RCA 630TS scored

[bandersen]

I encountered another difference this evening - R177 is 2700 in my set but 1800 on the Rider's schematic. However, the RCA service info that came with the set shows 2700. I also notice at the bottom of the page Rider's has W93530-20 while the RCA just has W93530. Both do show 150K for R150 though.


I've have been making progress in spite of the schematic confusion and have this section just about done. I'm surprised at all the cap brands - Aerovox, Cornel Dubilier (C-D), Sprague, Micamold, etc.
No way that electrolytic in the middle could be reformed since it's blown a gasket.


I assumed the cardboard cover was held on by a blob of tar and tried heating it. No luck so eventually I just torn it off and discovered some sort of varnish was used.
Oh well. I'll cut it open, restuff and fabricated a new tube from something.

[bandersen]

I cut the can open, unrolled the insides and found evidence of a short.
I wonder if that's why the main voltage divider power resistor was open

[bandersen]

I managed to extracate the two caps under the chassis without too much trouble.


Most of the caps have shown signs of leakage externally and shorts internally.

[miniman82]

I don't need reminding why it's not a good idea to use old dried out caps, but others might....

[bandersen]

I managed to get them all opened up and installed new caps. Plenty of room with these "skinny" Nichicons.
Next, I'll re-crimp the bases and start the unpleasant task of reinstalling them correctly!

[Geist]

Hi All;
Bob, it makes me wonder, if maybe some one had tried to plug in the set, at a later time, and that caused the Cap-shorts and the Burned out Resistor-dividers.. Just a thought.. Glad you are making good progress.. It looks good..
THANK YOU Marty

[ChrisW6ATV]

Bob-

Nice work on those capacitors. I gave up on unsoldering the ones that were grounded to the chassis on my 8TS30, because I could not get enough heat on the terminals, even with a 140-watt gun. How did you do it?

[bandersen]

I used my Weller WES51 iron with temperature controlled tip. It will pump more current into the tip to try to keep the temp up. Even so, it was just barely up to the task on some lugs. Another 10 watts or so and it'd be perfect.

I find guns to be nearly useless because the tips cool down rapidly. That includes my Weller 260 watt gun.

The biggest challenge so far in this set is actually the wiring. It appears to be waxed cloth over a tar like substance. That tar has gone rock hard over the years and is very brittle. I can make the wires pliable by gently warming them with a heat gun but as soon as they cool down, they're rock hard again. Too much heat and the tar oozes out.

[bandersen]

I've been using Sprague "orange drops" when they'll fit. Otherwise axial Mallory caps.


I've made a couple concessions to modern components so far.

One is this 5K, 5W resistor which had already been replaced with a big dogbone. The modern replacement is so small and brown it's hardly noticeable anyway.


The other are the AC line bypass caps. I expect these old Micamolds would make a nice bang if I tried to use them.


I've reached about the halfway point

[Reece]

Re: different branded caps: the set was postwar and the manufacturers were cranking out radios and televisions as fast as they could after the war's shutdown of consumer electronics: I suspect they bought parts from wherever they could find them, as also seen in sets using a mix of styles of tubes.

[bandersen]

That makes sense. I've also found some resistors in parallel to get the right value.

Might as well polish before installing. No more yellowy nicotine tinge.


Here's another puzzler. This 150K resistor isn't shown in the RCA or Riders service info.


I did find it in the Sams but it says for 630TCS (console) version only

[bandersen]

Tight quarters down in this area so I decided to pull the control out.
I found a 330K that read 3.3M lurking down in there,

[vts1134]

That is a tricky area on these sets, especially when you're restuffing and have to put those big caps back into the set. I wish I had thought of removing the control when I was working on mine.

[bandersen]

It definitely helps, but it's still tricky.

I've taken a break from under the chassis to finish cleaning the topside.


I discovered this trap slug had broken loose and gives me a chance to see what's inside. So glad it didn't get lost or damaged!

[bigaudioal]

Bob, how do you recommend repairing that broken trap slug? I have a broken one on my Crosley too. In fact, think it's the exact same one that's broken too.