Another local Hoffman! COLOR!

[Yamamaya42]

a very dopey looking FBT

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0717222342.jpg

there were some cracks in the outer " doughnut " that was allowing arcing.
but unlike the ones in the roundies, this one seemed ti be made of tar or something and not rubber.

there was no carbon tracks that I saw, just cracks and so on.

as far as replacing the heater winding, i really don't have the type of wire to do it right now, or really know what to even get to use.

[Yamamaya42]

Thinking conservatively, it would be rather foolhardy now NOT TO replace the burned wire now while I have the FBT out of the chassis with it easy to get access to.
Not really knowing what type of wire to get, I made an educated guess.
Copper Core Flexible Silicone Wire Cable Red 10M 32.8Ft (22AWG 40KV)

40KV, well above what this set should generate, 22AWG, should be thin enough for the clearly 2 turns that I see around the core of the FBT, and hearty enough to power the 3A3A/C

[Yamamaya42]

Re-post of original FBT photo.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0716221404.jpg

You can clearly see 2 turns on the heater winding on the core, should not be too hard to replace with the new wire ordered.


You can also see the crack (cracks) in the FBT outer layer which looks to be made out of some kind of hi temp tar, which was easy to melt with an soldering iron, there was a tendency for corona arcing from these cracks but saw no real carbon, and thought it very risky to try to remove it, so I covered it with several layers of dope.

[Yamamaya42]

Turns out that site with the 40kv ss diode is fake, the entire site is nothing but a rip-off.
However, I did find a EDI Solid-Tube R-3DS3 7541 on eBay, a 3DS3 is not compatible, but as a last resort, the SS R-3DS3 can be made to work, as it's well within spec.

[John Adams]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

Turns out that site with the 40kv ss diode is fake, the entire site is nothing but a rip-off.
However, I did find a EDI Solid-Tube R-3DS3 7541 on eBay, a 3DS3 is not compatible, but as a last resort, the SS R-3DS3 can be made to work, as it's well within spec.

Here is the link to what could be a useful site to check out a website.
My search was for kalesafe.com and you can see the results. There is a search feature at the top. https://www.scam-detector.com/valida...fe-com-review/

[Yamamaya42]

EDI Solid-Tube R-3DS3 7541 ordered

HV wire will be here tomorrow, FBT coated VERY well with dope and cured, and ready for new wire, I doubt it can arc any more.

one way or another it WILL work.

[Yamamaya42]

As Tom Petty once said, “the waiting is the hardest part”

Amazon SHOULD bring the new HV wire today, with which I hope to re-wind the newly doped FBT and try again with the 3A3C.

Did a resistance check on it.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/fbt112.jpg
It all mostly agreed with what SAMS says except fot the one 4.7 ohm reading which was about 10, but I have seen this before, where what they had listed did not match real time with what was in the sets and there was nothing wrong.
Especially when there are 2 different FBTs listed in the SAMS, Hoffman # 033-013000 & 033-012700
both replaced by merit hvo-234c / stancor ho-601c / triad d-304.

And if worst comes to worst and this CRT is no good, ETF does have at least 1 or more that will fit in this thing, :O

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

As Tom Petty once said, “the waiting is the hardest part”

Amazon SHOULD bring the new HV wire today, with which I hope to re-wind the newly doped FBT and try again with the 3A3C.

Did a resistance check on it.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/fbt112.jpg
It all mostly agreed with what SAMS says except fot the one 4.7 ohm reading which was about 10, but I have seen this before, where what they had listed did not match real time with what was in the sets and there was nothing wrong.
Especially when there are 2 different FBTs listed in the SAMS, Hoffman # 033-013000 & 033-012700
both replaced by merit hvo-234c / stancor ho-601c / triad d-304.

And if worst comes to worst and this CRT is no good, ETF does have at least 1 or more that will fit in this thing, :O

The only Hoffman set I worked on, a 23" CTC15 clone. The flyback Sams specified was the wrong one. It was for a 70deg round tube set. It didn't work properly!
A friend worked for a Muntz dealer, so I ordered a flyback from him. Worked great and it was a lot cheaper!
That was about 50 years ago.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

The only Hoffman set I worked on, a 23" CTC15 clone. The flyback Sams specified was the wrong one. It was for a 70deg round tube set. It didn't work properly!
A friend worked for a Muntz dealer, so I ordered a flyback from him. Worked great and it was a lot cheaper!
That was about 50 years ago.

OK...
this just got a bit stranger.
the replacement FBTs listed in SAMS are FOR the RCA CTC-15 .
was the same one used in the 17?
this is odd
its not SAMS that makes the subs, but merit/stancor/triad right?

[Electronic M]

The CTC-15 was a roundy the CTC-17 was a rectangular...The deflection angles are different between the two so RCA definitely used different flybacks in the 2 chassis, and I have a hard time buying that Hoffman could have made a roundy fly work in a rectangular set.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

The CTC-15 was a roundy the CTC-17 was a rectangular...The deflection angles are different between the two so RCA definitely used different flybacks in the 2 chassis, and I have a hard time buying that Hoffman could have made a roundy fly work in a rectangular set.

Then the list in SAMS must be wrong, just as DJ ran into 50 years ago!

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

Then the list in SAMS must be wrong, just as DJ ran into 50 years ago!

The Sams was wrong!

[Yamamaya42]

Redone FBT ready to go back in!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0719221857.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xos2MnVxe-c
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0719222043a.jpg

and there is color! dirty! o
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0719222046.jpg

the repair to the broken pin DID work!

the video is sloppy, prob some weak tubes, many orig ones still in there, but now I know all I need to to move on to the restoration stage,

[Yamamaya42]

https://youtu.be/mCyPldcQ9as

first video

[Jeffhs]

I have a question in regard to your Hoffman Colorcaster TV. I looked at the photo of the service adjustments for this set (of which there must have been twenty or more, as I would expect in a 1956 color TV) and saw, to my surprise, a brightness control. My question is this: Why would the brightness control be located on a control panel which has mostly service adjustments, which of course are not to be touched by anyone other than a qualified service technician? Or was there another brightness control wired in parallel with it, the second control being the user brightness adjustment?

In any case, I would think two brightness controls would be one too many for any TV, color or b&w. I could understand this if the second brightness control has a definite function, such as setting the maximum range of the user's control, but otherwise I am at a complete loss to explain this. Most later color sets (late 1960s on) had only one brightness control. Was there something about 1950s color televisions which actually required the sets to have two brightness controls, or was the second control used, as I said, to limit the range of the user's brightness control?

Thank you for any and all information on this, as this TV is the first one I have ever seen (I have never seen a Hoffman TV in person) with a brightness control on a panel normally reserved for service adjustments. I also saw a few other controls on this TV's service control panel which are ordinarily service adjustments only, again to be adjusted only by qualified service technicians. Were these controls wired in such a way as to limit the range of the existing controls? If so, as I said, this is overkill of the worst sort, as most later color sets only had one control for most service adjustments. These controls almost certainly would not be noticed (and should not have been) by the average color TV set owner, anyway, as many color TVs of the '50s and even into the early 1960s had a warning label pasted somewhere on the inside of the TV cabinet, to the effect that service adjustments, tubes and other parts of the set must not be touched except by a qualified TV service technician.