dampness to go in. Then when you weight it or clamp it, go easy in the beginning so it doesn't crack, go little by little until weighted flat in half an hour.