Show us your vintage B&W sets! - Page 28 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

***Eric H*** · #**406** 04-03-2004, 10:18 PM

Bryan, I just gotta say that looks more like a Flashlight than TV

Quote:

Originally posted by bgadow
The first old set I brought back to life, a few years ago. Has a scratchy audio that I need to trace but otherwise a reliable set.

But seriously I think your picture got corrupted, can you re-upload it?

Eric

Tubejunke · #**407** 04-05-2004, 12:47 AM

Here are two of my favorite sets. Neither is anything really special I guess but the Philco was my teenage room TV in the early 80s. I bought the Sparton from a guy at the flea market back then who used it as an everyday set until bringing it to the market to view. The strange thing is that both of these sets have been marvelous performers. The Philco went to the shop once in its heavy use days for distorted sound. The Sparton has never been worked on, at least in the last 20 years. They both remain watchable although the Philco came with a brightener and I believe it is catching up with the 21ZP4B. Best viewed with the lights off. I need the front plastic and small knobs for the Philco. Mine is damaged and missing 2 knobs. The Sparton is the more interesting and well built of the two. Double rectifiers, super reception, and extemely crisp, clear picture. Probably one of the best brands of the time. I think they are up there with Capehart and Dumont.

Charlie · #**408** 04-08-2004, 07:38 PM

Today I drove across the state line to Lake Charles, LA to pick up this GE 10T1. The man had contacted me about it a while back in response to an ad I had put on our local online classified website.

He said he turned it on one day a few years back and POW! One of the filters blew. He started changing the caps out, but never got around to finishing. Before this incident, he said it put out a pretty impressive picture.

Also, in this deal, he threw in a bad full of electrolytics for it, extra tubes, and a spare 10BP4. I have checked the emissions of the spare tube and the one in the set... they both check out with excellent emissions!

That's not all... he also filled up my trunk with several binders of Sams and Riders. I think the Sams cover 1 thru 100. Not sure yet what the Riders cover. These Sams will be handy because I have many missing folders in my early ones.

All this for 80 bucks. Seemed like a fair price to me.

Marlin Mackley · #**409** 04-08-2004, 08:04 PM

Charlie, great haul, and even greater car to haul in! Duster? 1975 or there a bouts? I had a '74 for years.
Marlin

Charlie · #**410** 04-08-2004, 08:13 PM

72 Gold Duster with the 318. This car has hauled a few smaller sets, some CRT's from the old TV shop in town, and a few CRT's back and forth to Dallas to be rebuilt.

Steve D. · #**411** 04-08-2004, 09:21 PM

Charlie,

Isn't it a federal offense to transport a vintage tv across a state line?

polaraman · #**412** 04-08-2004, 09:36 PM

The law excludes those whom drive cool mopars!

How about a Truetone!

polaraman

Chad Hauris · #**413** 04-09-2004, 06:33 AM

How's the CRT in that Truetone...I have one of these exact sets, performance is good except CRT is weak.

polaraman · #**414** 04-09-2004, 09:24 PM

What CRT is it? The markings on mine are gone. Really do not want to part out the set. Would like to test CRT though.

polaraman

classicradios · #**415** 04-09-2004, 10:13 PM

Here's one of my recent aquisitions via Captainmoody. This Setchell P-67 had a few burned up resistors that I was able to replace thanks to Charlie sending the Sam's info. Thanks Charlie T! The set still has a way to go even after 95% of caps and lytics have been changed. The picture is very unstable and the 17" CRT needs replacing. The CRT has good emmision but low cut-off so contrast is horrible. I've set this one aside so I can focus on my RCA 14PD8054.
Jim

classicradios · #**416** 04-09-2004, 10:22 PM

Just started cleaning and taking apart this RCA 14PD8054. The TV is in working condition but needs work. Nice strong CRT but the images are distorted (Squished legs, stretched heads, etc...)
I'll slowly go through and replace the caps. Anyone know the proper replacements for the selenium rectifiers in this set? Of course I don't have the Sam's folder on this one. I'm hoping I can go to Radio Shack and buy diodes as replacements. Any help or tips on restoring this TV is much appreciated.
Jim

Jeffhs · #**417** 04-10-2004, 12:24 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by classicradios
Just started cleaning and taking apart this RCA 14PD8054. The TV is in working condition but needs work. Nice strong CRT but the images are distorted (Squished legs, stretched heads, etc...)
I'll slowly go through and replace the caps. Anyone know the proper replacements for the selenium rectifiers in this set? Of course I don't have the Sam's folder on this one. I'm hoping I can go to Radio Shack and buy diodes as replacements. Any help or tips on restoring this TV is much appreciated.
Jim

I'd replace those seleniums with silicon diodes ASAP, as you are planning to do. (Replacing those old electrolytic caps won't hurt, either--in fact, your TV will work much better with fresh ones. Many stubborn problems in older sets (sync, AGC, hum bars, etc.) can be directly traced to defective electrolytics.

Remember, however, to use resistors in series with the new diodes to maintain the proper output voltage, i. e. to get the same output from the silicons as you now read at the output of the selenium stacks.

Selenium rectifiers were good in their day, but that day is long gone. Seleniums can short, causing them to release a gas which smells like sulphur or rotten eggs (the smoke may be toxic as well), which could also create a fire hazard if the selenium actually burns. Depending entirely upon which way the AC plug is in the wall socket, seleniums can cause a shock hazard as well.

In view of all the problems these outdated parts can cause, I think you're doing the right thing by replacing your TV's seleniums with modern silicons. Any TV/radio technician will tell you the same thing.

I'm not a technician, but I was an electronics experimenter many years ago. About 30-35 years ago I had a basement full of old TVs, radios and even a couple old phonographs which I experimented with quite a bit, so I've had some experience with these older style power supplies and circuits; the new ones throw me for a loop because I haven't kept up with the technology, but I still enjoy helping these guys on AK with their problems (and reading about the ones I can't help them with). And I enjoy looking at the pics of the old TVs I see here no end. It keeps me close to a hobby I enjoyed for many years, until I moved to a small apartment about four years ago. I am also an amateur radio operator (got my first license in 1972 and just renewed the license last month or thereabouts); one must know one's way around electronics fairly well to pass the written test for the license (at least that's how it used to be when I first got into the hobby; it's much different today).

Good luck and very kind regards,

#**418** 04-10-2004, 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jeffhs
. . . Depending entirely upon which way the AC plug is in the wall socket, seleniums can cause a shock hazard as well. . .

The type of rectifier used in a hot chassis TV set has nothing to do with the shock hazard. It is the connection of one side of the AC line directly to the chassis, without the isolation provided by a transformer, that causes the hazard.

While I agree that it is a good idea to replace selenium rectifiers with silicon diodes, a hot chassis set will be no safer in regards to shock hazard whether a silicon, selenium, or vacuum tube rectifier is used!

***Eric H*** · #**419** 04-10-2004, 01:54 AM

Those sets are a real pain to work on!

The P.C. board is covered with a metal shield that has to be removed in order to unsolder the caps. It's held on by several solder joints, you have to gently pry up on it while heating the joints one at a time till it pulls away. Don't pull too hard or heat it too much or you will pull the trace off the board!

IIRC the shield is also a ground point so it has to be put back to test the operation of the set so be sure to replace everything that needs to be replaced the first time

A 1 amp 600v piv diode will replace the Seleniums, as noted by jeffhs you may need to add a resistor to bring the B+ back down to normal.

Quote:

Originally posted by classicradios
Just started cleaning and taking apart this RCA 14PD8054. The TV is in working condition but needs work. Nice strong CRT but the images are distorted (Squished legs, stretched heads, etc...)
I'll slowly go through and replace the caps. Anyone know the proper replacements for the selenium rectifiers in this set? Of course I don't have the Sam's folder on this one. I'm hoping I can go to Radio Shack and buy diodes as replacements. Any help or tips on restoring this TV is much appreciated.
Jim

Jeffhs · #**420** 04-10-2004, 02:16 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by wvsaz

The type of rectifier used in a hot chassis TV set has nothing to do with the shock hazard. It is the connection of one side of the AC line directly to the chassis, without the isolation provided by a transformer, that causes the hazard.

While I agree that it is a good idea to replace selenium rectifiers with silicon diodes, a hot chassis set will be no safer in regards to shock hazard whether a silicon, selenium, or vacuum tube rectifier is used!

I stand corrected. Thanks.