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-   Early Color Television (http://www.videokarma.org/forumdisplay.php?f=36)
-   -   One For the Scrapbook (http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=254574)

Jeffhs 06-08-2012 11:40 AM

What happened to your TV was a shame. I also like these sets; never owned one, but I knew a kid who lived on the next street over from me in my hometown whose family had a 3-way RCA console similar to yours. In fact, when I saw the front control panel on yours, it reminded me of my friend's folks' set which was also, IIRC, a roundie.

It would be great if you could get your set working again as it once did; in fact, I hope you do, as they don't make televisions (or anything else, for that matter) like that anymore. I'd try to find a junker CTC16X chassis and just do a one-to-one swap -- take out the sabotaged chassis and install the "new" one.

I don't know why anybody would want to destroy a TV like yours (or any other set made by former American quality TV manufacturers such as RCA, Zenith, Magnavox...). If the person who sabotaged your set took the yoke, it may well have been because of the copper in the windings; same for the power transformer and anything else with wire or coils.

old_coot88 06-08-2012 11:44 AM

Pretty sure the yoke from a '15 will work on a '16. Need somebody else to confirm.

rick65 06-08-2012 12:24 PM

Looking back through my RCA catalogues, listed in 1966.

The WAYLAND Mark XI Series HG-759 - RCA Victor's lowest-priced Color TV Home Entertainment Center. Contemporary lowboy cabinet high lighted by richly patterned fabric grills and detailed vertical wood paneling. Selected hardwoods veneers and solids in Autumn Mahogany grain or Natural walnut grain. Same components as HG-765 except sound system includes two 3 1/2" tweeters instead of four. H-31 1/4" W-57 5/8" D-26 7/8"
Available without FM Stereo: Mark XI Series HG-755
I also had noted a retail price of $700.00

marty59 06-08-2012 12:48 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Here's the chassis.....not a loose wire to be found.

miniman82 06-08-2012 01:11 PM

They didn't get the copper out of the flyback! lol

dieseljeep 06-08-2012 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old_coot88 (Post 3038019)
Pretty sure the yoke from a '15 will work on a '16. Need somebody else to confirm.

All the RCA roundie yokes were the same from CTC7 to CTC20. Even the CTC15 clones were all the same.

DavGoodlin 06-08-2012 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miniman82 (Post 3038032)
They didn't get the copper out of the flyback! lol

That fly is probably good too. There is more copper in a set of good jumper cables. What a buncha pea-brains:nono:

Charlie 06-08-2012 02:07 PM

WOW.. look at how clean looking that chassis is!!!!

Charlie 06-08-2012 02:15 PM

Even the flyback looks awesome!! Come on, Marty.... just how bad is the cabinet sides? Can't we work this out? It really is cool looking. i would think we should be able to piece together everything you need to bring it back.

old_coot88 06-08-2012 04:31 PM

Just a reminder to reflow the two ground stakes on the far right end of the chroma board. They exist in one of two states: either already cracked or gonna crack and cause the heaters in the 6GU7s to go out.

hi_volt 06-08-2012 11:17 PM

Restore...restore!!!

:banana::banana:

marty59 06-09-2012 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Nelson (Post 3037975)
Yes, I followed a tip from John Folsom and used silver-filled epoxy to reinforce a weak solder joint to a pin lead at the glass surface of the CRT. The TV was a Capehart-Farnsworth 661-P. Here's the thread:

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=251233

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Phil, thanks for posting that link. The additional comments provide some good information for such repairs. I may try either soldering directly as my original thought or the use of solder wick as a pad and attach my lead to that. Being a filament lead, I need to make sure that connection will handle current flow.

wkand 06-09-2012 06:05 PM

Ctc15
 
Any possibility that the one-off power tranny, yoke, etc, could be used to restore the vandalized chassis? I realize it would be a mountain of work.

marty59 06-13-2012 09:52 AM

I tried unsuccessfully to solder to that filament pin....I believe I have two problems here. The break is below the glass surface so all I have accessable is the tip of the wire. I do have a bit of a cavity to work with.

The second issue is that the glass surrounding that wire tip is acting like a heat sink, preventing me from making a good connection.

I afraid to grind down to expose more wire at the risk of further damage but I don't believe I have much choice :worried:

ChrisW6ATV 06-13-2012 11:04 PM

Since you are able to get a wire in there secure enough to light the filament, maybe just pressing the wire tight and filling with the silver epoxy will be sufficient.


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