My first major overhaul - Page 3 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

fsjonsey · #31 08-23-2007, 08:27 AM

Honestly, I wouldn't trust any old electrolytics, NOS or not.

Tubejunke · #32 08-23-2007, 11:26 PM

I have used some NOS cans that a local electroncs shop sells me at a good discount. I can never get them to admit that age is a factor with capacitors. So far they have been right but I have only tried a few. The reason they sell them to me cheap is only the fact that there is zero demand for them. They have tons of Sams folders they would like to get rid of along with a pile of 70's (I think) color CRT's. You would think they would gladly give me the stuff to avoid one day having to haul it all off to the dump but they only cut me a certain amount from their list price no matter what the item.

Anyhow the capacitor age question has long been debated. I think if you want to use a set as if it were a new set it would be good to replace everything with fresh parts. However I am often amazed at just how long capacitors will do their thing. Especially in radios. I have radios from the 30's and 40's with mostly or all original components except tubes. I also have 3 television sets that are 50 plus years old with mostly original caps and still going strong. I only use the TV sets for maybe 30 minutes at a time though.

fsjonsey · #33 08-24-2007, 01:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tubejunke

I have used some NOS cans that a local electroncs shop sells me at a good discount. I can never get them to admit that age is a factor with capacitors. So far they have been right but I have only tried a few. The reason they sell them to me cheap is only the fact that there is zero demand for them. They have tons of Sams folders they would like to get rid of along with a pile of 70's (I think) color CRT's. You would think they would gladly give me the stuff to avoid one day having to haul it all off to the dump but they only cut me a certain amount from their list price no matter what the item.

Anyhow the capacitor age question has long been debated. I think if you want to use a set as if it were a new set it would be good to replace everything with fresh parts. However I am often amazed at just how long capacitors will do their thing. Especially in radios. I have radios from the 30's and 40's with mostly or all original components except tubes. I also have 3 television sets that are 50 plus years old with mostly original caps and still going strong. I only use the TV sets for maybe 30 minutes at a time though.

Actually, the zenith in my sig is still on all of its original cans, and its 52 years old. The sealed metal cans seem to hold up better than the wax/cardboard electrolytics used in cheap series string TV's and AC/DC radios. I never trust those. All of the paper caps are long gone though. Those bargain green poly film caps JustRadios sells in bulk do their job quite nicely. Sometimes having to solder on longer leads or combine caps to get the corrent value is worth the extra effort to save money. Hooray for being a poor student! It's pretty sad when orange drops are out of your price range.

Boobtubeman · #34 08-26-2007, 01:16 AM

Well for fun i plugged it in and......

HOLY CRAP IT WORKED!!!!!

Even with the bad CRT i got a picture..

Sound is a bit weak till ya mess with the fine tuning
Turn out the lights and its watchable

Hurry up payday i need a CRT!!

Steve

Findm-Keepm · #35 09-04-2007, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boobtubeman

Thanks Steve, i just soldered it in

Has anyone used NOS can capacitors? I have a box of them and was wondering if they are even useful these days...

Steve

Sure do - I reform all of my old NOS caps before using - there are two very well written documents on the web detailing the procedure(s). One is on the Sencore website ("Tech Tip 170" - surely to help sell their Capacitor/Inductor Analyzers) and one is a DOD document - Handbook 1131 " STORAGE SHELF LIFE AND REFORMING PROCEDURES FOR ALUMINUM ELECTROLYTIC FIXED CAPACITORS " - it uses tungsten (incandescent) lamps to limit the current when reforming.

I personally use a Sencore LC53 or LC102 when reforming. I prefer my LC102 with it's full range of checks and it's ability to apply current limited voltages up to 999V. Most (95%) of the Mallory "FP" or Sprague "TVL" caps I've had for 20+ years come right back with just a reforming. CDE (Cornell Dublier) caps come back about 70% of the time, but what I have are much older than either my Mallory, Sprague, RCA, GE or Zenith NOS caps. If it fails reforming, no way would I use it. One caveat - RCA used a multisection cap on some of their Colortrak sets in the 80's - the one thats mounted horizontally in a clip on the back of the chassis - I always replace that with two or three separate caps, because the RCA replacements (Taiwanese made) usually fail quickly.

Check your caps for ones with 450/475 volt ratings - the tube audio guys go nuts for them. I sold a dozen ( I had 31!) of my Zenith caps to one guy here on AK. They'll usually go for 10-15 bucks each. All of the lower voltage ones I keep and use - I've got a HP pulse gen I recapped with an old Admiral cap about a year ago, and it's still working.

Cheers,

Boobtubeman · #36 09-13-2007, 06:07 PM

The restoration is going well with ONE EXEPTION:

I have a 6CD6G Horizontal output tube... Pin3 had a .47@200V bumblebee cap and and a 300 ohm resistor parallel to ground. When i got my new caps
I was given a .5 as a .47 sub. and... THE TV DONT LIKE IT. Really messes up the horiz lin. I put the old.47 in and it was good. Even with no cap on that leg it was good. Now what?

Steve

blue_lateral · #37 09-13-2007, 06:52 PM

Hmm... possibly something wrong with the new cap? Maybe another problem in the circuit? There should be no discernible difference. The bumblebee is undoubtedly leaky, but it probably doesnt matter much because it is shunted with 300 ohms. I would still want to replace it.

What kind of capacitor is the new .05?

John

Boobtubeman · #38 09-13-2007, 07:36 PM

its one of those metalized polyester film MET "tubular axials (yellow)
rated 504k 630v

Yeah the tv is happy with no cap there. Mind ya i had to replace the fly with a RAM X068 fly

Steve

John Folsom · #39 09-14-2007, 10:33 AM

Not sure why you are having trouble finding 600V replacement capacitors.... You will, of course, not find wax paper capacitors, but rather modern film types, either axial lead or radial lead, either one of which will work.

In addition to the already mentioned links to parts suppliers, justradios has a good offering of replacement capacitors including 600V.

http://www.justradios.com/capacitors.html

The entore Sprague Atom line of axial lead electrolytics is still available through Mouser and others.

blue_lateral · #40 09-14-2007, 02:08 PM

Well, Im confused, but since you changed the flyback I suppose that could explain it.

It's not that uncommon to have to make minor componnent changees when replacing a flyback. If the bumblebee is open, I guess that could be the reason it works.

John

Boobtubeman · #41 09-14-2007, 08:38 PM

When in doubt, i added a variable resistor and dialed it in

Steve

Boobtubeman · #42 09-18-2007, 05:55 PM

Well, here is the finished product :

Thanks to BGADOW for the SAMS that got me started

Thanks to RANDY BASSHAM for the CRT

And to all in this thread who pointed me in the right directions for parts and gave advice

Steve

Excuse the pics,,, its a CHEAP camera

blue_lateral · #43 09-19-2007, 12:23 AM

That really looks great. Good job!

John

Dan Starnes · #44 09-19-2007, 04:19 PM

Great job!!!
Dan

Tony V · #45 09-19-2007, 04:44 PM

Picture looks great! I knew it took awhile. With the help of the gang on here you now have not only a nice playing set but a nice looking one at that. This is a good example where input, research, patience and asking plenty of questions got the job done. I know i learned a couple of things watching this restoration. Great job Steve!
-Tony