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  #121  
Old 12-17-2016, 09:21 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Between the 6 Instruction Sheets and the IF Strip Instruction Sheet, there are 280 individual steps!

103 have been completed.
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  #122  
Old 12-17-2016, 10:57 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crist Rigott View Post
Between the 6 Instruction Sheets and the IF Strip Instruction Sheet, there are 280 individual steps!

103 have been completed.
A slightly related question?
Were did you source your replacement parts, all from Radio Daze? I really like the resistors you're using. The caps are similar to the ones from Jim's Antique Radios, they seem alright!
BTW, I wrap and crimp the component leads very much the same way you do before soldering. I was taught, "Mechanically and Electrically Secure".
A buddy asked, "Why do you do it that way, it's overkill". IF it's soldered properly, you don't have to do that.
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  #123  
Old 12-17-2016, 12:19 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
A slightly related question?
Were did you source your replacement parts, all from Radio Daze? I really like the resistors you're using. The caps are similar to the ones from Jim's Antique Radios, they seem alright!
BTW, I wrap and crimp the component leads very much the same way you do before soldering. I was taught, "Mechanically and Electrically Secure".
A buddy asked, "Why do you do it that way, it's overkill". IF it's soldered properly, you don't have to do that.
I get my parts from Just Radios. Both caps and resistors. Good stuff. Sometimes I get caps from Sals. Good stuff too. I like using the 1W resistors because the leads are thicker and stronger than the 1/2W ones. I like Just Radios because I can get film caps, mica caps, e-caps, resistors, spaghetti tubing, heat shrink tubing all in one stop. I get some stuff like Nichicon e-caps, chassis mount resistors from Digikey

On the lead wrapping stuff. That's the way I've always done it. I have a background in the Avionics installation and repair and we always wrap the lead or wire for that extra security. It is overkill on these TV's but I think wrapping the lead also holds it in place till the other components are attached or till it's soldered.
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  #124  
Old 12-17-2016, 07:15 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I finished step 4 (Vertical Oscillator & Output). This step had 39 steps. Things went very well. I lengthened 1 wire by 2 inches. My .0047uf caps did not come in today so I couldn't install C29.

One thing I noticed is that the pre-made CRT connector and yoke wires are too long. Tonight I'll see how long they are and maybe adjust their length. I'll let you know what I found.

Here is an overall picture after step 4.



Followed by some close ups of the area.





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  #125  
Old 12-17-2016, 08:15 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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OK, first up is the CRT wiring length.

Here is how long it is as of right now.


Here I am measuring 6 inches to shorten the harness by.


Here is the harness pushed into the chassis 6 inches.



It looks like I can shorten the harness by 6 inches and still have plenty of slack. Comments anybody?
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  #126  
Old 12-17-2016, 08:23 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Next up is the yoke harness.

Here is a picture that shows how long it as of right now.


Here I am measuring 6 inches to shorten the harness by.


And the harness pushed into the chassis 6 inches.


So what do you think?
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  #127  
Old 12-17-2016, 08:30 PM
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Man, with a beautiful chassis like that you'd better sign that chassis when you are done - it's "art" for sure. Use a paint pen, no wimpy Sharpie....
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  #128  
Old 12-17-2016, 09:05 PM
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If you ever fall in love with an empty cabinet that needs the CRT mounted separate from the chassis the extra lead length could come in handy.
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  #129  
Old 12-17-2016, 09:11 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm View Post
Man, with a beautiful chassis like that you'd better sign that chassis when you are done - it's "art" for sure. Use a paint pen, no wimpy Sharpie....
Yeah, it is nice. Thanks.
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  #130  
Old 12-17-2016, 09:12 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
If you ever fall in love with an empty cabinet that needs the CRT mounted separate from the chassis the extra lead length could come in handy.
That's right, I forgot about that option. Thanks.
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  #131  
Old 12-17-2016, 09:26 PM
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Enjoying this thread. Very cool! Good luck with your build.
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  #132  
Old 12-17-2016, 09:46 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Originally Posted by Blast View Post
Enjoying this thread. Very cool! Good luck with your build.
I'm glad you're following along. That's why so many pictures and details.

Thanks.
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  #133  
Old 12-17-2016, 09:48 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Tom got me thinking about keeping the long wires. So I came up with this solution:



Now, my big question is having both the CRT and yoke wires with a coil in them will that affect the quality of the picture? Anybody know?

Thanks.
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  #134  
Old 12-18-2016, 01:05 AM
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Probably not - no significant inductance or capacitance generated - if it was color, perhaps, but B/W, no. Think about Predictas - CRT/Yoke had some pretty long interconnect cables......
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  #135  
Old 12-18-2016, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm View Post
Man, with a beautiful chassis like that you'd better sign that chassis when you are done - it's "art" for sure. Use a paint pen, no wimpy Sharpie....
That makes me think, Heathkit TVs should have had "builder's signature" etched into the chassis instead of a signature line on the build sticker...
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