Jackson Bell Vintage Radio repair suggestions?

[stoutblock]

Wow, did not know you guys even existed? I was sent over here from the sister Audiokarma site.

From another post I have talked about all the stuff my dad has stashed on his farm. This is a ~1930 Jackson Bell model 62. Not sure if it is a Swan or Peacock version. Anyway, this belonged to my grandfather and has been sitting unused since my dad last turned it on in the early 40s. I believe the original speaker was a Lansing and this Magnavox may be a replacement? Other than that, it is all original. Tempted to see if I can get it working?

Anyone want to help me take this thing on? I am far from a electrical repair tech but could probably do it if anyone has the patience to walk me through it. I know my Dad (81) would get a kick out of it if I got it working.

They just don’t make them like this anymore!





















I feel like an Archeologist!

[electroking]

Welcome to the forum!

This is obviously a TRF (Tuned Radio Frequency) set, not a superhetrodyne.
This means that all amplification before demodulation is done at the carrier
frequency, with tuned circuits coupling the stages. This can be assumed from
the 4-gang (4 sets of plates) tuning capacitor. The first thing is to get
a schematic, identify the missing tubes, etc. Don't ever plug it in until
some checks have been done (if you did, just don't do it again). See you later.

[Bill Cahill]

The tube socketss should have the number on them, but, looks to me like two of them are the 80 rectifier, and, a 224 rf tube.
I also didn't see the audio output. Could either be a 42, or, a 45.
Bill Cahill

[Reece]

That's a nice and very desirable radio. Those Jackson-Bell's have a high "cute" factor. The set is in good condition: from what I see, the black base trim could be repainted and the set given a going over with some Goop hand cleaner (the kind WITHOUT pumice) and then some Old English scratch cover.

Magnavox supplied speakers for many manufacturers back then and this one is certainly of the era. I wouldn't suspect it as being a replacement unless there were clues.

Here's the schematic. Click on the "eye" to open it for reading.

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/669/M0009669.htm

NostalgiaAir says "pre 1936" but the tube lineup, TRF design, and the 0 - 100 dial (instead of being marked in kilocycles) dates it to about 1930. The tubes are (4) 24, (1) 45, and (1) 80.

The first thing to do would be to see if the power transformer is still good, because if it isn't, restoration is going to be a lot harder and expensive. Pull all the tubes. See that the fuse in the back is set for the higher voltage per the instruction sticker. The line cord is 80 years old so inspect it carefully for fraying and breaks. Best to replace it. Brown replacement cords with plugs are available at Wally*World. Wire up a "dim bulb tester." This is a set up such that if there's no short in the transformer, the light remains dim but if it goes bright, there's a short. An easy way to make one is to take an old lamp that has a typical cord with two parallel wires. Snip just one of the wires and pull the two pieces out and away from the remaining continuous wire. Strip the ends and connect to a receptacle. Plug the radio in there, the lamp plug into house current, and a 75 watt bulb in the lamp. Turn the radio on and watch the lamp. Should glow dimly. If full normal brilliance, bad news: short.

If no short is evident, leave the tubes out, have the set upended where you can observe the transformer, and plug the set directly into the wall. Watch, listen, sniff, for any fireworks or cooking. If nothing right away, watch for twenty minutes or so. Every now and then unplug the set and feel the transformer. It should only get warm, not so hot you can't touch it. Other checks later.

[stoutblock]

Thanks a bunch for the information guys! I am in your hands so don't let me blow up the house!

So the bulb test basically will tell me if the transformer is drawing current, and if not, it is shorted? Neat trick!

I am wondering about these filter condensors. There are two wires going to one on the outside of the box near the condensor base and none going to the other. Looks like signs of solder on the other but no wire. Doesn't seem right?

Look in the middle of this picture.

[stoutblock]

I found these pictures on the internet. This is a peacock but uses the same RCA radio design. You can see the wires coming out of the top of the condensors where mine are cut off? I wonder if the two wires connected to the base of the condensors on my radio should connect to the top?





My radio:

[stoutblock]

now I am confused. I found another picture of a radio without the wire coming out of the top of the condensors. Also notice the Magnavox speaker. I guess that may be oem?

[stoutblock]

and another:



also found this cool picture:

[Reece]

Magnavox, Lansing, Rola, Utah, and others were common speakers in the early thirties used by many manufacturers. As to the stray wires at the filter caps, you're going to have to trace under the chassis and on the schematic where they go. The filter caps are going to have to be replaced in the circuit. These copper things are early Mershon filter caps, some of the first electrolytics. They hold a borax solution in water. The best thing in your case is to leave them up top for show (take the cardboard tube off the other one unless that's not a Mershon and is a later less photogenic replacement), disconnect them electrically and shine them up with metal polish. Modern filter caps are tiny compared to these so they can be installed under the chassis. Microfarads were expensive to get in 1930 so they used 8mfd. caps, but today you can replace them with 10 mfd. @ 450 volt electrolytics for about a dollar or less apiece. Radio Daze or Just Radios or others are good sources. The other paper caps in the radio need to be replaced, too, and they are cheap.

P.S. Like that picture of the factory!

[Sandy G]

Kewl old set ! Once you get it running, no reason you can't use it regularly.

[Bill Cahill]

Originally Posted by stoutblock

and another:



also found this cool picture:

That Auctorus blue tube you have doesn't appear to be the right tube.
That tube should be a 224, and, have a grid cap on top for that wire.
Bill Cahill

[Bill Cahill]

I'd love to have all those be a u ti ful cathedral radios in that picture!
Bill Cahill

[stoutblock]

Originally Posted by Bill Cahill

That Auctorus blue tube you have doesn't appear to be the right tube.
That tube should be a 224, and, have a grid cap on top for that wire.
Bill Cahill

That is the Jackson Bell factory.

That radio is not mine (that has the blue tube).

[Reece]

The Arcturus 80 (Arcturus called it a 180) is the rectifier. The other 24 is hiding behind it. In the 1920's some manufacturers prefixed the tube number with their "own" identifying number, so a 24 was a 224 when made by RCA, or a 324 if sold by Cunningham. Apparently Arcturus used "1." This practice died out in the 1930's. I always liked those blue tubes and so did the public; they didn't work any better but look so cool, and the box art is out of this world...

http://www.bill01a.com/tubephotos/arct-180.htm

[stoutblock]

Hey guys, sorry for no update but the wife has to go in for emergency back surgery so I'm a little behind plan on testing the transformer.

But while I'm waiting, what is a good source for buying the 6 tubes for this unit?