Ram x050 flyback spec sheet
 

Hey all I have a ram x050 flyback that is a replacement for the thordarson fly58 but the numbers are different between the both. There are several numbers in different places as opposed to the fly58 so I need to find out where for example, where number 2 goes on the ram, ect . The small paper that usually comes with a flyback is what I am looking for if at all possible for the ram.

Is this infact the replacement for the thordarson fly58 ?

Give me the make and model/chassis number of the set and I will look it up in the RAM catalog.
The RAM catalog doesn't have a cross reference.

Well the problem with that is my set has like 4 different SAMs and the 2 I have are different but the flyback in this set has a fly58 and I was told that the ram x050 crosses to a fly58 but the connections and ohms are completely different on the ram. The set I have is a cbs Columbia 22c38 1954. I don't know what you may find for that set. I got the ram from ETF but now I have to send it back because it's not for this set. I was never able to find a chassis number unless the 22c38 is the number but this chassis is different then the 2 SAMs I have and the SAMs don't list a thordarson fly58 , it's weird.

Ram catalog says X075 for your set. I might have one. I will look.

https://i.imgur.com/6HoBXBP.jpg?1

What worrys me is getting the wrong one because there are 4 SAMs and there are chassis in the 18s several of them the one SAMs I have shows a fly5 from thordarson and the chassis is so close to mine it would have been very easy to make a mistake thinking that the fly5 was right if it weren't for the fly 58 in my set that is stamped on the flyback as fly58.

Does this look correct?

https://i.imgur.com/Nvzbh3H.jpg?1

I have one brand new in the box if you want it. Let me know and I will list it on Ebay for you ($14.99). It is easier selling there as I can just print the postage right from Ebay.

It looks good so let me check my set against this and I will get back to you tomorrow. And thanks for the help. Tim

Oh boy this set is nuts the x075 shows the horiz cap is number 2 but mine is number 9 so I'm sure the number lineup should be the same for all different brands for the specific tvs. So I guess this means it's not the right one.

I checked the Thordarson catalog and the FLY58 is the correct one for your chassis 22C38. Go by the schematic more than the terminal numbers.

anyone have a ram xo-36 spec sheet? :o

I know I have the correct flyback in my set but I can't go by a schematic of another flyback unless I have the flyback schematic of my set to compare, which is yes the fly58.

https://i.imgur.com/AsfRVMz.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/gVXZ0zq.jpg?1

from what I has seen, the ram xo-36 is a replacement for the rca 630ts / fada clones :o

Yes AKA fly1

then I should prob try to get one, just in case, though my FBT seems to be working fine and OK, that low resistance i saw on the main coil is worrisome.

And I got one! not in my paws yet, but I will soon have a ram xo-36 FBT. :banana:

only question is, do I keep running on the old one, and wait for it to fail?
the one with the oddly low main winding at 95(ish) ohms that all schematics say SHOULD be 180 ohms, but seems to be working OK for now, or go ahead and stick the new one in? :o

How about measuring the new one before doing anything rash?

Well I have found that nos flybacks compaired with original old ones will almost always vary as far as ohms readings. And if your set works fine I myself would leave it alone until you really need to put the new one in. And that 95-180 ohms difference don't seem right, are you sure the schematic is correct and did you lift wires off the flyback befor checking.

Every schematic shows exactly the same thing, be it SAMs, FADA, or RCA,Riders or whatever.

https://imgur.com/x1izfje


between point 1 and 2 ( 2 being the HOT plate cap removed ) is 180 ohms, and from 2 to 3 ( HOT plate cap to cap of hv rect, ) 240 ohms. I did get 240 ohms from 2-3, but not 180 from 1-2 .

the other windings 4-5-6 also checked OK according to the schematic.

I will probably just leave the old one in until it fails ( when/if it ever does ), cause if it lets go, I don't think it will hurt anything, cause there is already a ¼ amp fuse built into damper power line to keep things from catching on fire. :o

But did you check the flyback with the soldered wires removed. And if the flyback takes a dump I doubt anything will turn into fire, but you will loose hv.

Wild guess .... perhaps the early transformers were wound with the same size wire from 1-3 and just tapped at 2, while later models used slightly larger wire between 1 and 2 to better handle the dc plate current of the horizontal output tube. :scratch2:

jr

I had it completely out of the set at one point when checking it,
https://imgur.com/qw1tylZ
https://imgur.com/VQodl6R

I covered it up with super corona dope as best as I could and stuck it back in, made no diff in the resistance :/

interesting thought, hey you never know what they did and after all thordarson always claimed that there flybacks were exact improved replacements. So the thought of using a different gauge wire on a given coil within the flyback to handle higher voltages could be possible but of course the amount of turns would be different for a different gauge wire being thinner or heavier just as long as the ohms were correct for that coil.

Actually, it is the amount of turns that matters to determine voltage, not the wire gauge. The gauge just determines the max current handling capability. The DC resistance measurements given on schematics for transformers are for troubleshooting purposes. A larger gauge wire will have less resistance but less resistance usually means there are shorted turns.

All true, exactly Tim.

so now I'm just waiting for the NOS flyback to come and i will see how it compares to the original

That will work. Either way if your set works ok , if I were you I would just hold on to the new one until you really need it. After all these flybacks eventually will be gone so whatever time you get with the old fly take advantage of it, even if the ohms are not the same.

I really do not know what happened to the one in the set to make the resistance low, but as I mentioned, I seriously doubt what I was told by my grandparent about the set having a raster when he tried it due to the many blown / shorted caps I found in it and burned resistors, mostly all in the Horz section, very unlikely that the osc and output worked at all.