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-   -   CTC-4 Director 21 (http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=267400)

SwizzyMan 08-14-2017 03:34 PM

I have been working on solving a ghosting issue in the picture. Checking resistors on the IF board only revealed 2 out of tolerance resistors. Two 68 ohms coming off the cathode of the 6az8 IF tubes then to ground. Next thing I suspected was the 1n60, but it tests fine on the diode test. Should I still replace it? I need to check around the video amp tubes now.

SwizzyMan 08-14-2017 04:33 PM

Found an open inductor on the video out tube. L72 on sams 180 Microhenry 9.5ohm. Is this an appropriate replacement? http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...o%2f1lu29zY%3d

old_tv_nut 08-14-2017 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SwizzyMan (Post 3188108)
Found an open inductor on the video out tube. L72 on sams 180 Microhenry 9.5ohm. Is this an appropriate replacement? http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...o%2f1lu29zY%3d

Looks like it should work fine.

old_tv_nut 08-14-2017 07:35 PM

Did you check L71 and R68 also?

Edit: also R69, L70, and the contrast control - these are all things that load the input or output of the delay line and need to match the impedance properly to prevent echos.

SwizzyMan 08-14-2017 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut (Post 3188114)
Did you check L71 and R68 also?

Edit: also R69, L70, and the contrast control - these are all things that load the input or output of the delay line and need to match the impedance properly to prevent echos.

Everything tests fine except for maybe the contrast control. It reads 21ohms at full clockwise and about 1k at full counter-clockwise. I dont think that is right.

old_tv_nut 08-14-2017 09:08 PM

You didn't say which terminals of the contrast you are connected to, but if you don't disconnect one end, you will read a bunch of other things in parallel, particularly the delay line and its 1.2K input resistor. So, the 1K reading is probably normal or close to it for an in-circuit reading. I would just wait to see what the replacement coil does for your ghosting, rather than disconnecting things unnecessarily.

SwizzyMan 08-15-2017 04:30 PM

Just ordered new coils and resistors. Found another coil that was bad L94 that read about 1 meg when it should be 27 ohm.

timmy 08-15-2017 05:34 PM

Wow that set is going to be better then originally new once it's done, lots of troubleshooting. Looking good keep at it . :thmbsp:

old_coot88 08-15-2017 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SwizzyMan (Post 3188106)
I have been working on solving a ghosting issue in the picture.

By ghosting, do you mean ringing (parasitic amplitude ripples tagging after fine detail in the pic)? If so, try subbing the last IF tube if you haven't already. It can cause ringing even if it tests good on a tester.

SwizzyMan 08-15-2017 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old_coot88 (Post 3188164)
By ghosting, do you mean ringing (parasitic amplitude ripples tagging after fine detail in the pic)? If so, try subbing the last IF tube if you haven't already. It can cause ringing even if it tests good on a tester.

Yes. I believe I did try subbing that tube with no difference.

miniman82 08-18-2017 06:24 PM

This can also be caused be improper termination of the delay line, check all parts for value on either end of it.

SwizzyMan 08-19-2017 04:11 PM

2 Attachment(s)
So adding the 180uh choke in place of the open one (L72) makes the ghosting WORSE! Ugh! Something else has to be causing this then. Left photo is with no coil, right is with coil attached in circuit.

old_tv_nut 08-19-2017 07:12 PM

Suggestions:

1) make sure the value isn't off by a decimal place or something
2) check for open resistor in parallel with either L72 and/or L71

If it's not those, check all other parallel L-R combos in the video amp chain.

SwizzyMan 08-19-2017 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut (Post 3188375)
Suggestions:

1) make sure the value isn't off by a decimal place or something
2) check for open resistor in parallel with either L72 and/or L71

If it's not those, check all other parallel L-R combos in the video amp chain.

Value is fine. Checked all coils and resistors that may be in parallel with them and they all check fine except for a coil on the B-Y amp that reads 1.2 meg, but I dont think that one really matters for my current problem. I hope its not the delay line causing this!

old_tv_nut 08-19-2017 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SwizzyMan (Post 3188378)
Value is fine. Checked all coils and resistors that may be in parallel with them and they all check fine except for a coil on the B-Y amp that reads 1.2 meg, but I dont think that one really matters for my current problem. I hope its not the delay line causing this!

Are these components on a PC bOard? Maybe a bad solder joint? Try bridging a resistor directly across the coil?

SwizzyMan 08-19-2017 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut (Post 3188379)
Are these components on a PC bOard? Maybe a bad solder joint? Try bridging a resistor directly across the coil?

All point to point wired. Resistor did nothing. I think I will just get the color set up and worry about this later, maybe I'll think of something while Im doing that.

SwizzyMan 08-19-2017 09:11 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Now on to the color for now. Everything seems to be fine except for colors with magenta. As you can see the magenta bar fades off into red which I attribute to bad phasing in the G-Y(?) channel. I just am not sure how I would fix it (Phasing adjustment?).

old_tv_nut 08-19-2017 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SwizzyMan (Post 3188382)
Now on to the color for now. Everything seems to be fine except for colors with magenta. As you can see the magenta bar fades off into red which I attribute to bad phasing in the G-Y(?) channel. I just am not sure how I would fix it (Phasing adjustment?).

it really would help to put a scope on the R-Y, G-Y, and B-Y outputs to see which ones are smeary. It may be the B-Y amp. If all are smeary, it may be a chroma alignment or even IF alignment problem. How is it affected by fine tuning?

SwizzyMan 08-19-2017 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut (Post 3188384)
it really would help to put a scope on the R-Y, G-Y, and B-Y outputs to see which ones are smeary. It may be the B-Y amp. If all are smeary, it may be a chroma alignment or even IF alignment problem. How is it affected by fine tuning?

Doesnt seem to be affected by fine tuning at all.

old_tv_nut 08-19-2017 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SwizzyMan (Post 3188385)
Doesnt seem to be affected by fine tuning at all.

Then you can cross IF alignment off the list.

SwizzyMan 08-19-2017 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut (Post 3188386)
Then you can cross IF alignment off the list.

Thank god. I will have to hook up the scope tomorrow.

SwizzyMan 08-20-2017 09:29 AM

Using the scope proved inconclusive, I couldnt get the scope to lock on to any trace coming from the demod tubes. The trace wasnt stable enough to get any pictures of it without it being cut off. Hmm, should I just try a color set up per the manuals instructions?

Penthode 08-20-2017 01:25 PM

Interesting the worst smear is between magenta and green. This color transition is the greatest phase swing. This suggests that the chroma channel response is bad.

The chroma response of the later (CTC4 on) sets is dependent upon a good complementary video IF and chroma channel response.

old_tv_nut 08-20-2017 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Penthode (Post 3188405)
Interesting the worst smear is between magenta and green. This color transition is the greatest phase swing. This suggests that the chroma channel response is bad.

The chroma response of the later (CTC4 on) sets is dependent upon a good complementary video IF and chroma channel response.

Second this, but seeing it at both demodulators would confirm it.

SwizzyMan, what kind of scope do you have? If it is capable of syncing on a separate signal from the one you are viewing, it's good to know how to do that for future reference. You could sync on the luma, the sync separator stage, or just by putting a probe somewhat near the flyback (not too close!), and then look at whatever you wanted with the other input.

SwizzyMan 08-20-2017 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut (Post 3188413)
Second this, but seeing it at both demodulators would confirm it.

SwizzyMan, what kind of scope do you have? If it is capable of syncing on a separate signal from the one you are viewing, it's good to know how to do that for future reference. You could sync on the luma, the sync separator stage, or just by putting a probe somewhat near the flyback (not too close!), and then look at whatever you wanted with the other input.

Its a tektronix TAS 220. 20 mhz analog scope, not the greatest but it normally works.

old_tv_nut 08-20-2017 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SwizzyMan (Post 3188418)
Its a tektronix TAS 220. 20 mhz analog scope, not the greatest but it normally works.

Nice little scope - you can trigger on channel 2 and poke around with channel 1.

SwizzyMan 08-21-2017 07:41 PM

Can't seem to get the scope to trigger. I really need to look for a better one here soon anyway. I'll keep messing with it, maybe I can get it to trigger.

Bill R 08-21-2017 07:58 PM

What I see is video ringing in the earlier picture. Looks like you were on the right track with the peaking coils and such in the last video and IF strip. The color problem is what we used to call poor color fit. More often than not it is caused by a problem or poor alignment of the IF strip. I would set up to do an IF sweep alignment and see what the response curves look like. A proper IF alignment may solve both problems. I will bet it is off more than you think.

SwizzyMan 08-22-2017 04:50 PM

Sounds like an alignment is in order this weekend. Unless I can do it with the chassis on the bench with no hv or crt.

miniman82 08-23-2017 07:45 PM

Uh, that's how you're supposed to do it...

Read the alignment instructions, or better yet if you have a B&K 415 use that it'll cut your time in half.

SwizzyMan 08-23-2017 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miniman82 (Post 3188572)
Uh, that's how you're supposed to do it...

Read the alignment instructions, or better yet if you have a B&K 415 use that it'll cut your time in half.

Don't have a 415, but I do believe I have all other necessary equipment. Bear with me here, this is my first IF alignment on a color tv. I've been lucky I haven't had to do any till now.

Phil Nelson 08-24-2017 01:26 PM

I like Bill R's suggestion of setting up to do a video IF alignment and viewing the traces to judge whether alignment is a significant problem. That is, look -- following the procedure in the factory manual -- but don't touch any adjusters the first time around.

If you haven't done the procedure before, that would also give you confidence that your setup is correct and you are viewing valid things on your scope.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html

SwizzyMan 08-24-2017 03:48 PM

The alignment instructions for this seem pretty involved! Don't know if I am quite up to the task yet... Can anyone lead me in the right direction? If push comes to shove I'll just try and build a video preamp.

Phil Nelson 08-24-2017 04:19 PM

Do you have a restored B/W set that works well, that you could use to practice alignment (again, doing the setup and looking at the traces, without changing adjustments)? The setup wouldn't be identical, but maybe that would help you get the hang of things.

I had reached a similar point with my CTC-4 and I took a stab at building a video preamp, which turned out to be not as simple as I hoped. This old thread has more details:

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread...259995&page=23

The last color bars that you posted look pretty good, apart from that one anomaly. What does the TV look like when you view regular content, such as a DVD or cable TV? Sometimes things that look less-than-perfect in test patterns don't interfere much with everyday viewing.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html

SwizzyMan 08-25-2017 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Nelson (Post 3188627)
Do you have a restored B/W set that works well, that you could use to practice alignment (again, doing the setup and looking at the traces, without changing adjustments)? The setup wouldn't be identical, but maybe that would help you get the hang of things.

I had reached a similar point with my CTC-4 and I took a stab at building a video preamp, which turned out to be not as simple as I hoped. This old thread has more details:

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread...259995&page=23

The last color bars that you posted look pretty good, apart from that one anomaly. What does the TV look like when you view regular content, such as a DVD or cable TV? Sometimes things that look less-than-perfect in test patterns don't interfere much with everyday viewing.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Still isnt great while viewing programs. Ghosting and the picture looks overdriven which may be to the fact that it is hooked directly up to the cable box. I don't think IF is an option for me now. If it really needs to be done I guess I can try it.

old_coot88 08-25-2017 06:12 PM

As Phil suggested, practice alignment on a BW set. You don't wanta jump on a full dress Harley without being proficient on a more basic bike. :)

Phil Nelson 08-25-2017 07:18 PM

Regarding a video preamp, I just updated my CTC-4 article with a new section at the end, describing what I built:

https://antiqueradio.org/RCACTC-4ColorTelevision.htm

My preamp didn't work, due in part to a wiring mistake. I fixed that and messed around a little more, and then pushed the whole thing aside because I was burned out on the project.

Anyhow, I have to believe that the basic design, taken from the 1956 article in RCA Broadcast News, will work if someone takes the time to build it correctly.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html

SwizzyMan 08-25-2017 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Nelson (Post 3188678)
Regarding a video preamp, I just updated my CTC-4 article with a new section at the end, describing what I built:

https://antiqueradio.org/RCACTC-4ColorTelevision.htm

My preamp didn't work, due in part to a wiring mistake. I fixed that and messed around a little more, and then pushed the whole thing aside because I was burned out on the project.

Anyhow, I have to believe that the basic design, taken from the 1956 article in RCA Broadcast News, will work if someone takes the time to build it correctly.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Wow, that will definetly be project... Hell, I'd pay someone to build me one.

andy 08-26-2017 11:05 AM

...

SwizzyMan 08-26-2017 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andy (Post 3188722)
Not trying to hijack the thread, but I'm also working on a CTC4 with some similar problems. Possibly we can help each other.

So far, it's been recapped and I've replaced all the out of tolerance resistors I can find. It produces a reasonably good B&W picture, but the chroma is VERY noisy. It looks like the kind of noise you see if the fine tuning is way off, or with heavy RF interference, but the picture looks good with the color turned down. Sound is also good.

I'm not sure what's normal for a CTC4, but I find that I have to set the color control a lot higher than on most other sets. I suspect it could be a problem with the chroma band pass (misalignment or low gain).

I have not checked the alignment yet other than the basic chroma demodulator adjustments. I can do a full alignment if I have to, but this one looks like a very complicated job.

Your set sounds like a carbon copy of mine. Same problems. It's probably a matter of IF alignment.


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