Admiral 17T12
 

I'll have a little more free time after next week, so I'm hoping to fix this set this summer (along with that partially rewired Philco 39-116 chassis sitting next to it in the pic). I've always liked the look of this Admiral.

I have the knobs, but not the back. The cabinet has 1 crack in the bottom I'm going to have to glue back together. And I don't really like that someone drilled a hole in the front to put an earphone jack, but I think I'm going to wind up just leaving it. I could fill the hole, but the only way it would look good is if I then painted the cabinet, which I don't really want to do.

It looks like they never made a sams for the 17T1 chassis. But I did find a schematic for it here: http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/a...1_telaides.pdf I also have the sams for the 19A1 chassis which looks very similar.

Hey Adam, did you happen to buy this set recently on eBay, perhaps on Sunday? It looks exactly like the Admiral set I was bidding on that had no back and had a headphones jack drilled into the front. I lost it by about $15.... I was not happy, but if this is that set, im glad to see it went to a good home. Good luck with it bud.

It's the same set, I had been looking for one of these 7" Admirals. Because I like the models with this grille better, I decided to go for it even though it had the hole drilled in the front.

Ok, cool. Honestly I've just been looking for any decent 7" set. This one really looked nice to me and I'd read that their a good running set too, once restored. Welp, keep us up to date with your new project!

I had sold all my round screen b/w table sets except for my 7" Airline, and thought I wanted another one. This model Admiral I've always thought had one of the better looking cabinets for early b/w's. Good luck looking for a 7" set. The Airline I have is also a pretty good performer, it uses a power transformer like the Admiral (I think the Airline has the same chassis used in the Sentinel).

I thought I was going to get far enough with recapping this to try it out tonight, but I just noticed a broken 5Y3 socket. Now I probably won't get to firing it up till next weekend...

I’ve seen a few people on this forum who have 17T1’s or 19T1’s without a back. A good reproduction can be made inexpensively with minimal tools and a lot of patience. I don’t know of anyone (other than me) who has actually made one, but if you’re interested, here’s a link to a “how to make it” discussion:
http://www.videokarma.org/showthread...ferrerid=70422

That's a nice looking replacement back. I downloaded your template. (Although I'm not sure if I'll attempt to make a back this summer.) That material seemed like it was hard to work with, I wonder if it might be easier to make a metal one.

Hey Adam, have ya got it going yet?

I've got it basically working. The one minor problem left is: after it is on, working good, for several minutes (sometimes as much as a half an hour) I start seeing the occasional horizontal black line going across the bottom 1/4 of the picture. This is accompanied by jittery (but it doesn't loose sync) vertical. (I've already recapped, changed that 5Y3 socket, realigned the audio IF, added vertical retrace blanking, and replaced most of the resistors which have anything to do with vertical output in the process of fixing a previous problem it had of not enough vert size) But I'm not sure if this could be caused by a vertical problem anyway, the way it seems to turn single horiz lines on the screen dark. Any thoughts?

I don't know exactly what it was, but I did a bunch of resoldering and cleaned all the controls, and it seems to be working ok now. One thing I think was definitely contributing to it was a resistor (attached to the vert lin control) that was just barely tacked onto the terminal strip it attached to. I almost always seem to find a few goofy repairs like that in sets this old. I also (back when I was recapping) found two resistors that were replaced with ones that were an order of 10 off in value. In comparison, I almost never find stuff like that in sets from the mid-50s or newer.

I still have to clean the cabinet, glue that crack on the bottom, and maybe I'll try to make one of those backs...

I cleaned the cabinet...

Looks great :thmbsp: I've cleaned some 19A11 cabinets and know how tedious it is :drool:

This one was at least pretty clean on the outside to start with. I Still spent a good amount of time trying to polish up the top though. And the inside had some yucky old insect nest looking stuff packed in it.

Ooh-Looking good... Are ya going to leave that modification in it?

Right now I'm thinking to either leave the phone jack in or just leave the hole. I think any method I use to fill the hole will look worse than just leaving it unless I paint over it, and I don't want to paint the cabinet. I've thought about putting some kind of metal disc over it or a knob that does nothing, but again I don't think that would look any better than just leaving the jack in there.

Good work on the set and the cabinet polishing! That 7JP makes a nice picture!

Adam,

The cabinet cleaned up nicely. Good job all around.
I disagree on the hole. I would put a dark brown painted metal plug in there. Should be far less noticeable. Many manufacturers used the plugs on sets lacking certain controls on various models.

-Steve D.

This set came with a strong 7JP4, I think better than my others.

I made a back out of 1/8" aluminum and painted it black. I plugged the hole in front with a plastic plug that was available at a local hardware store, but I have some metal plugs arriving soon. If I don't like it I can always go back to just leaving the hole, but I decided not to put the phone jack back in. This came with a black tuning knob, but a brown contrast and volume knob. I swapped out the black tuning knob for a brown one I had.

So this is what it looks like with a painted plug (I think the color I got is a little too red) And I had to use a plastic one, the metal ones turned out not to be deep enough to latch on to something as thick as this cabinet. It just fell out after you put one in.

That's a great fix. The color seems to match the color of the control knobs.

-Steve D.:tresbon:

I'd consider looking for a red glass pilot light for that hole if in your shoes, but I think that plastic plug looks good enough.

I'd have to say it came out looking good. Nice restoration.