My CTC-16XL Project.

[Yamamaya42]

sound hooked up, and as I thought, I can't get it much better than shown in the last pics.

so now I have a choice :p
use the video amp and video injection and get retrace lines 40% of the time, or use tuner and get slight color ringing and no retrace lines.

until i can get it aligned anyway, I an not going to touch the other coils...

and on a unrelated note..
one thing I noticed about THIS TV anyway, i don't know CT16/XLs do this but, when I turn it off, as it powers off, there is this cute little "fwip " sound out of the speaker. it has always done this since I got it, I don't mind it, I have always wondered do they ALL do it or just mine?

[old_coot88]

Does it do the little 'fwip' at all settings of the vol control? This would at least tell you whether it's originating upstream or downstream of the vol control.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by old_coot88

Does it do the little 'fwip' at all settings of the vol control? This would at least tell you whether it's originating upstream or downstream of the vol control.

The “chirp” , for lack of a better word, only happens when volume is turned up, it even does it with the audio detector tube V8 removed.
As I mentioned, I really don't see it as a problem per-sey, as I always found it endearing to the set.
I just wonder has anyone else noticed this? As I was way to young to remember if the CTC-10 that my parents had did it or not.

[damen]

I've had this noise on RCA's before, always turned out to be the electrolytic connected to the 6AQ5 screen grid supply

[Yamamaya42]

here is another annoyance problem i have noticed, hard to describe, when ever there is something really bright on the screen , it causes a brightness / contrast problem to everything to the right of it, but not the left,

not sure what would cause this
tried to get a pic of it.
https://imgur.com/ao5befU
https://imgur.com/HFbdHMe

UPDATE
this is corruption on the source
caused by the MKV video to DVD software program i used

[old_tv_nut]

??? In the first pic, the big bright thing is on the right, and the large darkened area is on the left of it. The second pic is the other way.

If the soft edged darkening is what you are talking about, and you are going in with your video amp at the detector, it could be because you are using a too-small coupling capacitor for this point.

When you have questions like this, you need to give full details of your setup before diagnosis is possible.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut

??? In the first pic, the big bright thing is on the right, and the large darkened area is on the left of it. The second pic is the other way.

If the soft edged darkening is what you are talking about, and you are going in with your video amp at the detector, it could be because you are using a too-small coupling capacitor for this point.

When you have questions like this, you need to give full details of your setup before diagnosis is possible.

right now, I am using the tuner / IF for input . the video source is a DVD i made using a blu-ray .mkv source converted to DVD, i did see the same thing on a color monitor ( composite ) when i checked , so i suspect the source.

I tried a VGA to composite, and it was no where near as bad, bit still slightly there.
I guess the TV just does not like this scene that much

I was wondering, would there be anything to gain to re-do color AFC setup now that color is getting through the IF somewhat? (vs being done with injected video ) or could that just risk messing things up?

[old_tv_nut]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

...

I was wondering, would there be anything to gain to re-do color AFC setup now that color is getting through the IF somewhat? (vs being done with injected video ) or could that just risk messing things up?

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[Yamamaya42]

ran for 1 hour w/o problems.
other than slight color ringing caused by IF alignment,
HV chamber was cool to touch, after.

still seeing some darkening when there is a bright object on screen, just slight though.
may replace C30 & C25 with new to see if that helps.

still have to put in WORKMAN themistor set for degaussing circuit, the one in set is weak.

[Yamamaya42]

it seems that replacing C30 & C25 did help a bit!
https://imgur.com/BQCGCmX
https://imgur.com/yTOMLmV

[Yamamaya42]

So, it looks like aside from getting the IF aligned at some future date, it looks like I have done all I can for the set now.
Perhaps work on the cabinet a bit, but I'm not very good at that. :/
I have run it for over 3+ hours now w/o problems with chassis out, about time to stick it all in and do fine convergence on it.
Which brings up a slight annoyance problem, over the years and years in storage, the knobs for volume / on-off and brightness were lost, all others are still there, not sure what to replace them with.
They don't have to be EXACT, they just have to work.. :/

[Yamamaya42]

So, right now my choices are with the IF problem...

Ignore it for now. ( bleeding on reds is annoying, but not THAT bad )

Try to tweak the coils w/o any equipment or knowledge and hope to eyeball it to get best picture ( prob no the best idea, but an option )

Try to get a Heathkit IG-57 from ebay some time, which will have no probes, ( can be made ) and no attenuator ( can be got separately ) , which will be in an unknown working state, but can be calibrated / tested via the manual, in order to do an alignment procedure that is tricky and not fully understood :/
Example, SAMS says to disable oscillator section of the mixer-osc, but gives no info on how to do it.
Taking a wild guess, I would say removing one of the bias voltages to the tuner, but I'm not sure.

Or lastly, hope to set aside enough $ some day to haul it 20 miles to a place that can hopefully do it, & get it there & back w/o damage :/

sigh...

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

So, right now my choices are with the IF problem...

Ignore it for now. ( bleeding on reds is annoying, but not THAT bad )

Try to tweak the coils w/o any equipment or knowledge and hope to eyeball it to get best picture ( prob no the best idea, but an option )

Try to get a Heathkit IG-57 from ebay some time, which will have no probes, ( can be made ) and no attenuator ( can be got separately ) , which will be in an unknown working state, but can be calibrated / tested via the manual, in order to do an alignment procedure that is tricky and not fully understood :/
Example, SAMS says to disable oscillator section of the mixer-osc, but gives no info on how to do it.
Taking a wild guess, I would say removing one of the bias voltages to the tuner, but I'm not sure.

Or lastly, hope to set aside enough $ some day to haul it 20 miles to a place that can hopefully do it, & get it there & back w/o damage :/

sigh...

Ways to disable osc stick the tuner between channels (all turret tuners and some water types will open the osc coil circuit between channels, take a spare osc tube you don't like and clip a grid or plate pin off and stick that tube in.

[old_tv_nut]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

...
Try to tweak the coils w/o any equipment or knowledge and hope to eyeball it to get best picture ( prob no the best idea, but an option )

...

Oh, no, no, no

[trinescope]

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut

Oh, no, no, no

+1, it's not going to work. There are no visual clues to know when the IFs are aligned, unlike in a radio where normally they are set for peak response.