Jackson Bell Vintage Radio repair suggestions?
 

Wow, did not know you guys even existed? I was sent over here from the sister Audiokarma site.

From another post I have talked about all the stuff my dad has stashed on his farm. This is a ~1930 Jackson Bell model 62. Not sure if it is a Swan or Peacock version. Anyway, this belonged to my grandfather and has been sitting unused since my dad last turned it on in the early 40s. I believe the original speaker was a Lansing and this Magnavox may be a replacement? Other than that, it is all original. Tempted to see if I can get it working?

Anyone want to help me take this thing on? I am far from a electrical repair tech but could probably do it if anyone has the patience to walk me through it. I know my Dad (81) would get a kick out of it if I got it working.

They just don’t make them like this anymore!

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...lradio2net.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...llradionet.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...lradio3net.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...lradio4net.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...lradio5net.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...lradio6net.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...lradio8net.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...peaker2net.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...stickernet.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ck/RCA4net.jpg

I feel like an Archeologist!

Welcome to the forum!

This is obviously a TRF (Tuned Radio Frequency) set, not a superhetrodyne.
This means that all amplification before demodulation is done at the carrier
frequency, with tuned circuits coupling the stages. This can be assumed from
the 4-gang (4 sets of plates) tuning capacitor. The first thing is to get
a schematic, identify the missing tubes, etc. Don't ever plug it in until
some checks have been done (if you did, just don't do it again). See you later.

The tube socketss should have the number on them, but, looks to me like two of them are the 80 rectifier, and, a 224 rf tube.
I also didn't see the audio output. Could either be a 42, or, a 45.
Bill Cahill

That's a nice and very desirable radio. Those Jackson-Bell's have a high "cute" factor. The set is in good condition: from what I see, the black base trim could be repainted and the set given a going over with some Goop hand cleaner (the kind WITHOUT pumice) and then some Old English scratch cover.

Magnavox supplied speakers for many manufacturers back then and this one is certainly of the era. I wouldn't suspect it as being a replacement unless there were clues.

Here's the schematic. Click on the "eye" to open it for reading.

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/669/M0009669.htm

NostalgiaAir says "pre 1936" but the tube lineup, TRF design, and the 0 - 100 dial (instead of being marked in kilocycles) dates it to about 1930. The tubes are (4) 24, (1) 45, and (1) 80.

The first thing to do would be to see if the power transformer is still good, because if it isn't, restoration is going to be a lot harder and expensive. Pull all the tubes. See that the fuse in the back is set for the higher voltage per the instruction sticker. The line cord is 80 years old so inspect it carefully for fraying and breaks. Best to replace it. Brown replacement cords with plugs are available at Wally*World. Wire up a "dim bulb tester." This is a set up such that if there's no short in the transformer, the light remains dim but if it goes bright, there's a short. An easy way to make one is to take an old lamp that has a typical cord with two parallel wires. Snip just one of the wires and pull the two pieces out and away from the remaining continuous wire. Strip the ends and connect to a receptacle. Plug the radio in there, the lamp plug into house current, and a 75 watt bulb in the lamp. Turn the radio on and watch the lamp. Should glow dimly. If full normal brilliance, bad news: short.

If no short is evident, leave the tubes out, have the set upended where you can observe the transformer, and plug the set directly into the wall. Watch, listen, sniff, for any fireworks or cooking. If nothing right away, watch for twenty minutes or so. Every now and then unplug the set and feel the transformer. It should only get warm, not so hot you can't touch it. Other checks later.

Thanks a bunch for the information guys! I am in your hands so don't let me blow up the house!

So the bulb test basically will tell me if the transformer is drawing current, and if not, it is shorted? Neat trick!

I am wondering about these filter condensors. There are two wires going to one on the outside of the box near the condensor base and none going to the other. Looks like signs of solder on the other but no wire. Doesn't seem right?

Look in the middle of this picture.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...lradio6net.jpg

I found these pictures on the internet. This is a peacock but uses the same RCA radio design. You can see the wires coming out of the top of the condensors where mine are cut off? I wonder if the two wires connected to the base of the condensors on my radio should connect to the top?

http://www.tubularradio.com/files/pe...front_view.jpg

http://www.tubularradio.com/files/peacock_back_view.jpg

My radio:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...lradio4net.jpg

now I am confused. I found another picture of a radio without the wire coming out of the top of the condensors. Also notice the Magnavox speaker. I guess that may be oem?

http://www.radioatticarchives.com/im...445_Dibble.jpg

and another:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...cture005-1.jpg

also found this cool picture:
http://antiqueradios.com/forums/gall...2_itemId=99266

Magnavox, Lansing, Rola, Utah, and others were common speakers in the early thirties used by many manufacturers. As to the stray wires at the filter caps, you're going to have to trace under the chassis and on the schematic where they go. The filter caps are going to have to be replaced in the circuit. These copper things are early Mershon filter caps, some of the first electrolytics. They hold a borax solution in water. The best thing in your case is to leave them up top for show (take the cardboard tube off the other one unless that's not a Mershon and is a later less photogenic replacement), disconnect them electrically and shine them up with metal polish. Modern filter caps are tiny compared to these so they can be installed under the chassis. Microfarads were expensive to get in 1930 so they used 8mfd. caps, but today you can replace them with 10 mfd. @ 450 volt electrolytics for about a dollar or less apiece. Radio Daze or Just Radios or others are good sources. The other paper caps in the radio need to be replaced, too, and they are cheap.

P.S. Like that picture of the factory!

Kewl old set ! Once you get it running, no reason you can't use it regularly.

That Auctorus blue tube you have doesn't appear to be the right tube.
That tube should be a 224, and, have a grid cap on top for that wire.
Bill Cahill

I'd love to have all those be a u ti ful cathedral radios in that picture!
Bill Cahill

That is the Jackson Bell factory.

That radio is not mine (that has the blue tube).

The Arcturus 80 (Arcturus called it a 180) is the rectifier. The other 24 is hiding behind it. In the 1920's some manufacturers prefixed the tube number with their "own" identifying number, so a 24 was a 224 when made by RCA, or a 324 if sold by Cunningham. Apparently Arcturus used "1." This practice died out in the 1930's. I always liked those blue tubes and so did the public; they didn't work any better but look so cool, and the box art is out of this world...:yes:

http://www.bill01a.com/tubephotos/arct-180.htm

Hey guys, sorry for no update but the wife has to go in for emergency back surgery so I'm a little behind plan on testing the transformer.

But while I'm waiting, what is a good source for buying the 6 tubes for this unit?

First order of business is to get the Mrs. fixed up. I hope everything goes OK with that and she gets relief. My thoughts are with you.

Tubes are generally not the problem with old radios: most of the old sets I get have all the tubes good or maybe one bad. If you have an ohmmeter (Harbor Freight: digital multimeter, about $4.00) put the leads on the fat pins of each tube. If you get continuity, it means the filament is still good, and that usually means the tube is, also. If you get continuity on those, I'd just fill any empty sockets, for now.

As to tube sources, I have generally placed a "wanted" post in the Radio Classified section of Antique Radio Forums and got several good responses, and I have bought from various individuals. Many of our fellow enthusiasts have extensive collections of tubes and sell them at very fair prices as they don't have any overhead to speak of to maintain. You could also post here in the Classifieds, I just have never done that yet.

Thanks for the kind words. Surgery is next week so it is just pain between now and then.

Two of the Sylvania 24A tubes may be good, one has the cap fitting loose, and one tube is missing. I will need at least two 24A (224) tubes and one each for the 280 (80) slot and 245 (45) slot.

I have a tube tester (Hickock 230) and it has a cap wire but it's manual does not have test settings for the 24A or 224 tubes so I will try the ohm meter method.

If the top cap is still connected but loose, some super glue will fix. If the cap is off, scrape the existing wire sticking out all around to make it bright, take a thin copper wire and wrap a couple turns around it, touch it FAST with soldering iron & solder. Being quick avoids breaking the tube. Heat the separated cap so that the hole in the top opens. Glue it back on with the wire sticking out, and solder the wire FAST. Usually can fix them this way.

The 80 will be kind of pricey, and the 45 really so. If it's too much, there are ways to substitute other tubes using an adapter, which is much less money, but not so "pretty."

A really nice 80 with balloon shape is indeed expensive, but late production
80s (5Y3GTs with the correct 4-pin base) were not that expensive a
few years ago, and I guess plenty of people have a few they would let
go for little money. Good luck.

would a 4 pin 5Z3 work as I have one?

No, unless the filament winding in the power transformer is overdesigned.
The 80 has a 2-A filament current, while the 5Z3 needs 3-A, so it would
most likely overload the transformer. You can grab the 4-pin base from
the old 80, add an octal socket with 4 pieces of wire and make an
adapter to use a 5Y3GT. I think this is the best possible thing next
to an actual 80. Good luck.

Dad says he wants to keep the radio stock rather than modify. He says he can listen to another radio...

Since this radio is totally original, I can see his point. Looks cool on the shelf!

Replacement of worn parts is normal in the life of a radio. I don't think anybody
advocated modifying the radio, plugging in a tube substitute is just a cost saving
measure. But it's your dad's radio...

P.S.: if the radio was totally original, it wouldn't be missing tubes. Good night.

That's probably the correct speaker for your Swan. I've seen them with Lansing, Magnavox, Rola and others. They seemed to use what was at hand. They also had a couple different types of chassis as they made the swan for 2 years.
I have one with a Rola speaker and I just finished the chassis a couple weeks back (here's a photo). My cabinet needs work and the speaker needs a recone.


You have a very nice radio. Good luck with the restoration.