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#16
10-06-2012, 08:38 AM
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I just carefully cleaned my chassis with formula 409 sprayed onto a clean cloth used to wipe it down. A bit of work, but no risk of getting water into places you don't want it. By far the dirtiest part of my set was inside the high voltage chassis. The ionized air in that part of the set when it is running is a dust/dirt magnet.
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#17
10-08-2012, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Use a vacuum cleaner to remove all the dust from inside the cabinet and in the optical barrel and the projection light path. Dust will make the picture look dim and reduce the fine detail as well. Clean all the dust you can from the concave mirror, the face of the CRT, the corrector plate, the reflecting mirror and the rear surface of the projection screen with a very light brush, camel hair type if possible. If the mirror surfaces [these are FRONT SURFACE mirrors, so be very careful] have a coating of dust or grime that can't be brushed away, use a good liquid photographic optical lens cleaner and optical cleaning tissue to very lightly clean the surfaces. The corrector plate is most times clear molded plastic and will scratch easily. Clean with the liquid cleaner and optical tissue as with the mirrors. These sets make a bright picture when everything is clean and spiffy inside. Good luck with this project!
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#19
10-19-2012, 09:16 PM
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Update
Bad news. The CRT shows a H-K and a G1 short. The G1 short is my real concern. I have tried removing it with a B&K 466 and a Sencore CR168 Big Mack to no avail. About the only thing left to try is using the old (live wire) 2nd anode around the pins. Problem is I don't have anything that old anymore.
Replacing the 5TP4, the bad tubes and recapping just doesn't make sense. If the 2nd anode trick works on the CRT I'll reconsider. My next post might just be an obit for the set. Phil
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#21
10-20-2012, 01:46 AM
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Some years ago, I spied a funny tube in a box at a neighbor's garage sale. They had no idea what it was for, nor did I, since I knew nothing of old TVs at the time. They gave it to me. Eventually, I happened to mention this tube to a fellow collector, who said that he could use a 5TP4 and traded a complete television for it.
You never know what's floatin' around out there . . . Phil Nelson
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#25
12-10-2012, 10:40 PM
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9-PC-41 update
I was offered a used CRT at a very reasonable price from a fellow AK'er. Thanks. I cleaned the mirror and it is in excellent condition.
I hate to do this, but with the cost of the used CRT, the 11 bad tubes, plus all the caps, my money and time will be spent better on another project. Anyone interested in all/part please contact me. Thanks for all of your encouragement. Phil
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#26
12-11-2012, 12:26 AM
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I recently acquired an 8PC41, paid over $300 to ship it here, but I have no idea if the 5TP4 is any good. The HV chassis has rodent urine stains and rust near the large ceramic resistor, and the yoke has been chewed through the outer cover. Wish you lived closer!
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#27
12-11-2012, 08:51 PM
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9-PC-41 project ON again
Earlier I said I would hit all of the pins with some 2nd anode voltage (a last resort learned from the past). Problem is I have nothing with a 2nd anode lead. Doug from Gateway Electronics suggested hitting it with a live spark from a car ignition.
I took a plug wire off my bike, inserted a Phillips screwdriver, and turned the bike on. I let the spark dance between several pins at a time and slowly rotated the tube insuring all pins were zapped. I connected the CRT tester and when I fired it up there were no signs of a H-K or G1 short, and the emission reads well into the green. Sure wish I had a working something to put it in for the acid test. Am I dreaming or is this an early Christmas present? I'll check it again in a week or so. Last edited by reeferman; 12-11-2012 at 09:56 PM.
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