Picked up my first Color Tube set-for only $1!!! - Page 3 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

ZackN920 · #31 10-08-2015, 12:08 AM

Well, I believe I have a HV problem... I'm now noticing the same symptoms my '49 GE has. Seems all good at start up, then starts sizzling quietly, then gets louder. I'm now thinking those snaps I heard may have been arcs. Last time it snapped/popped I saw a few lines appear on the upper right corner of the screen. Looked like a vector style image, then that faded away. Other than that, I've never noticed any oddities on screen. Are these most likely flyback issues? Or is there something else I should check into.
Oh, by the way, I've replaced those white caps.

old_coot88 · #32 10-08-2015, 01:11 AM

Take a look in your next-to-last post (post# 30), last picture. The anode connector cup on the CRT looks like it has a burn-through and traces of arcing at about the 11 o'clock position. An arc-over to the metal CRT shield would indeed produce a very loud "SNAP!!"

The hissing sound could be from corona there too.

dieseljeep · #33 10-08-2015, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZackN920

Tin whisker's huh. hmm, Is there a "for sure" way to find out if a control has them, without dissasembly?

Well, i've got more pics. This time of the gut's

I'm thinking that my set may be from 1972. Some of the "compactron's" have 72 on them and some other odd #'s. CRT's label also has 72 on it. Also have a pic of the white cap's, are those 2 the only one's? There the only ones i've seen.
Are there any other parts that should be swapped right away? or is it good for now?

Change those two caps, right away, especially the .1 @ 1KV.
Great pictures! As someone else stated: the HV anode cap, does look like it's punctured.
I'm used to seeing the clear vinyl ones, the other firms used. I used to save the ones from bad tripplers.

ZackN920 · #34 10-09-2015, 01:55 AM

I allready changed out those caps.

Anyways, the HV anode cup does not have a hole burned through. It's darker, but that's because the wire(that looks coaxle) was rubbed up against it for who no's how long.
I pulled that apart tonight, and it was clean under there. I recleaned it though, just to be sure. I also pulled the side of the HV cage off to get a better look at everything in there. Only thing that didn't look to good was that plastic thing the tube socket is screwed into. The socked showed no signs of arcing, and the flyback itself, looked great. Idk. I'm going to reassemble it tomarrow after work, but I doubt anything will change.

dieseljeep · #35 10-09-2015, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

Change those two caps, right away, especially the .1 @ 1KV.
Great pictures! As someone else stated: the HV anode cap, does look like it's punctured.
I'm used to seeing the clear vinyl ones, the other firms used. I used to save the ones from bad tripplers.

Looks like I didn't read #31 carefully enough.
Run the set in a dark room, with the cabinet removed and the brightness turned down and observe where the arcing is coming from. I could be coming from the screen controls, that are at boost potential.

ZackN920 · #36 10-10-2015, 11:54 AM

Well, I put everything back together after some cleaning. Powered it up without the back, and guess what? It wouldn't do it! The HV just made a little noise depending on what was on the screen. Made the most noise when on a blank channel.

Another issue came back though. Same issue when I started messing with the set. No raster at startup,(after 30sec warm) except when the brightness was played with. When the brightness is played with the screen just flashes dimly. After running a bit, it quit having that problem.
Now that's back and the sets not recovering from it. I noticed though, in the dark that it will light the screen dimly, if set low but when you raise it, the image zooms in and raster dissappears. Sometimes (intermittantly) full brightness will reappear and it looks good but diss appears again. As it does that, the HV tube will flash dimly...And you'll hear a little zzzz from it.

user181 · #37 10-11-2015, 10:13 AM

I have a general question -- when working on these PortaColors to replace the paper caps, do any of them require extensive disassembly and/or moving the PC board? It seems that while a lot of the underside of the PC board is exposed, portions of it are impossible to get to without removing it.

Also, do you guys lay the unit face-down (propped with blocks & padded material) on the bench to access the PC board?

ZackN920 · #38 10-11-2015, 10:47 AM

I only had 2 papers on mine, both towards the rear edge. I was able to reach the solder joints easily with a standard 40 watt pencil iron. And with carefully monuvering you don't really have to pull up the board to reach anything. It's suspended up a little bit at its mounts. As for how I get to it, I just tip the set on its side, and put a little padding down.

Anyway's, thoughts-any suggestions on my current issue? Is something sucking my HV off?

Electronic M · #39 10-11-2015, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZackN920

I only had 2 papers on mine, both towards the rear edge. I was able to reach the solder joints easily with a standard 40 watt pencil iron. And with carefully monuvering you don't really have to pull up the board to reach anything. It's suspended up a little bit at its mounts. As for how I get to it, I just tip the set on its side, and put a little padding down.

IIRC there is a screw holding down the board....Once it is loose you can move it as needed. I propped mine on it's side for servicing. It may have needed something under it to keep it propped up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZackN920

Anyway's, thoughts-any suggestions on my current issue? Is something sucking my HV off?

There is a distinct double entendre in that statement......

ZackN920 · #40 10-14-2015, 10:48 PM

Ah, you caught that....lol

I was serious though... Hell, should I just crank that hv control up? to up the voltage so it(raster) won't bloom and disappear???
I dont think that would be the proper way, and it'll probable "pop" even more but.....

ZackN920 · #41 10-17-2015, 03:32 PM

Anybody???

Well anyways, I did not crank the HV adjuster up. But with some messing around I found that my full bright picture comes back with some tapping around the HV box, sometimes it will stay, sometimes it dissapear again. When it would come back from a tap, it would also start sizzling again....umm is this what I'm thinking it may be, a bad flyback???...

Some help/guidance needed here guy's....

Electronic M · #42 10-18-2015, 12:45 AM

Odds are it is something like a break in the H out tube top cap wire in the cap, similar break in the HV rect top cap wire, socket contacts, etc. In a HV system an open like that may sort of fix it's self by arcing over the break.....If in knocking on it the break shrinks enough to arc over like I think it is, then all you need to do is find it and fix it.

Arcing usually not equal to bad fly. Arcing is usually insulation failure, dirt forming a conductive path, or an open connection that should not be open. Dead fly usually equals no HV to arc.

ZackN920 · #43 10-22-2015, 08:21 AM

Well, I had some time yesterday to poke and prod around with it. Found that everything attached to the back of the fly is good, but tapping on the HV tube would intermittently bring the pic back and off again. There's also a slight chance at a breakage in the wire going from the top of the HV tube to the flyback as well, because it came back when I played with that some.
I still havnt found where that snap comes from. It will only do that (and sizzle) when the CRT is lit. It did it once in the first 10 minutes but I didn't see it and it wouldn't do it again in 30 or so more that it was on.
I think though, that my sizzle may be corona...(on the crt)I'm not sure why because the anode connection was clean, but that's where it sounds like its coming from when the back is off.
I was also wondering, can a HV rectifier tube cut out intermittently and be linked to my issues. When I had it out of the set there was a chunk of something that was just flopping around inside as well...

ZackN920 · #44 12-06-2015, 11:10 PM

Well, I'm figuring my HV tube was bad/intermittent. It looked odd, can't actually test it though, it's not in my tube tester's book.
Well, after an issue with trying to purchase a good tube I finally got 1 and my full bright raster is back!
No more dark/no raster that only flashes momentarily when brightness is played with. Now I just need to find something to hook it up too and play for awhile too make sure no other issues are going to pop up.

ZackN920 · #45 12-07-2015, 08:16 AM

Well, late last night I got the chance to run it for awhile. Hooked it up to the NES and played it for little over an hour. No issues! Nothing odd happened after warm up or anything! No weird sounds... Just have to make a few final adjustments and it should be good to go for awhile.