I'm back on this again and really need some help. I've been looking for a yoke, and Moyers found a Thordarson Y97 which is supposed to be an exact replacement for mine, Silvertone 80-2-4.

When it arrived today, the instructions said to take out the two 220 ohm resistors in parallel with the 560 ohm resistors to duplicate the original. When I took the cover off the yoke, which is stamped Y97, I only found two 150 ohm resistors.

trying to compare the instructions with my original Sams even got me more confused. My original yoke only has 3 wires going to the socket, while this one has 5.

I've enclosed a scan of the instructions, the yoke section of my Sams, and a pic I took of the replacement yoke.

Thanks for any help.
Doug

Hello Doug, please no panic, the solution to your issue is simpler than you think! :thmbsp:

About the resistors value and the instruction to desolder the two 220 Ohm, then the more logical conclusion I came to is that the original parallel of 220ohm and 560 ohm gives a final value of 157ohm, pretty close to the 150 ohm you found. The best way to fix this problem is to simply discard the 150 ohm in your yoke and solder a couple of 560 ohm ones in their place.

To fix your other problem, first thing to do is to disconnect the orange wire coming from your new yoke, this is not required in your TV. I would simply snip it from the tab inside your new unit and pull the now "dead" wire away. So, now we are at 4 wires instead of the original 5, yikes!! This, again, is very simple to take care of, simply unite the Yellow and black wires and consider it a single wire. Again, me being me, I would make a jumper inside the yoke body and exit from it with our 3 wires.

Please, pay attention to the replacement yoke plug pinout, as drawn, it is wrong! (as an example, the red wire, called pin#7 does in fact go to pin 8 of the plug, so, unless i'm barking up the wrong tree, something is amiss!)

Also, if your new yoke does not have the series RC cell (68pF 3000V + 1000ohms) across half of the horizontal deflection coils, you'll have to transplant it from your old unit.

I hope I was of any help to you, not a pain, unfortunately my english is not too good

Cheers

Giulio

A favorite practice of mine when subbing yokes is to do the initial connections with clip leads so if I have it wrong I can power it off reconfigure the connections and try again before the tube heaters go completely dark...

After I panicked last night, I sat down an reread the instructions and figured it out, but thanks for the help.

Now I have a new issue. I've got the new yoke installed and did a power up. I have no Hi voltage. Checking voltages on the 6CG7 gives good readings on both plates, pin 6 and 1. I don't have any negative voltages on pins 2, 7, 8.
High voltages probe shows nothing on CRT anode, plate of 12AV5, or pin e of Damper.

Good afternoon Doug,

You are missing your negative voltages because the horizontal oscillator is not working, also, your High voltage is missing because of this!
As a quick check, please control the continuity of the 50 Ohm part of coil L22 and that you obtain about 490Kohm between 6CG7's pin 2 and ground. If these 2 tests do not point to a "smoking gun", I'll suggest you some other tests to perform to help straight out your problem.

I really doubt it is the 6CG7 itself, as it is a reliable tube, but did you try a spare tube?

Cheers

Giulio

Hey, the tests were way off, so I replaced C47. Still nothing, so I tried another 6CG7 tube. That brought everything back including HV. Didin't think it would be as simple as a tube!

Thanks for the help.
Doug

When I got this set, the original yoke cover had disintegrated leaving a black powder over the chassis. Also missing was the width sleeve. I found another width sleeve, and I know I need an insulator like fish paper between the sleeve and the yoke.

I just got some fish paper. Do cut the paper the size of the width sleeve and glue them together, or do I encircle the yoke completely with the fish paper?
Thanks

Ok, I've finally got the yoke working right with the width sleeve and yoke cover. However I still have unstable horizontal which has plagued me from the start. I turned the set on tonight for about 30 min, and a new problem arose. The sound became distorted, and a hum bar appeared which started at the bottom of the screen them moved towards the top then started again at the bottom. Tried new tuner tubes, but that had no effect.

here are two pics.

After a hiatus, I'm back on this again. The original CRT was very weak, so I just replaced it. The new CRT allows me the back off the contrast, which makes the horizontal more stable. I gave it a bench test tonight for about 45 min. I had to sync the horizontal when I first turned it on. After awhile, the pic shifted to the left which can be seen in the pic. Also, I have several black vertical bars on the left of the screen. This set has no horiz drive to back off of. Just the horizontal hold coarse and fine slugs. Also some smearing on the right of the screen.