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Old 06-07-2020, 10:28 PM
Electronic M's Avatar
Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pewaukee/Delafield Wi
Posts: 15,446
I have done 3 of these sets. You have the early version. Chassis removal is a pain....I think I got the chassis half way out such that I could reach the HV connector on the CRT and discharged it with a probe. I have the Beitmans service manual (a reprint of GE service manual) for the late set and it reccomends crushing defective original caps and resistors on the PCBs and twisting the old and new component leads together and soldering....I have to agree with that approach....the solder side of the PCB is blocked by the chassis and unscrewing the boards to get at the solder side usually destroys the factory board standoff grounds and involves unsoldering several wires...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_rye89 View Post
Discharging at the HV cage, whodathunk!.

On my kcs96 (chassis wrapped around the picture tube neck) it didn't matter how many times I discharged the HV lead with the long screwdriver it still managed to zap me when I reached my arm in there to unhook it from the pic tube. On that set if I take the yoke off I can get my arm in there between the chassis and pic tube neck.
HV dielectric bounce back!...It is a treacherous bitch. On almost all sets you will get it if you dead short the HV to discharge. The best way to avoid bounce back is to discharge the HV through a resistor 1M or higher....I almost always use my HV probe to discharge and never get zapped when I do....it's always when I cheat and dead short the HV (or neglect to discharge it at all) that I get shocked....
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