1940s Emerson

[Eric H]

Those antenna terminals are fairly easy to find, here's some on eBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-2-Screw-...EAAOSwMmBV0KVH

[Kevin Kuehn]

edit Never mind, false alarm.

[Farlander]

I'm glad this comes with all the tubes, since there are about 21 to this tiny set.

[jr_tech]

I see the auction is over... did you get it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1940s-EMERSO...8AAOSwll1WxoXk

jr

[Farlander]

I recently won the bid on a 7 inch 1940s emerson tv and I wanted to know what should I do now? Get a plug (since it has a removable taht isn't there) then try it out or change every capacitor I see? Or get the back cover since that piece is missing.

[N2IXK]

Originally Posted by Farlander

I recently won the bid on a 7 inch 1940s emerson tv and I wanted to know what should I do now? Get a plug (since it has a removable taht isn't there) then try it out or change every capacitor I see? Or get the back cover since that piece is missing.

You will need a cord for testing, but first thing to look for is service info. Then I usually start with a careful removal from the cabinet and inspect for obviously damaged parts and start making up a list of all the caps that need replacement (ALL the paper caps and electrolytics)

[Kevin Kuehn]

The Sams service info is available at the ETF site.

http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/E...-Sams-87-6.pdf

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by N2IXK

You will need a cord for testing, but first thing to look for is service info. Then I usually start with a careful removal from the cabinet and inspect for obviously damaged parts and start making up a list of all the caps that need replacement (ALL the paper caps and electrolytics)

If you can't find a genuine TV power cord, you can get a replacement mixer power cord at Ace hardware. Don't try to force a cord from a laptop power supply or similar. It's easy to break the pins on the interlock male connector.

[N2IXK]

Since that is a hot chassis set, an isolation transformer is going to be needed to work on it safely.....

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

If you can't find a genuine TV power cord, you can get a replacement mixer power cord at Ace hardware. Don't try to force a cord from a laptop power supply or similar. It's easy to break the pins on the interlock male connector.

+1
I keep a couple of those around for bench work on sets with safety interlocks. They work great...If there was an easy way to add the old style mount ears on to them they would make a great replacement cord.

You will probably want to replace the ~6KV deflection/HV stage caps before running it unless getting sound only at best floats your boat.

[wa2ise]

Looking at the diagram, the high voltage is created by an independent oscillator, not related to the deflection. Thus you could get high voltage without deflection, which would produce a damaging bright dot in the middle of the CRT screen.

[Eric H]

Its usually best to start a project with some kind of baseline so you know iif what you do is helping or hurting.

Bringing the set up slowly on a Varied or a dim bulb tester will give you some idea if the set is completely dead or has any major shorts that need to be dealt with.

You will need to do a complete recap, including some 6000volt film caps, however I wouldn't jump right in and replace them all without the slow startup. Also take lots of clear chassis photos, this will help when you forget where something was connected.

When you do recap, start with the electrolytics, then the 6000 volt caps, then the rest.

[Farlander]

Alright I see mostly what I need to do but is this a polarized or non polarized set? Since it's a 1940s tv I'm guessing non-polarized.

[Eric H]

There is no polarity as such, but it is a hot chassis set, meaning one side of the AC line is connected to the metal chassis.

If the cord is plugged in so that the neutral side is connected to the chassis no problem, if the live side is connected to the chassis it can be a dangerous situation.
If you touch the chassis and a ground source, such as a water pipe or a concrete floor in your bare feet you can get 120 volts across your body, this is why an Isolation transformer was suggested earlier in this thread.

I've worked on plenty of hot chassis sets without a transformer but it requires that you pay attention to what you are doing, one hand in your pocket when touching the chassis, wear rubber soled shoes, don't stand in water and so forth.

You can also mark the cord and the set so you can be sure the neutral side is connected to the chassis.

[Farlander]

I was more of asking so I can know which cord to get polar or non-polar. But thanks for the info.