04-16-2024, 04:04 PM
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NIGHT STALKER
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Join Date: Mar 2024
Location: North America, I think?
Posts: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex KL-1
Excellent!
About the bulb jig... is to be at safe side, due to incertainty about the flyback and PSU, to save potential HOT.
Is really possible to one of these subbed parts or the mica/tape being the culprit, but since is impossible in practice to test a flyback with DMM's, is important to consider the possibility.
Some wires, a bulb and it's socket is all needed.
Anyway, if you are very curious and wants to see it working ASAP:
Make sure to measure the PSU (the +B for HOT) at switch on with DMM already connected, to see if PSU is throwing too much voltage and promptly turning off the TV if is the case. IF the flyback is the culprit, the HOT will shorts again (so, some spare HOT is needed for this).
Late note: in fact, these bulbs are saved a lot of HOT and other parts for technicians using it, including myself.
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I already measured +B. it sits around 133V at the lowest setting but you can crank it up to 140V
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