Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M
I have done 3 of these sets. You have the early version. Chassis removal is a pain....I think I got the chassis half way out such that I could reach the HV connector on the CRT and discharged it with a probe. I have the Beitmans service manual (a reprint of GE service manual) for the late set and it reccomends crushing defective original caps and resistors on the PCBs and twisting the old and new component leads together and soldering....I have to agree with that approach....the solder side of the PCB is blocked by the chassis and unscrewing the boards to get at the solder side usually destroys the factory board standoff grounds and involves unsoldering several wires...
HV dielectric bounce back!...It is a treacherous bitch. On almost all sets you will get it if you dead short the HV to discharge. The best way to avoid bounce back is to discharge the HV through a resistor 1M or higher....I almost always use my HV probe to discharge and never get zapped when I do....it's always when I cheat and dead short the HV (or neglect to discharge it at all) that I get shocked....
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I have no problem with the crushing/J-hook method. I just did some of that on my Philco. I didn't even have to take the chassis out - just worked on the IF board with the back open.
The term "dielectric bounce back" is a new one to me. I didn't know what this was called, however I was observing this phenomenon the other day with a pair of electrolytics, a voltmeter, and test clips with and without a bleed resistor, and sure enough it's the case.