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#92
11-04-2014, 10:16 AM
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well even though the hv dont regulate properly it still will produce a decent picture so if i could get to the bottom of where the lines are coming from if its not hv related then ill just leave it as it is.
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#93
11-04-2014, 12:43 PM
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im just guessing here but maybe the hv is infact ok but rather the overdriving or whatever i should call it maybe pulling the hv down beyond what it can handle. the bias cannot be raised at all the lines get worse and the screen blooms. if i set the contrast to make a sharp picture the lines seem to go away but just move the contrast a little bit and the lines are back. so with the bias all but off and the 3 color drives counter and with a b@w picture there is some lines visable but bearly. i really dont know im just grabbing as this point.
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#94
11-06-2014, 09:23 AM
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I have been re-reading this entire thread, and have a few things to look at.
You mentioned repairing mistakes in the focus rectifier circuit, and that you replaced the flyback.... I would suggest that you revisit all the work done on these two items to be extra sure there are no mistakes made in the wiring. The flyback was it an original....? Are you absolutely sure the correct wires are put in the correct pins...? A mistake in the parts near or connected to the damper could possibly be giving you bad signals going to the blanking circuit. Incorrect pins could also be interfering with the field strength in the flyback during any part of the charge discharge cycle.... If the flyback was a replacement, or even if it was from a parts set, you should check over each connection with ohm meter, or replacement part notes to be sure the same pin numbers correspond on both new and old part. If you have checked the work around the two areas you previously worked and the wiring is correct, then carefully check the parts and voltages near the items in yellow on the attachment. And replace the caps in green.... If you have already replaced the caps, and found good continuity or if you have the entire sams with resistance checks for the coils, then you need to check those caps to be sure they are correct values and voltage ratings. .
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Yes you can call me "Squirrel boy" Last edited by Username1; 11-06-2014 at 09:28 AM.
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#95
11-06-2014, 05:39 PM
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well this is what i have as of now , i did resistance checks of the tubes on the chroma board and the vert board compared to the sams some are alittle high but not much however i would say they are all very good or close. but v21 and v23 are 6gy6 tubes and pin1 on both should be 1.9 ohms but i am getting around 150 ohms and it changes with turning the color knob on the front of the set, there im lost. also pin 7 on v21 should be 1.9 ohms i get 2.0, so thats ok v23 it should be 14 ohms im getting .9 ohms so i am really lost but this could be the problem with the drive lines and down the line it may even fix the hv issues as well. it almost seems that something may be shorted for that ohms reading to be so high and to get a varying reading when raising and lowering the color control. the resistance page of the sams dont state anything about the color control changing anything.
Last edited by timmy; 11-07-2014 at 06:24 AM.
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#96
11-06-2014, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Last edited by timmy; 11-06-2014 at 07:07 PM.
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#97
11-07-2014, 10:20 AM
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i have what looks just like a ceramic disc cap but its a 6mmf npo 5% i have to replace is there any other i could use in place of that. and what do i look for there is pf, nf, .0 .00 and so on dont know what that means exactly.
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#100
11-07-2014, 10:48 AM
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oh. BTW sometimes the SAMs resistance charts are just wrong. missing decimals or just wrong, and also sometimes they resistance numbers are influenced by pot settings. This should be noted but not always done.
Lastly they are only a guide. if something does not match up, its best to review the schematic and see if the measurements can determined by looking there. in your case the 14ohms does not make since prob should read 1.4 ohms. You can see this if you look at the schematic and trace the pins to the ground. again if this is the area you are looking into, I would assume the set is not demodulating the color signal so you are getting BW only?
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#101
11-07-2014, 11:00 AM
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yes i figured as much because i have found mistakes in the sams. and yes its the silvertone still, i think ill just try to get that 6mmf cap and maybe put it back together and maybe assume the crt is bad.
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#104
11-07-2014, 11:36 AM
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Go to google and search "how to read capacitor values" you will find many links.
http://www.wikihow.com/Read-a-Capacitor This is just one, there are many... uf 'u' is a multiplier, pf 'p' is a multiplier.... your 6pf cap usually will not have any zero's. the 0.6pf would be wrong, and 6.0pf is usually not written. Anything above 100 as in 600pf for example 6,000pf is usually not written as it cancels out the 'p' multiplier.... (not really cancel, just not written) refer to the schematic for voltage rating, as you stated, my schematic is a generic ctc-12 off the internet. 600v if ceramic is safe.... be careful about removing just one leg of ceramic caps in a pc board, especially old ones, they are sometimes brittle, and not polarized, so you don't have to worry about how to put them back.... On that page I referenced, down at the tips area, 6,000pf there is a convention for writing values, possibly derived from scientific notation, or international scientific standards for writing values. This is why you may or may not see a value written in a specific way... .
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Yes you can call me "Squirrel boy" Last edited by Username1; 11-07-2014 at 11:53 AM.
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