Removing cigarette tar from chassis - Page 2 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

Adam · #16 12-09-2006, 05:04 PM

I have cleaned a really gooked up chassis like that with laquer thinner. But I didn't just pour it on the chassis, I used a rag with the laquer thinner on it, or a brush (small paint brush, tooth brush, ...) dipped in the laquer thinner, so I could keep it away from more sensitive parts. And I'm talking about using laquer thinner specifically, not paint thinner. So for really bad sticky cigarette gook, I have resorted to laquer thinner and it worked ok. Although I don't know if I would recommend it given how powerful of a solvent it is, I'd try the rubbing alchohol or one of those other products first.

Bobby Brady · #17 12-09-2006, 05:30 PM

it is 3 or 4 times stronger than paint thinner and will definately remove paint from the CRT frame quick!

Steve McVoy · #18 12-09-2006, 05:53 PM

I always wash any chassis I'm working on with a hose. First remove any paper and cardboard items, then I spray the chassis with a detergent. Then I use the hose to completely rinse it. I avoid spraying the hose inside the power transformer, but otherwise I spray everything. The key is to allow a long time for the water to dry. I leave the chassis out in the sun if possible for a couple of days. If not, I use a heat gun to dry it off.

I've never had a problem with flybacks, IF cans, or anything else as long as I don't get impatient and apply power before the set is completely dry.

Adam · #19 12-09-2006, 05:55 PM

The reason I say to avoid paint thinner is that it drys slowly and leaves an oily residue, I'd never clean anything like a chassis with paint thinner, same goes for turpentine and other similar products.

Phil Nelson · #20 12-09-2006, 08:09 PM

Andy, I don't know what the weather is like in your area, but I would start by spritzing rubbing alchohol and carefully brushing with a children's toothbrush or chubby artist brush. Repeat from top down until the alcohol runs clear.

In this part of the world, the humidity is gonna hover close to 100% for the next few months, so hosing it off on the driveway and drying in the sun (ha-ha, what sun?) is not an option.

It's a balance between functional and beautiful. It's not hard to clean a chassis so that it will be perfectly functional. The TV won't care a hoot if there are, say, some surface stains on the top of the chassis after cleaning. If you want the chassis top to look shinier (some times I do, some times I don't care), try some metal polish. The TV will work the same either way.

I know a few boatanchor fanatics who remanufacture a set (I wouldn't call it restoration) by stripping the chassis down to bare metal -- removing all components and wires, drilling out and replacing all of the original tube sockets, etc. -- having the chassis either replated or repainted, then building it all over again. Maybe that's worth it for a once-in-a-lifetime set, but so far I haven't met such a critter :-)

Phil

andy · #21 12-09-2006, 10:06 PM

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Carmine · #22 12-09-2006, 10:13 PM

Use Automotive Brake-Kleen.

It's not as strong as lacquer thinner, and it leaves no residue by design. Evaporates completely on its own in minutes. The older stuff (with clourine) was pretty much dry-cleaning fluid, and the new stuff might be too.