One For the Scrapbook
 

The *&%$ copper thieves got to this one unfortunately. It's a CTC-16XN but I don't have the back to confirm the model. I have never seen a seperate crt and tuner bezel of this style before with an "X" chassis. The slide away top is not common(?) for an RCA either, and the turntable is newer too. Not only is every bit of wiring either cut or missing, but they yanked the CRT socket off! All the CRT leads were bent to the side, and one is missing for the filament!!

On a better note, the tube is a small jobber rebuild and I am able to make contact with the broken lead. I'm able to apply voltage and see lit filaments. That lead though is deep down but I was able to chip away at the surrounding area creating a "pocket"...

I hope to lay it face down, and use as low as a temperature as I can and fill the pocket with solder, confirm continuity and insert a lead. I could use a third hand here so I could apply heat once only and hope for the best. There's nothing else I can think of to do....

I did clean up the other leads with some 600 grit paper and "lightly" pulled away from the neck and all the others are strong. If I'm successful then before I'd put a socket on I'll test it.

As for the chassis, wires were cut and the P/S transformer is gone and the HV cage. Somehow the Flyback surprisingly survived....

Since we've been seeing so many nice sets and styles lately I wanted to share this one that seems rather rare to me.

Wow... that cabinet is really neat!! Haven't seen that style before. A real shame about the missing parts.

So you say you have the chassis... just not the tranny? What all will you need to make it complete?

Wow someone doing that makes me sick.
What are your plans for it ?

I can't get the chassis pix to upload at the moment but just to tell you what all is gone..

Convergence assembly, yoke, yoke wiring, CRT socket with wiring, purity rings, blue lateral assy, no under CRT controls or bracketry, no wiring between tuner and chassis, no HV cage or 6BK4 shelding, one damaged woofer and tweeter (from yanking the wires off), antenna terminals, no wiring for any of the audio components......

I cannot remember for sure, but another member here used some kind of conductive epoxy or other substance to connect to a below-the-surface CRT pin a year or two ago. It may have been Phil Nelson, and the set may have been a Farnsworth B&W one.

UPDATE: Here is his discussion:

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=251233

Good luck with it.

The cabinet sides are damaged from being stood on end and dragged around like on a concrete floor.

My best hope is to salvage the CRT or keep the safety glass face if nothing else . I have a CTC16E that uses most of the same chassis parts so I may at least keep that. The rest I'll post when available in the classifieds.

It's a shame it ended up this way but at least I can part it out with dignity and it can serve others!

Chris, I remember something about that too and I dug around the posts with no luck finding it. Maybe they'll chime in....I'm open for suggestions!

Yes, I followed a tip from John Folsom and used silver-filled epoxy to reinforce a weak solder joint to a pin lead at the glass surface of the CRT. The TV was a Capehart-Farnsworth 661-P. Here's the thread:

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=251233

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

If you decide to part it out sometime I am looking for some tweeters. I have a post in the classifieds. Just a thought I dont want to sound pushy.

you're lucky as most copper thieves here actually chop the CRT's neck off to get the yoke... and they often also smash the speakers' magnets away (i don't understand what they need them for)

They want the copper wire in the voicecoil.

just think they problely didnt even get 10.00 worth of copper out of there,but did a priceless amount of damage ,it would be nice to ever be around before a scrapper does something like that so you could through them 20.00 and tell them to get lost !

Too nice of a set to part out. :tears:

I'd be looking for a replacement chassis etc. from a less desirable cabinet and try to do a restore

I am starting to understand the copper thing. Some people are really hurting, I am seeing record numbers of 20 somethings living in their car. Homeless camps everywhere. Once you fall that low its almost impossible to get back up.
Is they can cash in a few yokes and ger a few dollars for some junk food from the liquor store they will. People with no future could care less about a vintage tv from the past

I went out in the garage and looked... I knew I had a bunch of RCA chassis that I saved from the old TV shop in Port Arthur... but come to find out they are all CTC15 chasis... four of them (and one has the remote control receiver on it). If one of them had been a 16, you could have used the power tranny and other parts from it. I guess that means all the yokes I have are from 15's as well.

Disappointing... that is such a groovy cabinet!

What happened to your TV was a shame. I also like these sets; never owned one, but I knew a kid who lived on the next street over from me in my hometown whose family had a 3-way RCA console similar to yours. In fact, when I saw the front control panel on yours, it reminded me of my friend's folks' set which was also, IIRC, a roundie.

It would be great if you could get your set working again as it once did; in fact, I hope you do, as they don't make televisions (or anything else, for that matter) like that anymore. I'd try to find a junker CTC16X chassis and just do a one-to-one swap -- take out the sabotaged chassis and install the "new" one.

I don't know why anybody would want to destroy a TV like yours (or any other set made by former American quality TV manufacturers such as RCA, Zenith, Magnavox...). If the person who sabotaged your set took the yoke, it may well have been because of the copper in the windings; same for the power transformer and anything else with wire or coils.

Pretty sure the yoke from a '15 will work on a '16. Need somebody else to confirm.

Looking back through my RCA catalogues, listed in 1966.

The WAYLAND Mark XI Series HG-759 - RCA Victor's lowest-priced Color TV Home Entertainment Center. Contemporary lowboy cabinet high lighted by richly patterned fabric grills and detailed vertical wood paneling. Selected hardwoods veneers and solids in Autumn Mahogany grain or Natural walnut grain. Same components as HG-765 except sound system includes two 3 1/2" tweeters instead of four. H-31 1/4" W-57 5/8" D-26 7/8"
Available without FM Stereo: Mark XI Series HG-755
I also had noted a retail price of $700.00

Here's the chassis.....not a loose wire to be found.

They didn't get the copper out of the flyback! lol

All the RCA roundie yokes were the same from CTC7 to CTC20. Even the CTC15 clones were all the same.

That fly is probably good too. There is more copper in a set of good jumper cables. What a buncha pea-brains:nono:

WOW.. look at how clean looking that chassis is!!!!

Even the flyback looks awesome!! Come on, Marty.... just how bad is the cabinet sides? Can't we work this out? It really is cool looking. i would think we should be able to piece together everything you need to bring it back.

Just a reminder to reflow the two ground stakes on the far right end of the chroma board. They exist in one of two states: either already cracked or gonna crack and cause the heaters in the 6GU7s to go out.

Restore...restore!!!

:banana::banana:

Phil, thanks for posting that link. The additional comments provide some good information for such repairs. I may try either soldering directly as my original thought or the use of solder wick as a pad and attach my lead to that. Being a filament lead, I need to make sure that connection will handle current flow.

Ctc15
 

Any possibility that the one-off power tranny, yoke, etc, could be used to restore the vandalized chassis? I realize it would be a mountain of work.

I tried unsuccessfully to solder to that filament pin....I believe I have two problems here. The break is below the glass surface so all I have accessable is the tip of the wire. I do have a bit of a cavity to work with.

The second issue is that the glass surrounding that wire tip is acting like a heat sink, preventing me from making a good connection.

I afraid to grind down to expose more wire at the risk of further damage but I don't believe I have much choice :worried:

Since you are able to get a wire in there secure enough to light the filament, maybe just pressing the wire tight and filling with the silver epoxy will be sufficient.

Ouch! It really sucks what they did to that chassis and the set in general. With how much of a proclivity those sets had for blowing flybacks if yours is still good then I'd imagine finding a complete junker chassis with only a bad fly should not be too difficult.

Nope, they usually leave the voice coils alone... and they rarely take ferrite magnets, they usually take the alnico plugs from the "square/horseshoe" magnetic circuits which were used in many European sets well into the 80s