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  #31  
Old 07-18-2018, 01:30 AM
EdKozk2 EdKozk2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
C-45 in the Sams is going to B-. B- is represented by the taper horizontal line symbol. Chassis is represented by the symbol with diagonal lines I circled at the top.

Your right Bob, I didn't catch the top symbol you circled for ground, Sams' had their own notation. With the correction you noted, then leaves some of the filament bypass caps in the set incorrectly grounded. I'm using the Wallaces' Motorola book which show C-18,24,27,28,33,79 and 80 to chassis ground. I used sams folder 71-12 to cross check. Zsuttle should probably use the riders schematic from the ETF. It would probably be more accurate.
Ed
I did some more checking today, it seems the ETF Riders schematic for the TS-4J is for the early version. I added a picture of the schematic for the late version power and filament supply.
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Last edited by EdKozk2; 07-18-2018 at 07:03 PM. Reason: More info
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  #32  
Old 07-18-2018, 07:14 PM
EdKozk2 EdKozk2 is offline
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Added a schematic to the previous post.
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  #33  
Old 07-19-2018, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
Definitely do not connect anything to the chassis.




Ah, that's weird. What caps do you mean exactly? There are two electrolytics in the audio circuit and neither goes to B++.

If you mean the 20uF cathode bypass on the audio output tube, it should only have about 9 volts across it. Perhaps that 25L6 has a short or is miss wired ?

The other is a 10uF in the FM ratio detector that should only have a few volts across it as well.
Ah, my mistake, I glanced at the A and assumed it was from the power supply when I was looking things over.


Quote:
Originally Posted by EdKozk2 View Post
Your right Bob, I didn't catch the top symbol you circled for ground, Sams' had their own notation. With the correction you noted, then leaves some of the filament bypass caps in the set incorrectly grounded. I'm using the Wallaces' Motorola book which show C-18,24,27,28,33,79 and 80 to chassis ground. I used sams folder 71-12 to cross check. Zsuttle should probably use the riders schematic from the ETF. It would probably be more accurate.
Ed
I did some more checking today, it seems the ETF Riders schematic for the TS-4J is for the early version. I added a picture of the schematic for the late version power and filament supply.
I see that the SAMs has a few mistakes. Where can I get the full schematic from? I'm still tracing out the power supply using the new schematics and all. Also, just wondering what's the difference between the Late and Early versions?
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Last edited by Zsuttle; 07-19-2018 at 11:26 AM.
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  #34  
Old 07-19-2018, 02:21 PM
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You can download Motorola service info from the Early TV Foundation here: http://www.earlytelevision.org/tv_sc..._motorola.html

I belivebe the only mistake with the Sams is showing some of the filament bypass caps going to B- when they should be the chassis.

They changed the ballast tube and the contrast control circuit from the early to late TS-4J. There may be other very minor differences. The power supply circuit is the same.
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  #35  
Old 07-20-2018, 11:41 PM
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Alright, I've gone over the schematic with a fine tooth comb and determined that every component is in its proper place. (I'll give it to Motorola to make things difficult) Both diodes were installed correctly and the same with all of the caps. Any advice?
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  #36  
Old 07-21-2018, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Zsuttle View Post
Alright, I've gone over the schematic with a fine tooth comb and determined that every component is in its proper place. (I'll give it to Motorola to make things difficult) Both diodes were installed correctly and the same with all of the caps. Any advice?
If all you are saying that diodes and caps are correctly installed then it may be a good idea to trace the ac to find out if any part of the ac was moved in the filiment string to any of the b+ and or b++ by accident or simply a mistake. The only place in the DC circuit that will have ac would be on one side of the diodes to change ac to DC .
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  #37  
Old 07-21-2018, 10:18 AM
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Another thing to beware is heater to cathode shorts...
Also, you are sure your diodes are installed correctly, right?... May want to double check with a DMM in DC volts mode connected between B++ and B- during power up...
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  #38  
Old 07-21-2018, 03:03 PM
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It may also be worth checking to chassis ground because who knows what was done to the chassis already and what may have been bad or shorted out already like possibly the filiment caps to ground or maybe a carbonized .470 resistor to chassis. It is a stretch but being the problem is becoming a headache, why not.
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  #39  
Old 07-29-2018, 04:14 PM
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Well I can definitely confirm that some of the caps going to chassis have shorted. Curious, because on my meter they still show the proper capacitance, however the resistance is just a few ohms. I think this could be the issue causing the diodes to blow. Still on vacation, once I return Iíll be able to tell if thatís been the only problem.

Cheers,
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  #40  
Old 07-29-2018, 04:46 PM
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You have to lift one leg of the capacitor befor you check capacitance or ohms.
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  #41  
Old 07-29-2018, 05:20 PM
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You have to lift one leg of the capacitor befor you check capacitance or ohms.
Yeah, Iíve made a habit of doing that or completely removing components to test them
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