GE 14" Safety Question

[Jon1967us]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

I'm no stranger to working on that set! It's kind of tricky to remove the chassis. You have to reach in from the right side to remove the second anode lead, after removing the yoke. You might have to remove the speaker too?
The last one I took apart, I scrapped.
The one shown is the real cheapie model, no handle!
IDK if that's the early or late production? The early one uses a 5AN8 in the horiz AFC and audio IF, where the later one uses a 3AU6 and diodes for the AFC.
I had a Motorola that was similar, but was a lot better.

No handle is right! More classy that way!

Interesting info - Looks like late prod maybe - I'm seeing a 3AU6 for the audio IF.

[Jon1967us]

Thanks for the responses thus far!

I'm really in no hurry to jumpstart the TV, so I think I'm going to take my time and play it safe and at least test the filter and HV caps before proceeding. I do want to test the CRT, even though I've seen pics of it working from the previous owner.

I have some problems with the CRT tester (B&K 465) and am prioritizing that a bit, replacing some aging components, such as totally open and dry Sprague Atoms, and treating oxidation. The meter is wacked out and quite inaccurate and so I probably need to replace diodes - but thats a topic for another time.

BTW, I've taken a picture of the removal procedure from the Sams in case anyone's interested. Step 6 seems the most tricky!



Someone mentioned the UHF tuner. Yes, it's pretty cool that it has that option, even though it seems like it's basically unusable these days (?) And, yes the UHF dial cord has broken off. Here's a pic of the dial cord diagram from the Sams...



And here's the other side of the chassis, where the party's at. I'm pretty much all "Mousered Up" so I have what I need for a recap...Even a 1KV .015!

[Notimetolooz]

Originally Posted by Jon1967us

I have some problems with the CRT tester (B&K 465) and am prioritizing that a bit, replacing some aging components, such as totally open and dry Sprague Atoms, and treating oxidation. The meter is wacked out and quite inaccurate and so I probably need to replace diodes - but thats a topic for another time.

I have a 465. I doubt very much the diodes are a problem. Five of the six are silicon and the sixth is germanium in the meter circuit. Much more likely is the switches and pots, even the cable is a possibility since it is flexed in use.
Hopefully the panel meter itself is OK.

[Jon1967us]

Originally Posted by Notimetolooz

I have a 465. I doubt very much the diodes are a problem. Five of the six are silicon and the sixth is germanium in the meter circuit. Much more likely is the switches and pots, even the cable is a possibility since it is flexed in use.
Hopefully the panel meter itself is OK.

I missed your post earlier, and you're right, all of the diodes I tested (couldn't find the 5th Silicon) were fine. It was a case of bad electrolytics, dirty pots, and an out of cal meter.

Now it reads fairly accurately.

I'm not sure if the Cutoff test works though. The meter didn't go anywhere on the test, adjusting the G2 knob. Not sure what's going on there...

The CRT on the GE tests fine - low end of 'GOOD' which I think is pretty decent for a 65 YO

[Tube TV]

I'm not sure about this chassis, but a GE that I have with much the same chassis as this is hot and sits on nylon insulators, and insulated tuner shafts.

All metal parts, chassis, HV cage, tuner are connected to 1 line of the 115 volts ac.
If this is the case with yours also keep this in mind and also check the insulators and take note of the screw lenghts. And check the cabinet with a meter after you reassemble.
Also seing as you're new to tv's, save yourself a great deal of hassle and mark the position of the ion trap on the crt neck with a marking pen before you take it off.

Nice looking set. Best of luck.

[Jon1967us]

Originally Posted by Tube TV

I'm not sure about this chassis, but a GE that I have with much the same chassis as this is hot and sits on nylon insulators, and insulated tuner shafts.

All metal parts, chassis, HV cage, tuner are connected to 1 line of the 115 volts ac.
If this is the case with yours also keep this in mind and also check the insulators and take note of the screw lenghts. And check the cabinet with a meter after you reassemble.
Also seing as you're new to tv's, save yourself a great deal of hassle and mark the position of the ion trap on the crt neck with a marking pen before you take it off.

Nice looking set. Best of luck.

Great advice. Will do!

[old_tv_nut]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dielec...y%20discharged.

[DavGoodlin]

I have the Hotpoint version of this GE and have worked on some others. The WORST discharge I ever got was from a '68 GE color when I was 14, I was running it with the shunt regulator cap off thinking that was intermittent HV cause, and when it did not fix the issue, I leaned over the metal escutcheon to replace the insulated cap onto the 6EJ4, and pow - just like that I was tossed backward. I saw stars!

That view of the PC board brought back memories of being dumbfounded any one would design this way. At least RCA 14" from 56-57 was hand wired, not like PC board sets of 1958 and later, that also required clip and hook replacements.

The CRTS were survivors - 70 degree with a standard tube gun. The first step to take is replace the selenium rectifiers, input doubler cap and the filter caps.

GE tended to use better (still bad by now) wax caps and you may be surprised if you do just the power supply, then fire it up.

I call that a viability test, to see if yoke-fly-crt-vot is OK. The wax caps are still needed, or it won't work for long. That UHF tuner is a definite plus, I never saw one on a GE.

[Jon1967us]

Originally Posted by DavGoodlin

I have the Hotpoint version of this GE and have worked on some others. The WORST discharge I ever got was from a '68 GE color when I was 14, I was running it with the shunt regulator cap off thinking that was intermittent HV cause, and when it did not fix the issue, I leaned over the metal escutcheon to replace the insulated cap onto the 6EJ4, and pow - just like that I was tossed backward. I saw stars!

That view of the PC board brought back memories of being dumbfounded any one would design this way. At least RCA 14" from 56-57 was hand wired, not like PC board sets of 1958 and later, that also required clip and hook replacements.

The CRTS were survivors - 70 degree with a standard tube gun. The first step to take is replace the selenium rectifiers, input doubler cap and the filter caps.

GE tended to use better (still bad by now) wax caps and you may be surprised if you do just the power supply, then fire it up.

I call that a viability test, to see if yoke-fly-crt-vot is OK. The wax caps are still needed, or it won't work for long. That UHF tuner is a definite plus, I never saw one on a GE.

You say you worked on a version of this TV? The one thing I would like to know is if it's possible to power on the set with the CRT outside the chassis, so you don't have to go in and out of the chassis as you're working on it.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Jon1967us

You say you worked on a version of this TV? The one thing I would like to know is if it's possible to power on the set with the CRT outside the chassis, so you don't have to go in and out of the chassis as you're working on it.

It's series heaters so you have to short the heater pins or connect a dummy load resistor of correct value (which you compue the resistance and power of based on the current and voltage spec of the CRT heater on the CRT data sheet.

One option to service this set is to remove both the CRT and chassis from the cabinet then connect the 2 on the bench. If you have a long length of spare HV wire for the HV lead you could extend the HV and yoke leads to reach into the cabinet with the chassis outside the cabinet and use the sets own cabinet and CRT as a test jig for it.... probably good to put any floating HV connections in a glass jar or mug to prevent arcing.

[Jon1967us]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

It's series heaters so you have to short the heater pins or connect a dummy load resistor of correct value (which you compue the resistance and power of based on the current and voltage spec of the CRT heater on the CRT data sheet.

One option to service this set is to remove both the CRT and chassis from the cabinet then connect the 2 on the bench. If you have a long length of spare HV wire for the HV lead you could extend the HV and yoke leads to reach into the cabinet with the chassis outside the cabinet and use the sets own cabinet and CRT as a test jig for it.... probably good to put any floating HV connections in a glass jar or mug to prevent arcing.

Couldn’t you just back the crt into the chassis, with anode and yoke connected, when both are outside the cabinet? Just park the crt where it was minus the cabinet, or am I missing something?

[Electronic M]

That fuse story is a hoot...I was kind of expecting fire and or a transistor to splode given the biggest fuse I could find line...

Originally Posted by Jon1967us

Couldn’t you just back the crt into the chassis, with anode and yoke connected, when both are outside the cabinet? Just park the crt where it was minus the cabinet, or am I missing something?

Yes, that is what I described in the first sentence of the second paragraph...the rest of the paragraph was describing lead extensions for if you wanted to keep the CRT in the cabinet.

[JohnCT]

Okay, time for one of Johnny's boring old timey stories:

My dad told me the time he was hanging around the parts counter of his favorite parts supplier (they had the best coffee) and a service man walked in the door with an unboxed picture tube in his arms. He didn't like to pay for the dud (that's what we called the core charge in the old days) and then have to return the dud for credit, so he brought the tube in bare to exchange in the carton right then and there.

As he walked towards the counter, a loud snap was heard and the guy tossed the tube straight up in the air. Dad says everyone hit the dirt like a grenade was tossed, but I think he was just reliving his war years.. Anyway, the guy caught the tube basket style that would have done Willie Mays proud and a tragedy of unimaginable proportions was avoided.

John

[DavGoodlin]

Originally Posted by JohnCT

Okay, time for one of Johnny's boring old timey stories:

My dad told me the time he was hanging around the parts counter of his favorite parts supplier (they had the best coffee) and a service man walked in the door with an unboxed picture tube in his arms. He didn't like to pay for the dud (that's what we called the core charge in the old days) and then have to return the dud for credit, so he brought the tube in bare to exchange in the carton right then and there.

As he walked towards the counter, a loud snap was heard and the guy tossed the tube straight up in the air. Dad says everyone hit the dirt like a grenade was tossed, but I think he was just reliving his war years.. Anyway, the guy caught the tube basket style that would have done Willie Mays proud and a tragedy of unimaginable proportions was avoided.

John

We can all share our stories in any applicable thread. I ALWAYS think about this when I handle a bare CRT! Zap and bang stories like this are endless, so keep them coming!

[JohnCT]

Originally Posted by DavGoodlin

We can all share our stories in any applicable thread. I ALWAYS think about this when I handle a bare CRT! Zap and bang stories like this are endless, so keep them coming!

I have to pace myself Dave! I grew up in the business and could write a significantly sized book of stories from the trenches, but I'd like to contain myself to one every month or two. Certain threads will ping a long buried memory. Some day, someone will comment on constantly blowing fuses and I have a beauty ready to go..

John