GE 810 Restoration

[Crist Rigott]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

I didn't realize Mouser stocked those yellow axial lead capacitors? Despite all the controversy I still think those are the most accurate modern replacement for our TV's and radios.

I get the yellow caps from Sals Capacitors. Mouser does have yellow caps too. I just get them from Sal.

I try to use Xicon brand carbon film 1W resistors. They cost less than 4 cents each when buying more than 10 at a time. I'll typically buy 25 or 50 of each value that I need. The 2W and 3W resistors are again Xicon and are metal oxide and the 2W cost about 8 cents and the 3W costs about 10 cents.

I try to use Nichicon E-caps with 105C temperature and 10,000 hour ratings.

Mouser does have a Will Call that means I can call in an order and it'll be ready in an hour to pick up. No minimum purchase too. They're great people there.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Crist Rigott

I live in Waxahachie. About a 20 minute drive to Mouser on 287.

j have been to Waxahachie a few times, i had a friend who lived there, but then NASA dropped a Space Shuttle on there ,,,

but that's another story.

[JohnCT]

Originally Posted by Crist Rigott

I try to use Nichicon E-caps with 105C temperature and 10,000 hour ratings.

Good call. Most folks look at four things: value, voltage, lead configuration and cost.

The great thing about Mouser and DigiKey is that the filtering process opens up a world of info. I always look for high temp, high hour, and depending on circuit, low ESR and/or high pulse. .20c difference in cost may be nothing in small quantities, but when you're buying a million of them, we can see why manufacturers spec a lower rated component when they can get away with it.

In these low frequency applications like TV and radio, just a good quality 105c high hour cap is perfect.

I always use Panasonic caps when they're available. I've spent a lifetime in consumer electronics and have rarely seen a Panasonic cap bail.

John

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

I didn't realize Mouser stocked those yellow axial lead capacitors? Despite all the controversy I still think those are the most accurate modern replacement for our TV's and radios.

The yellow caps are fine (I've got 20 year old recaped sets with them still going strong) as long as you don't touch your soldering iron to the side and short the cap by melting the layers of plastic and foil together (made that mistake more than once).

Lately I tend to use the maroon Panasonic caps for straight recap work and save the yellow caps for restuffing (where they are better spatially than the Panasonic caps).

[Crist Rigott]

I re-stuffed the 3 E-Caps C1, C2, and C3 in my usual manner and installed them into the chassis. I'll buff out and install the cans later on.













I then decided to tackle the front panel controls. Each control was removed, checked for value, checked for dead spots, cleaned, lubed, and the shafts were then polished and a coat of clear from Mohawk that is safe for brass. I then worked on each terminal strip near the controls. The tuner shaft will be polished when I work on the tuner at a later date.

[JohnCT]

I like your can restuffing technique. It's different than mine which I will post at some point. I only restuffed paper caps on one radio because the customer wanted it, but restuffing the cans is the best option because it doesn't add any clutter underneath the deck, and if someone is using a SAMS or another identical chassis for reference, they still look the same.

But we have the same issue: what adhesive to use for bonding the cans back together?

I've been using two part epoxy, and indeed, it will be decades at least before they would ever need to be addressed again, but I was thinking about using a high temp hot glue or even hide glue. In other words, something that can allow the cans to be taken back apart with heat.

Oh, and your wiring is FAR too neat!!


John

[Crist Rigott]

Originally Posted by JohnCT

I like your can restuffing technique. It's different than mine which I will post at some point. I only restuffed paper caps on one radio because the customer wanted it, but restuffing the cans is the best option because it doesn't add any clutter underneath the deck, and if someone is using a SAMS or another identical chassis for reference, they still look the same.

But we have the same issue: what adhesive to use for bonding the cans back together.

I've been using two part epoxy, and indeed, it will be decades at least before they would ever need to be addressed again, but I was thinking about using a high temp hot glue or even hide glue. In other words, something that can allow the cans to be taken back apart with heat.

Oh, and your wiring is FAR too neat!!


John

Thanks for the kind words.
I don't glue the cans back on. I just slide them back over the plastic sleeve. It's a slight friction fit. That way, the cans can be simply removed by lifting them off.

[JohnCT]

Originally Posted by Crist Rigott

Thanks for the kind words.
I don't glue the cans back on. I just slide them back over the plastic sleeve. It's a slight friction fit. That way, the cans can be simply removed by lifting them off.

Wow. Excellent idea. Is the PVC bonded to the bottom of the can or is that also a friction fit?

John

[Crist Rigott]

Originally Posted by JohnCT

Wow. Excellent idea. Is the PVC bonded to the bottom of the can or is that also a friction fit?

John

The white PVC sleeve is epoxied to the base of the capacitor.

[Crist Rigott]

Here is a link that goes into detail of how I restuff E-Caps.

http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...1&postcount=46

[Crist Rigott]

I then did the terminal strip near the CRT.






I then started down the left side of the chassis which is the IF strip and finished up near the power transformer.

[JohnCT]

Were the original box caps actually micas, or papers that looked like micas? Is there a way to tell? I have a 51 Andrea with a bunch of the beige "micas" that look like those in your TV and I'm not sure if they actually are mica or not.


John

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by JohnCT

Were the original box caps actually micas, or papers that looked like micas? Is there a way to tell? I have a 51 Andrea with a bunch of the beige "micas" that look like those in your TV and I'm not sure if they actually are mica or not.


John

Good rule of thumb is to check the rated capacitance... usually everything below .001uF=1000pF (or mmf if you prefer the old notation) is genuine mica and everything .0047 and up is paper. I typically replace every rectangular cap .001uF and above with film caps. Even true micas are prone to failure in sweep circuits so ordering spares for those for the sake of our mutual friend Justin Case is an advisable measure to take.

[JohnCT]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Good rule of thumb is to check the rated capacitance... usually everything below .001uF=1000pF (or mmf if you prefer the old notation) is genuine mica and everything .0047 and up is paper. I typically replace every rectangular cap above .001uF with film caps. Even true micas are prone to failure in sweep circuits so ordering spares for those for the sake of our mutual friend Justin Case is an advisable measure to take.

Thanks Tom.

John

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by JohnCT

Thanks Tom.

John

You're welcome.