![]() |
|
#76
|
|||
|
|||
|
Nice bit of troubleshooting!
I stand in awe at the quality of your overall workmanship sir.
|
|
#77
|
|||
|
|||
|
Phil was the one that tripped my mind to use those charts in Sams. Thank you for the kind words.
|
|
#78
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
I like the yellow caps for old set restorations. They're so small, compared to the originals and the leads are usually long enough to do a neat job. |
|
#79
|
|||
|
|||
|
Dieseljeep,
Could be. Their leads are very thin. Agree on the yellow caps! I pulled the entire sub-assembly from the chassis. It was a lot easier to work on. I finished the audio section of V7, V8, and V9. Cleaned up the entire area too. On to the real IF section on the other side of the sub-assembly.
|
|
#80
|
|||
|
|||
| Audiokarma |
|
#81
|
||||
|
||||
|
Those sure are some mighty small ceramic caps. Can you notice any change in alignment after doing that work?
|
|
#82
|
|||
|
|||
|
I used the same caps for my AMC 116T and didn't see any change. I'll let you know how these work out. They are the correct value, and 630 volt caps, and COG.
|
|
#83
|
|||
|
|||
|
It looks like you cleaned all the old solder and lead bits from the terminal strips and tube socket terminals.
I used to have patience like that, but you still have me beat. The kits I built, look like your work. That's why they still work well 52-55 years later. Mostly Knight-Kits and a few Heaths. |
|
#84
|
|||
|
|||
|
Yeah, I clean up all the terminals where I can. Once "cleared out", I clean them with alcohol, then it is as if I were assembling the TV for the first time.
I'm all done replacing the caps and all the resistors except one in the tuner. It was buried and I didn't want to dig that deep into the tuner. The rest of the tuner's resistors, mica caps, and the sole dual disc cap were replaced. I did a quickee test with the 14" CRT. Everything works. Excuse the quality of the picture that's because the CRT was just set in the tv and hooked up. The yoke and the focus coil weren't adjusted yet, that will come later when the final assembly takes place. Now on to finishing cleaning up the chassis and bits to ready them for final assembly.
|
|
#85
|
|||
|
|||
|
I remembered that I needed to change out the resisitors in the deflection yoke.
There are 3 of them. 1 is a 1K and the other 2 are 560 ohms. The 1K measured out to 1030 Ohms, while the other 2 measured out to 670 Ohms and 736 Ohms. They were replaced with 1W 5% resistors. I wish I could have found a 47pf 1500 volt cap to replace the one in the yoke. ![]()
|
| Audiokarma |
|
#86
|
|||
|
|||
|
I finished the chassis and assembled it today. there are a few details that have to be worked out, but basically its done. It's playing as I type to "burn it in". Tomorrow I'll hook up my Eico 369 and BK O'scope to start the alignment. Tonight I'll attach my NTSC pattern generator and see if I can get the picture squared up.
Then on to the cabinet. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
|
#87
|
|||
|
|||
|
#88
|
||||
|
||||
|
You mentioned it was out of focus earlier in the thread. It could simply be the combination of a tired electron gun and it being over driven to achieve what seems like normal brightness and contrast. The further the beam deviates from center the harder it is to maintain focus. You may be able to tweak the ion trap and get the outer edges a little better, at the expense of less focus in the center.
I kind of miss the plated chassis. I thought it looked really nice after you cleaned it up, not that it looks bad now, I guess I just prefer the plated look.
|
|
#89
|
||||
|
||||
|
You also might want to double check that the dag contact spring is making good ground contact through the painted chassis.
|
|
#90
|
||||
|
||||
|
Yes, the position of the focus coil could effect it. Also your ion trap magnet looks to be too far back on the neck. Usually they are an inch or more away from the base rather than right up against it.
|
| Audiokarma |
![]() |
|
|