I have been working on solving a ghosting issue in the picture. Checking resistors on the IF board only revealed 2 out of tolerance resistors. Two 68 ohms coming off the cathode of the 6az8 IF tubes then to ground. Next thing I suspected was the 1n60, but it tests fine on the diode test. Should I still replace it? I need to check around the video amp tubes now.
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Found an open inductor on the video out tube. L72 on sams 180 Microhenry 9.5ohm. Is this an appropriate replacement? http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...o%2f1lu29zY%3d
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Did you check L71 and R68 also?
Edit: also R69, L70, and the contrast control - these are all things that load the input or output of the delay line and need to match the impedance properly to prevent echos. |
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You didn't say which terminals of the contrast you are connected to, but if you don't disconnect one end, you will read a bunch of other things in parallel, particularly the delay line and its 1.2K input resistor. So, the 1K reading is probably normal or close to it for an in-circuit reading. I would just wait to see what the replacement coil does for your ghosting, rather than disconnecting things unnecessarily.
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Just ordered new coils and resistors. Found another coil that was bad L94 that read about 1 meg when it should be 27 ohm.
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Wow that set is going to be better then originally new once it's done, lots of troubleshooting. Looking good keep at it . :thmbsp:
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This can also be caused be improper termination of the delay line, check all parts for value on either end of it.
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So adding the 180uh choke in place of the open one (L72) makes the ghosting WORSE! Ugh! Something else has to be causing this then. Left photo is with no coil, right is with coil attached in circuit.
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1) make sure the value isn't off by a decimal place or something 2) check for open resistor in parallel with either L72 and/or L71 If it's not those, check all other parallel L-R combos in the video amp chain. |
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Now on to the color for now. Everything seems to be fine except for colors with magenta. As you can see the magenta bar fades off into red which I attribute to bad phasing in the G-Y(?) channel. I just am not sure how I would fix it (Phasing adjustment?).
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Using the scope proved inconclusive, I couldnt get the scope to lock on to any trace coming from the demod tubes. The trace wasnt stable enough to get any pictures of it without it being cut off. Hmm, should I just try a color set up per the manuals instructions?
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Interesting the worst smear is between magenta and green. This color transition is the greatest phase swing. This suggests that the chroma channel response is bad.
The chroma response of the later (CTC4 on) sets is dependent upon a good complementary video IF and chroma channel response. |
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SwizzyMan, what kind of scope do you have? If it is capable of syncing on a separate signal from the one you are viewing, it's good to know how to do that for future reference. You could sync on the luma, the sync separator stage, or just by putting a probe somewhat near the flyback (not too close!), and then look at whatever you wanted with the other input. |
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Can't seem to get the scope to trigger. I really need to look for a better one here soon anyway. I'll keep messing with it, maybe I can get it to trigger.
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What I see is video ringing in the earlier picture. Looks like you were on the right track with the peaking coils and such in the last video and IF strip. The color problem is what we used to call poor color fit. More often than not it is caused by a problem or poor alignment of the IF strip. I would set up to do an IF sweep alignment and see what the response curves look like. A proper IF alignment may solve both problems. I will bet it is off more than you think.
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Sounds like an alignment is in order this weekend. Unless I can do it with the chassis on the bench with no hv or crt.
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Uh, that's how you're supposed to do it...
Read the alignment instructions, or better yet if you have a B&K 415 use that it'll cut your time in half. |
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I like Bill R's suggestion of setting up to do a video IF alignment and viewing the traces to judge whether alignment is a significant problem. That is, look -- following the procedure in the factory manual -- but don't touch any adjusters the first time around.
If you haven't done the procedure before, that would also give you confidence that your setup is correct and you are viewing valid things on your scope. Phil Nelson Phil's Old Radios https://antiqueradio.org/index.html |
The alignment instructions for this seem pretty involved! Don't know if I am quite up to the task yet... Can anyone lead me in the right direction? If push comes to shove I'll just try and build a video preamp.
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Do you have a restored B/W set that works well, that you could use to practice alignment (again, doing the setup and looking at the traces, without changing adjustments)? The setup wouldn't be identical, but maybe that would help you get the hang of things.
I had reached a similar point with my CTC-4 and I took a stab at building a video preamp, which turned out to be not as simple as I hoped. This old thread has more details: http://www.videokarma.org/showthread...259995&page=23 The last color bars that you posted look pretty good, apart from that one anomaly. What does the TV look like when you view regular content, such as a DVD or cable TV? Sometimes things that look less-than-perfect in test patterns don't interfere much with everyday viewing. Phil Nelson Phil's Old Radios https://antiqueradio.org/index.html |
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As Phil suggested, practice alignment on a BW set. You don't wanta jump on a full dress Harley without being proficient on a more basic bike. :)
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Regarding a video preamp, I just updated my CTC-4 article with a new section at the end, describing what I built:
https://antiqueradio.org/RCACTC-4ColorTelevision.htm My preamp didn't work, due in part to a wiring mistake. I fixed that and messed around a little more, and then pushed the whole thing aside because I was burned out on the project. Anyhow, I have to believe that the basic design, taken from the 1956 article in RCA Broadcast News, will work if someone takes the time to build it correctly. Phil Nelson Phil's Old Radios https://antiqueradio.org/index.html |
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