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#46
05-29-2013, 08:01 PM
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I think the corona dope might have hurt more than it helped. I think instead of a bunch of small arcing points, it now seems to be building up a charge and arcing out one major point. So I might ought to think about ordering that new flyback after all. Now I've just got to worry about coming up with the $40 I need for that, haha. Probably closer to $50 after shipping, I'd guess.
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#47
05-30-2013, 08:08 PM
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Hmm... You know, I think it might possibly be arcing from the filament winding. I did have a crack in the insulation there that I had to tape up. Do you think it would be a good idea to make a new winding out of new wire? And is there a specific type or thickness of insulation I should look for if I do so?
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#48
05-30-2013, 08:46 PM
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Surplus Sales of Nebraska sells various kinds of HV wire by the foot:
http://www.surplussales.com/Wire-Cable/HVWire-1.html Phil Nelson
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#49
05-30-2013, 09:13 PM
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I'm not sure I want to order enough wire to fill the $10 minimum order there, but that does give me an idea of what to look for. I think I found some on eBay that should suit me. The flyback is supposed to output 13.5kV, and I've found a seller selling 15kV wire by the foot on eBay.
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#50
05-31-2013, 02:49 PM
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Well, I went ahead and ordered the new flyback, on advice from Talon Electronics. I asked them if they might have the flyback in stock at a lower price than Moyer, and they responded back that they did not have the flyback in stock, but added this note:
"It was used on only 3 chassis, so if Moyers has one, grab it - they are scarce!" And since I'm pretty sure Moyer only had one in stock, I figured I should get it, so I'll at least have a spare ready if I can't stop the one I have from arcing.
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#51
06-01-2013, 04:46 PM
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Got myself a new HV 'suction-cup' lead today, as well. I posted on the local Freecycle looking for 20" CRT TVs (preferably broken), and came home with one that looked like it had been buried for a while, and smelled like cats had been marking it. I clipped off the HV lead and took the rest of the set to the recycling center. I had to pay $5 for them to take it off my hands, but that new HV lead is worth that cost, to me (and now I don't have to worry about causing an environmental hazard). I noticed when I went there, though, that the recycling center had a pallet full of '90s CRT TVs out in the back, so it kind of makes me wonder if I couldn't have called them up and asked if I could go looking for parts. Oh well, at least I got a set recycled that might have originally ended up in the dump, though.
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#52
06-05-2013, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Recycling of TV sets is done by the county waste centers in PA and usually get paid by the pound. They are very uncooperative about you taking anything out. 
__________________
"When resistors increase in value, they're worthless" -Dave G
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#53
06-05-2013, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
My guess is that, being in Conservative Country, the recycling center doesn't get a lot of tax money, so they have to charge for the things that are more difficult to recycle in order to stay open.
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#54
06-06-2013, 02:24 PM
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I got my replacement flyback in today. It looks like it's constructed in a much better way than the original! It actually has one of those 'doughnuts' around the outside that I've seen on other flybacks, and my original did not have that 'doughnut' (it looked like it was wrapped in paper and cellophane instead). The insulation on the wires is also still flexible and in great shape, unlike my current flyback where the wires are hard to bend and the insulation was starting to crack (like on the filament winding). So yeah, now that I have it, I see no reason not to just use this one instead of trying to coax the original into no longer arcing.
EDIT: Ha, I'm going to have to do exactly what was done when the original flyback was installed, though, and cut the lead that goes to the 6DQ6 so I can fit it through the opening on the HV cage. For some reason, when they made the front panel for that cage, the hole they put in the front was not large enough to fit an anode cap through. EDIT 2: Eh, it was easier to desolder that wire than I thought, so I just did that, threaded it through the hole, and re-soldered it instead of cutting the thing. Last edited by jmetal88; 06-06-2013 at 04:02 PM.
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#55
06-06-2013, 04:39 PM
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And it seems to have been a good choice! Absolutely no more 'ZAPs' are coming from the HV cage now, and the 'sizzle', while still present, is much quieter than with the old flyback.
Now I guess I need to think about putting bigger capacitors in the power supply filter circuit to see if I can get alleviate the shrinking and blooming problem. EDIT: I don't know if it's worth noting, but the 'sizzle' I mentioned above can't be heard at all when the HV cage is closed. Also, I'm not sure the power supply filter capacitors are as big a problem as I thought. The rippling through the picture is only really noticeable on an absolutely still image, or when the air conditioner for my apartment building is running. I'm moving to a duplex in a couple of months, so I think I'll wait 'til then to decide if I need bigger capacitors (since the wiring will only be shared with one other apartment rather than a whole building full). Last edited by jmetal88; 06-06-2013 at 09:29 PM.
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