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#32
05-09-2013, 12:11 AM
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I still think maybe I should order that new flyback when I get a chance. I let the TV run for a good long while tonight, and it was doing fairly well, up until a few minutes ago, when I started noticing some speckles in the picture. When I got up close to the set, I could definitely hear a lot of arcing. Since it only happens after the set gets hot from being on a long time, and I can't see where it's coming from, I feel like it has to be inside the flyback. I guess I could try to track down some of that corona dope and paint it on first, if you really think it'd help, though.
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#33
05-09-2013, 12:23 AM
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Try observing the area of the flyback and 1B3GT rectifier with all of the room lights off (in total darkness). You may be able to spot the arcing unless it is inside the flyback or some other un-viewable place.
Phil Nelson
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#34
05-09-2013, 12:53 AM
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I also seem to recall from some past thread the suggestion of using a plastic listening tube to isolate the source of arcing that can't be seen...Just because you can't see it does not mean that it is in the flyback.
Also if this arcing has been going on for a while and it was inside the flyback then it should have killed the fly already. On roundy color sets once the fly begins to arc internally it usually dies quickly...The same should go for most flys of that era.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4
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#35
05-09-2013, 08:41 AM
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It's gonna be tough for me to track down this arcing. After an overnight cool-down, the arcing is gone again. I guess tonight I'll have to take the chassis back out of the case, take the top of the HV cage off again, and let it run for a couple of hours until the arcing starts back up.
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#36
05-09-2013, 01:39 PM
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Using a listening tube is a great idea. A flexible plastic tube can be snaked in right next to components.
Humidity affects arcing. It will be worse during high humidity (easy to notice here in the rainy Pacific NW). Phil Nelson
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#37
05-10-2013, 09:07 PM
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Alright, I'm pretty sure the loudest of the arcing is still coming from the bottom of the 1K3 socket, even after the plastic cup was cleaned. It's definitely starting to affect the picture a bit, as when I hear the louder arcs, the picture also shudders sideways momentarily. It wasn't doing that a couple of days ago.
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#38
05-11-2013, 01:48 AM
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You might consider looking for an NOS cup. If yours is not transparent plastic the plastic may have internally carbonized forming a conductive path that can't be fixed or seen.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4
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#40
05-21-2013, 04:28 PM
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Aah! Look what I just bought!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121113874564 I've had a search up on eBay for one of these for a long time now. My yoke is fine, but the rear cover completely disintegrated, so I had to make a new one out of cardboard. This one has the rear cover intact! That's all I'm buying it for, really, but to me, the $30 it'll cost me is worth it (especially since I've never seen the cover separately, except from someone I messaged a while back who lost it before I was able to contact them). I also ordered a bottle of corona dope today to hopefully save my flyback with.
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#41
05-29-2013, 12:33 PM
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Wow, this new yoke is actually in such nice shape that I think I'll actually use it instead of taking the back cover off and putting it on the yoke that's already in my set. It even has the factory insulator for the width sleeve intact, whereas with my current yoke, I had to put a piece of paper towel tube around the picture tube neck to insulate the width sleeve. Only thing I have to be careful of is that this isn't a direct replacement yoke, so I have to follow the alternative hook up directions in my Photofact.
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#42
05-29-2013, 12:41 PM
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So, about the new yoke. My photofact says something about putting a damping capacitor between terminals 1 and 2. As far as I can tell, this would actually be inside the yoke. The schematic that came with the yoke shows an 82pf capacitor already in place there, and my Photofact shows a 56pf capacitor in that position in the original yoke. So what exactly is the Photofact asking me to do with the new yoke, then? Also, there's an extra orange wire coming from the yoke that seems to be connected between terminals 1 and 3. Perhaps they're saying to connect another capacitor between that lead and the yellow lead (lead 2)? Sorry, I'm just a little bit confused, here.
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#43
05-29-2013, 12:53 PM
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Whoops, nevermind. I just took the back cover off, and I don't think this is unused, after all. One of the resistors under the cover looks like it burned in half, and the 82pf capacitor was already switched for the 68pf capacitor. Although, interestingly, the burned out resistor seems to have not been originally present in this thing. It's connected to the orange lead, which should be directly tied to the other side of the other side of the coil connected to the black lead, without a resistor. Hmm. Well, I think it would probably work if I bothered to correct what was going on in there, but now that I have the back cover off, I think I can use it and the insulator on my current yoke without much issue. I'm not going to ask the seller for a refund since I got what I needed out of the coil anyway.
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#44
05-29-2013, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Just my $0.02. Phil Nelson
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#45
05-29-2013, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Good news: The new insulator and rear cover both fit on my current yoke without any issue, and I'm very happy about that.
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