1940s Emerson

[Eric H]

It's a non polarized cord.

[WISCOJIM]

Originally Posted by Farlander

I was more of asking so I can know which cord to get polar or non-polar. But thanks for the info.

You can tell by looking at the interlock on the back of your chassis. If both prongs are identical in size, it's non-polarized. If one is larger than the other, in that case you would have needed a polarized cord.

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[Farlander]

Originally Posted by Eric H

It's a non polarized cord.

Alright thanks also would rubber gloves help protect me from the high voltages?

[N2IXK]

Rubber gloves actually rated for electrical insulation would likely be too clumsy to do fine electronics work in. At least the pair I have...

I would suggest using your DMM to check the outlet you will be plugging into first, to make sure that it is properly wired (wider blade is neutral) and properly grounded. I would suggest using at least a GFCI receptacle if you want to skimp on an isolation transformer.

Marking the cord for polarity is a good idea. Installing a polarized interlock and cord is a better one.

[Farlander]

Originally Posted by N2IXK

Rubber gloves actually rated for electrical insulation would likely be too clumsy to do fine electronics work in. At least the pair I have...

I would suggest using your DMM to check the outlet you will be plugging into first, to make sure that it is properly wired (wider blade is neutral) and properly grounded. I would suggest using at least a GFCI receptacle if you want to skimp on an isolation transformer.

Marking the cord for polarity is a good idea. Installing a polarized interlock and cord is a better one.

Alright anyway I can figure out which side of the plug on the tv leads to chassis and which side goes to the rest of the circuits?

[N2IXK]

Yes, you want the neutral side of the line to connect to the chassis.

Unfortunately, the set has the power switch in the grounded side of the line, which will make the chassis hot with respect to earth ground when the set is turned off.

To make such a set as safe as possible without major redesign, I would recommend the following:

Replace the interlock and cord with a polarized type.

Move the power switch to the hot side of the line.

Directly ground the neutral side of the line to the chassis.

Delete C85.

Replace C84 with a safety rated (X1Y2) ceramic cap.

[Farlander]

Originally Posted by N2IXK

Yes, you want the neutral side of the line to connect to the chassis.

Unfortunately, the set has the power switch in the grounded side of the line, which will make the chassis hot with respect to earth ground when the set is turned off.

To make such a set as safe as possible without major redesign, I would recommend the following:

Replace the interlock and cord with a polarized type.

Move the power switch to the hot side of the line.

Directly ground the neutral side of the line to the chassis.

Delete C85.

Replace C84 with a safety rated (X1Y2) ceramic cap.

Should that capacitor have the same capacitance as the original or just anyy capacitance.

[N2IXK]

Originally Posted by Farlander

Should that capacitor have the same capacitance as the original or just anyy capacitance.

Same as original is always best, but .05uF is a bit large for a ceramic type. You may need to go with a polystyrene film cap. Whichever you use, make sure it has the proper safety rating for across the line AC service.

This cap is used for RF bypass purposes, and isn't all that critical as far as capacitance value.

[Phil Nelson]

Originally Posted by N2IXK

Replace C84 with a safety rated (X1Y2) ceramic cap.

You can get safety rated caps from http://www.justradios.com/ , which also has a good article about the whys & wherefores of such caps:

http://www.justradios.com/safetytips.html

Regards,

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

[Farlander]

I'm guessing the type I need is the "line to ground" variant?
Since N2IXK said it's for RF bypass.

[Farlander]

I have been going over the Emerson I got (while waiting for the new power cord) and I have noticed that it seems like this tv was only used once in its life time, as all the tubes test like new (that I have gone through so far) and the crt looks perfect although dusty (like the rest of the inside).

[WISCOJIM]

This is the third thread you've started about the same TV. It helps others follow your story if you keep all chatter about a particular set in one thread. It's also far less annoying...



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[Farlander]

Oh sorry I don't really know how to delete the post so I will figure out how to get rid of it and re post this the other thread.

[Eric H]

I merged all the posts together.