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#31
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Rejuvenation is not a permanent fix. Depending on the quality of the rejuvenator and the overall condition of the CRT, you could get anywhere from a day up to a year+ out of a rejuvenated CRT. And, some CRT's are so bad that rejuvenation will not bring them back. CRT rejuvenation was mainly done in order to either give the customer time to save up for a new CRT or a new TV set. In the case of TV collectors, it's usually done to give us time to locate a suitable CRT.
I use a B&K 470 for old and newer CRT's and it has done well for me. There is also the B&K 480, which is basically the same as the 470. And, there are the B&K 467 and 490, which are the better models with 3 meters so that the CRT guns can be evaluated all at once. Don't get any B&K tester with a model number below 467 because these older testers have a rather crude rejuvenate function that will often do more harm than good. The older B&K testers are fine if you don't plan to rejuvenate any CRT's and if you only plan to check older pre mid-'70's era CRT's. If you plan to check the newer inline gun CRT's from the '70's-present or plan on doing any rejuvenating, get a newer tester. |
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#32
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The Quasar "Works in a Drawer" never used a 23EGP22. They were all 25GP22's or equivalant. Only the earlier tube rectangulars used the 23". The Quasars were actually great sets. Somewhere I have a Motorola "tube" caddy specifically for the early Quasars with all the modules and books.
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julian |
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#33
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I see, I've pulled the drawer out.. Also there is a noticeable humming noise coming from there, sounds like a transformer hum, The only place i know of a transformer is on the opposite side, where I believe that is the power supply and it's not coming from there, that's the only place of electronics all the rest is in the pull out drawer. I noticed when turning the color all the way down to black/white, green still bleeds off white letters and red bleeds off dark objects.
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#34
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sounds like your set's convergence needs adjusted, there's a panel with many knobs somewhere in the set to do this.
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#35
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If i do that I'm just adjusting the convergence to make up for either bad caps or poor picture tube that needs rejuvination or replaced.. Couldn't this put more of a strain on the components and shorten the life of other components that have to work harder to make up for either leaky caps or picture tube, and cause future problems?
I don't touch most of the adjustment settings unless people recommend doing so.. Last edited by tvcollector; 10-03-2010 at 07:46 PM. |
| Audiokarma |
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#36
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If the convergence or purity is off it's not necessarily due to a serious fault in the set
Components like resistors and capacitors slighly drift from their initial value over the years, as long as they stay within their tolerance, this is acceptable and doesn't compromise their reliability, also the wirewound pots used in convergence circuits can drift off their factory settings over time CRTs also get magnetized and this compromises the color purity (color blotches) so you should check your set's degaussing system and demagnetize the screen I have an early 70s Philips delta gun set, when i got this set the convergence was way off but after some tweaking it came back to near perfect, and it's still there after almost 7 years of daily watching Last edited by Kiwick; 10-04-2010 at 07:54 AM. |
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#37
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so far on the color sets I have worked on (only a few) all the termistors in the degauss circuit have been open (broken actally). I have been using CL-90's in there place
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#38
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I was sure that I worked on a works in the drawer set that had tubes. The more I thought about it, I'm probably getting "touched in the head." The only tubes in one of these sets were the horizontal output, and the damper, and HV rectifier.
No versions built with a 6CW5 vertical output? I worked on enough Motorolas that had boards and tubes to make me a bit skeptical. It's only been about 30 years since I last saw one. |
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#39
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I just called around to the local TV repair shops today and so far i have yet to find anyone that will even be interested in looking at it, all i hear is can't find parts for it.. I'm going to get a tester/rejuvinater and fix the picture tube, now another symptom i've noticed is the picture now twitching a little (squinting) towards the middle of screen, like it wants to shrink.. I don't know what that would be causing that, maybe bad caps? or could that be the sucktion cup being lose, I noticed i don't hear the hissing sound anymore.
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#40
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with the set off but plugged in look at the crt heaters.
should be a dim glow. while watching them turn it on.heaters should brighten.if not the switch cam is busted.common issue.got a ton of these sets back in the day that were given up as bad crt and traded in to beermans.a new tube would look sick at that low of heater voltage too.
__________________
i collect and restore vintage radio's,tv's,and ham gear. email for more info |
| Audiokarma |
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#41
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CRT heaters go dim when set is off and brighten when powering on...
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#42
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You're not likely to find a TV shop that will work on this unless you can find an older TV shop that is hungry and does not have a huge workload. Most shops won't touch anything over 10 years old and many won't touch any CRT set. I recently fixed a solid state RCA console stereo for a guy who had been trying to have it fixed for 15 years. All he got from any of the shops was "it's too old, throw it out" or "we can't get parts". It needed a complete electrolytic recap and I had no problem getting the caps. It's just that when a shop is quick to say that they can't get parts, that means they don't want to work on it. On one side of the coin, I can see where they're coming from. Given the high volume of work they do, they don't want to be tied to something that could take a long time to fix properly and they don't want to become married to an old piece of equipment that the owner keeps bringing back every time it develops a new problem, expecting a free repair. From my point of view, I think that if the customer wants it fixed and is willing to pay for it; then, I should do what I can to help them.
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#43
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Here are pics of the chassis
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#44
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And a few more
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#45
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so what was the pro's of the works in a drawer? seems to me a bit crowded.
maybe the idea was you could service a module with out pulling the tv back from the wall and having to remove the back? for you guys that actually worked on these, how did that work out in the field? |
| Audiokarma |
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