road side Sylvania Hybrid set - Page 3 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

Electronic M · #31 05-10-2013, 03:22 PM

Thanks Dave! PM sent.

I got a few minutes to test it before going to School today I pulled the HOT cap to save the tube from redplating, connected a VCR to the set and.....It has good sounding audio coming thru to the speaker.

This tells me that the RF and IF are likely just fine and that there are good odds that the SS signal board is likely still in decent operating condition.

If I get a chance tonight I may hook up the horizontal plate drive from my B&K analyst to the HOT lead off the fly to see if that gives me horizontal sweep and HV...If it don't then I will have to worry about the fly, HV trippler, and possibly the yoke(or my decrepit analyst LOL.).

Electronic M · #32 06-05-2013, 09:05 PM

Well the analyst did fail to produce a raster about a month ago when I tried it.

I've gotten the sam's for this set so I can start to do proper troubleshooting on it again.

Jon A. · #33 06-08-2013, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgadow

I had a CTC-31 remote set just like that one, should have kept it, another Vk'er got it. The remote sensor is that hole between the channel selectors.

Really? I thought the remote sensor was the hole in the screen.

By the way, I recall reading that Mel Torme was another one of Elvis' "arch rivals".

Seriously though, good luck getting that set to go. Looks like it would be pretty sweet if fully restored. I like the "sweep" style UHF indicator (not sure what else to call it, if anything).

Electronic M · #34 06-08-2013, 11:33 PM

If it is not a digital tuner or a turret type(click-stop) then it is called a continuous tuner. The indicator of the UHF tuner is called a slide-rule dial...Common on UHF tuners before the mid 70's and radios since before TV.

The fly ohms out fine, and the horizontal oscillator is running, but the wave shape is significantly off. Also the grid of the HOT which is supposed to be about -32V is 0V or higher depending on the HV control setting.
Because I could not get a raster with the HOT plate drive from my B&K analyst there is trouble either in the fly/damper section or the HV tripler.

I think I'll try testing the tripler by disconnecting it from the fly and connecting it to the plate drive of the analyst to see if it produces HV....I seem to recall someone suggesting removing a shorted HV winding on a fly and deriving HV from a tripler connected to the HOT plate which should be electrically the same as the test procedure idea I have.

Electronic M · #35 06-12-2013, 02:47 AM

Well after replacing most of the resistors in the horizontal section and fixing a bad PCB trace, I was able to get the HOT to stop redplating and get between 10-15KV on the HV lead(with the yoke unplugged).
At which point I figured it was a good time to put the chassis back in the cabinet for a test power up. At first there was no noticeable light(with the florescent lights on), but there was 20+KV of HV so I tried some knobs.

The result shown below.

There is now sound and raster, but no hint of video so more troubleshooting still lays on the horizon.

I'm feeling a lot more confident now, that I will make this set usable again.

I'm probably going to pause work on this set here for a while so I can fix a vertical problem on my Zenith roundy.

MORE Bananas!!!!

mstaton · #36 06-12-2013, 12:42 PM

That's pretty awesome for a rusty old set someone though out in the garbage! Congrats! You can fix anything if you put your mind to it.

BigDavesTV · #37 06-12-2013, 02:03 PM

Great job, it's good to see a raster on that Sylvie! :-) :-) Looks like it will be useful again after all, good save!

Jon A. · #38 06-12-2013, 05:55 PM

You should display the "before" pics near that TV once it's restored. The back panel looks a bit too far gone though, perhaps it can be used as a template for a new one?

Electronic M · #39 06-12-2013, 06:18 PM

Thanks for the encouragement everyone!

"You can fix anything if you put your mind to it." This set will probably exemplify that saying more so than anything I've ever worked on before.

I plan to try and save the back. It was warped by moisture originally so I figure if I lay it flat on the drive way and hose it down until it softens gravity and perhaps some weights will flatten it back to a decent approximation of it's original shape. Then all I need to do is let it dry, and maybe paint it... I have nothing to loose trying that, so it is worth a shot.
I seriously doubt that I have the tools or patients to make a decent reproduction.

Electronic M · #40 06-13-2013, 02:19 AM

Well since it was raining this evening and fixing the back was on my mind I went ahead and did it.

The plastic neck protector cup was easy to remove which both makes work easier and will likely lead to a better end result as it's mounting tabs on the inside would have prevented the fiber board from laying flat if I left it on. I started by laying it flat on concrete, and letting it get saturated in water which got it started straightening out. After letting it sit a bit; I then used the stub of a brick in the photo below as a weight to slowly work the the milder warps out and diminish the worse ones until it got flat and pliable enough to do what is shown in the photo below...Put a flat board(in a garbage bag to keep it dry) on top of most of the warped area, weigh that down with a tire(with water in the concave parts), and use some water filled milk jugs and that chunk of brick to weigh down the remaining parts.

The result is that it seems to be flattening decently.

I'm going to let it sit weighted like this outside overnight. Hopefully tomorrow there will be sun and it will dry and hopefully it will dry straight.

Once I have it working better, if I decide to restore the cabinet, I'll either lacquer the whole back or lacquer the labels(to preserve them) and paint the rest.

The reaction of the folks upon seeing the warped back before the straightening, was a shocked "What's that!?" from dad, and mom joking that one could put it on a stand and call it modern art, then observing that it is a bit moldy. LOL.

Jon A. · #41 06-13-2013, 08:12 AM

Looks good so far. Are you planning to keep it weighted while it dries? I reckon the results would be better that way.

andy · #42 06-13-2013, 10:39 AM

...

Electronic M · #43 06-13-2013, 12:43 PM

I don't have enough clamps or plywood to to clamp it, but I can and likely will keep it weighted.

Given that tossing the back and doing without was an option before I thought of this method, it does not have to be perfect. As long as it is fairly flat, mounts well, and don't look ridiculous I'll consider this a success.

hi_volt · #44 06-14-2013, 10:19 PM

I'm impressed. I love seeing something like this come back to life again. Way to go!

Electronic M · #45 06-30-2013, 03:43 AM

Well after replacing a lot of resistors around Q205, Q206, a and few transistors that were rusted in to their sockets(the sockets were removed too but not replaced) it now has video!

I had to mess with the AGC and fine tuning to get it, but it is there!

I still need to address the dead color circuitry, and the BAD vertical jitters which video has now revealed, but I'm very happy to have gotten this far. The vertical hold control is at the end of it's range, and despite being sort of locked for most of the photo op it was bouncing rapidly the whole time.

I never thought I'd be working on a set with PCBs and transistors together until I got this one, and after working on the SS mono video chain I'm starting to miss working with good old terminal strips and tubes.