Can't find my book!

[radio nut]

the picture on the set originally was focussed on the left side and not the right. no matter what I, did the picture was fuzzy on the right side. I replaced the yoke, and this is when I stated when I tried to lay the set down it dropped ...I put the new yoke in and ..no picture, at all. I pulled the caps out of the new from Meyer's yoke and still, no picture. That is when I had to start putting the ion trap on the other side of the CRT neck to get the picture.

[radio nut]

the electros are new, formed 450 volt caps. the diagram calls for 500. thats part of the reason I put a voltage dropping resistor in the power cord to keep the b plus as close to diagram as possible which may still be too high in the long run. my diagram is in my car and my wife has it. i think the b plus line should be 370 or 390 ish.

[Ed in Tx]

Let The Pep Boys help!

[radio nut]

when I first got this set, The 16rp4 that was in it did not have an aquadag or a springy finger to ground the crt coating to the chassis. I did have a thread where I asked where did the shutoff dot go?.
Checking things that members have suggested to check now I found that my different 16rp4 has the aquadag worn down to the glass by the springy finger that I bolted in .
I moved it to a different spot and that probably is why the shut off dot is back again.

[radio nut]

Originally Posted by earlyfilm

The factory schematic for the Muntz 17A2 (Rectangular 16 inch CRT) shows no capacitors in the vertical yoke, but one 56 pf across the horizontal winding that is between the center connection and the Flyback.

Why did you replace the yoke?

If the yoke was shorted when you got the set, there is a possibility that the previous service person trimmed the capititor out, to confirm that the yoke was bad and not the capacitor. Doing that was SOP back in the day before the shop plunked money down for a new yoke. They were not returnable if installed. Most people junked an older set rather than pay what a new yoke installed would cost.

The vertical squiggle (vertical ringing) in the horizontal lines on the left edge indicates cross talk from some to be determined source, the yoke is one possibility, and another are the electrolytic capacitors. You did replace them, didn't you?

I am agreeing with Old Coot here the cap in the yoke.

Also, redress the position of the resistor and leads to as near where the old one was. When you have drilled out the old one, use one of the holes to mount the new one. (Don't to this and the capacitor test at the same time, or you won't know which worked. It makes no difference which you do first, but leave the first in while you do the second.)

James

My new yoke does NOT have ANY cap in it.....So lets see, I pulled out the one that I need? That makes sense on my part!
I pulled them When I did not get a picture after the yoke was installed, thinking that they were keeping the yoke from working correctly, It did not occur to me that maybe I jarred something loose by dropping the set which caused me to need the ion trap on the other side of the crt neck.

[radio nut]

I replaced the original yoke because the right side of the picture would not focus but the left side would, no matter what I did. now the picture is uniform all the way across. in my opinion it is a little fuzzy but my wife said its fine.
I do need new glasses ..... so maybe she is right but the last time I checked the 500,000 ohm resistor in series with high voltage crt line it was about 780,000 ohm's. so maybe that needs replaced. I have avoided that one do to the space below the 1b3 socket and the fact that even at my age my hands shake..........especially working in tight spots!
If I am correct low high voltage can cause out of focus condition.....but I will even admit that sitting away from the set it does seem clear, just not as clear as other sets I have owned. these sets were ...well....higher quality Motorola or RCA units

[radio nut]

I checked my diagram (Muntz M31 ,sam's set 108 folder 8) and my set does not have a 56pf cap that I can find from the center horiz winding and the flyback. Maybe I need one? My set also uses the alternate horiz. damper circuit listed off to the side.
Mine is chassis 16a2.

[radio nut]

well lets see, I replaced the resistor mentioned earlier and it is away from the damper tube. Problem still there,
I wondered about the crt itself since it got bounced around. nope, replaced it and problem still there. I pulled the video out tube so the set would be raster only and the lines are still there....that was also without any signal. I am going to get new electro's that are 500 volts soon.
just asking......I thought bad or leaky electro's would put lines all the way across the screen or a wavy pattern indicating 120 cycle hum?
Plus earlyfilm had wanted to be to check for the cap in the yoke....should I just put one in or jumper in temporarily for testing?

[radio nut]

Originally Posted by earlyfilm

The first problem, is you don't say what era TV you have, or make and model and that prevents anyone from giving you specific instructions.

The left side picture defect sounds like Barkhausen. I say "sounds like," because a picture surely would help to confirm this. There also is a pretty good chance that you will invent a new cuss word before you find the cause!

The cause of this defect is electromagnetic radiation (or rarely electrostatic radiation) from the horizontal sweep that is being picked up somewhere between the antenna and video signal to the picture tube. Since there is a time delay here while traveling though the circuits the second time, the spike or spikes are shifted into the picture.

The below is general procedure for 1940 to mid-1950s electromagnetically deflected TV sets:

The usual cause for this is any tuner, IF or video tube that is missing its shield, or the shield is not properly grounded.

Or, the antenna lead is not shielded or possibly dressed too close to the horizontal output tube, the flyback or HV lead.

Or, if the antenna input is coax and the center and ground connections are reversed, as with a balun coil connected wrong. (This problem usually will come and go as the cable is moved.)

Or, the HV cage is missing or not properly grounded.

Or, aquadag coating is not grounded.

Or, HV lead not fully seated in the CRT.

Or, a current limiting resister in the HV lead is breaking down.

A remote possibility is lack filtration in the control circuit if your set has AGC keying.

On string filament-chassis, a heater cathode short can cause this.

Usually not, but I've seen gassy or slightly shorted tubes cause this. When all else fails, substitute one-by-one all tuner, video IF, AGC, and video amplifier tubes.

Now here is the kicker! Sometimes it goes away for no apparent reason, and only reappears when you clean up and put everything back together!


The second defect, having to move your ion trap, sounds like something such as the CRT, the yoke assembly or the focus assembly or focus coil shifted when you tipped the set.

Your two defects probably are not electrically related. (An exception to this might be if the current limiting resistor in the HV lead is failing.)


James.

I have checked pretty much everything mentioned at the top of this post...subbed horiz. out tube,damper and high voltage regulator. I forgot about the high voltage current limiter resistor....Any way to just check it besides resistance value? or should I just replace it.?

[radio nut]

Originally Posted by old_coot88

For the heck of it, i would try putting the components back in the yoke that came with it.

I would "IF" I kept them or the original directions with mini diagram so I knew what to add to which pins in the yoke.....
And I normally keep the box and directions and just put extra caps or nuts and bolts in those boxes but this time I threw everything out because that would be too easy!

[radio nut]

Oh, The horizontal linearity coil is nos and just like the original makes zero difference to the picture no matter what I do with it. I have run it all the way in and out slowly while watching the set and.......nothing.

[radio nut]

I was able to get a hold of Moyer's electronics where I had purchased the yoke and they will copy and e-mail the mini diagram for the yoke so I will be able to buy/install correct cap or caps for it.

[radio nut]

Well today I installed the correct value parts in the yoke for the ones I removed to make the new yoke match the original one (50mmf cap and a 1000 ohm resistor in series) and the problem in my opinion is worse. It (if I am correct) seems to get worse every time I turn it on, but it is sitting all week unused. OK, So next time I will put in fresh new 500 volt electro's and A current limiting resistor in the high voltage line and see what happens.

[radio nut]

Well,I bought 600 volt electrolytic and installed them. The problem is less obvious. I did form them on a healthily for a couple of minutes butt that can't be a s good as running the set. I will see if the issue goes away after the electrolytic capacitors settle in to their new home.

[Username1]

Manny, moe, and jack make one of those for flat screen LCD tv's....?

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