My CTC-16XL Project.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

I can see now see why these are better than the original RCA FBTs

https://imgur.com/4QcPFRc

But what blows my mind even more, is that it went for $75 and the seller did not overcharge for it

but damn!
I check every month to see what is out there ... and that one sold on 10/20

I should check more often T_T

The link was to German eBay so it probably sold within Germany to someone who likes to play with HV instead of a TV collector....

[kvflyer]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

The link was to German eBay so it probably sold within Germany to someone who likes to play with HV instead of a TV collector....

Oh NO!!!

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by kvflyer

Oh NO!!!

Originally Posted by Electronic M

The link was to German eBay so it probably sold within Germany to someone who likes to play with HV instead of a TV collector....

That would suck if that's how it really ended up, such a waste.
I wish I would have known back during all the years I had it in storage that the FBT was so prone to toasting itself, I would have gotten a spare when they were easier to find.
But at least now it is running very cool, so much I can't see it on infrared over the heat of the HV rect, and there is a big opening for airflow in the HV-cage, yippee ki yay!!! X-RAYS!

But w/o a spare, I will always have some degree of worry with it, the OEM may last, who knows, or it may not.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

That would suck if that's how it really ended up, such a waste.
I wish I would have known back during all the years I had it in storage that the FBT was so prone to toasting itself, I would have gotten a spare when they were easier to find.
But at least now it is running very cool, so much I can't see it on infrared over the heat of the HV rect, and there is a big opening for airflow in the HV-cage, yippee ki yay!!! X-RAYS!

But w/o a spare, I will always have some degree of worry with it, the OEM may last, who knows, or it may not.

If it runs cool it will probably be fine.

Even the X-ray unshielded sets are not a danger unless you like to keep your body pressed up against the running set for hours on end...at normal viewing distance there should not be anything above background levels present.

[Yamamaya42]

Speaking of “dopey arrangement of the HV cage” as EM put it in the other thread, I got a bit too close to that silly plastic cap on the top, (with the wires coming out ) , covering the inverted tube socket for the HV-rect, and, POP-POP-POP-POP! The 24kv found it's way through the little wire hole to me.

Nothing new, I have felt this many times before over the years, I was a bit surprised that it found it's way out so easily though.
I guess I should put some silicone on top of the damn thing to make it harder to arc out, as I don't expect to open that cap any time soon.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

Speaking of “dopey arrangement of the HV cage” as EM put it in the other thread, I got a bit too close to that silly plastic cap on the top, (with the wires coming out ) , covering the inverted tube socket for the HV-rect, and, POP-POP-POP-POP! The 24kv found it's way through the little wire hole to me.

Nothing new, I have felt this many times before over the years, I was a bit surprised that it found it's way out so easily though.
I guess I should put some silicone on top of the damn thing to make it harder to arc out, as I don't expect to open that cap any time soon.

If the hole ain't too big my first thought would be an accumulation of conductive dirt inside... I'd clean inside the cover (especially the wires) and see if I could draw an arc then if necessary silicone the hole.

[old_tv_nut]

+1 ^^

Didn't think of it at first, but putting silicone over an old carbon track is not the most permanent fix.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut

+1 ^^

Didn't think of it at first, but putting silicone over an old carbon track is not the most permanent fix.

There is no real “carbon track” per se, it's most likely as EM. Mentioned, fine conductive dust, as what happened is, I was reaching in the set while on, bumped into the HV wire a few inches above the cap, and the arc leapt from the lug inside under it, through the wire hole, ran up the wire to my arm!

It was exhilarating and surprising at the same time!

[Yamamaya42]

I think I will try 1 more time to replace C70 next time I have the chassis out, (last try I lost vert sweep for some reason ), this time I will try this cap, 80-A72UK1100AA00K , perhaps it will work better than the last try, otherwise, I will put the old one back. :/

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

I think I will try 1 more time to replace C70 next time I have the chassis out, (last try I lost vert sweep for some reason ), this time I will try this cap, 80-A72UK1100AA00K , perhaps it will work better than the last try, otherwise, I will put the old one back. :/

Looks valid but mouser claims non-stocked with a 45 week lead time......if it takes a year to get I'd probably chance a ceramic instead... worse case scenario probably shouldn't be worse than the first part you tried, best case scenario it works good and you've eliminated the Elmenco bleached dynamite stick.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Looks valid but mouser claims non-stocked with a 45 week lead time......if it takes a year to get I'd probably chance a ceramic instead... worse case scenario probably shouldn't be worse than the first part you tried, best case scenario it works good and you've eliminated the Elmenco bleached dynamite stick.

I did find another source, i just have to buy 2

[Yamamaya42]

new caps and resistor for vert installed, this time it worked

https://imgur.com/DDkHAgX

also, relay for video IF installed,
https://imgur.com/DHvE5AQ
https://imgur.com/vkuFTtr

will put one in for Audio tomorrow.

[Electronic M]

One trick for adding a modern relay to a tube set (transformer type only) without mounting an additional power supply is to use the heater line as a relay source. If the relay is 6VDC or less a single diode or bridge rectifier and a 16-25V 220-1000uF lytic will do (if 6VAC just connect direct), for a 12VDC relay use a couple of diodes and a couple of caps in a voltage doubler circuit...For a higher voltage relay either go 110VAC and use the line input or go under 12V.

[Yamamaya42]

Both relays are in and working, I need to tack them down a bit more for wire safety, ( the glue I had was too old )

The" Elmenco bleached dynamite stick." is replaced and working OK now.

C4 & R106 now replaced with EXACTLY what the SAMs says.
I used to have the old R106 and a 56UF (called for 50uf) now has one listed as exact replacement, and replaced old 5.6k 3w R106 with a new 5w one.
however, after all this, it still has made no difference in not being able to get the r/g vert lines at top to line up perfectly. :/
still looks like this.
https://imgur.com/jtYPypZ
can't get closer.

I have tried diff placements of the conv yolk , still same in the end.
not sure what else to try.

[old_tv_nut]

Wild stab: have you checked rectifier X6 and the parallel resistor R217?