CTX CVP-5468NI picture increased width then shrank

[luRaichu]

Originally Posted by vol.2

Would highly suspect the "across the line" cap(s).

Monitors of this era typically had x and y film caps that tend to self-destruct after some years. They are usually packaged in plastic that was not yet known to become brittle and crack

Can you elaborate on that? I've pulled and tested four film caps near the deflection coil connector and they all test good. I don't see any visually damaged components.

[vol.2]

Originally Posted by luRaichu

Can you elaborate on that? I've pulled and tested four film caps near the deflection coil connector and they all test good. I don't see any visually damaged components.

Not around the deflection. They would be close to the AC power input area. They would be "safety caps", such as an x or y class cap intended to operate across the input voltage.

That would be my first thought if it isn't turning on.

You can verify it by checking the voltage from the plug up into the PCB and see where things go wrong. Obviously it's line voltage, so be careful.

[luRaichu]

Originally Posted by vol.2

They would be "safety caps", such as an x or y class cap intended to operate across the input voltage.

Ceramics are used for this purpose. I see power going across them.
I've gone through the possible solutions for "DEAD, NO RASTER, etc..." on the Anatek Resolve database, have tested each passive part listed there and they're all good.

[vol.2]

Originally Posted by luRaichu

Ceramics are used for this purpose. I see power going across them.
I've gone through the possible solutions for "DEAD, NO RASTER, etc..." on the Anatek Resolve database, have tested each passive part listed there and they're all good.

Not working at all somewhat implies that you have a power issue. You should be able to figure out what's wrong by tracing all of the voltages from their source. If you're lucky, one of them will be straight-up missing and you'll know right away

Are you getting High Voltage? You can figure that out pretty easily by using a frequency analyzer app on your phone. If your HV is okay, you'll see a spike on the app at around 15kHz for sure

[luRaichu]

Originally Posted by vol.2

Not working at all somewhat implies that you have a power issue. You should be able to figure out what's wrong by tracing all of the voltages from their source. If you're lucky, one of them will be straight-up missing and you'll know right away

What voltages should I be looking for? How can I find them on the board?

Originally Posted by vol.2

Are you getting High Voltage? You can figure that out pretty easily by using a frequency analyzer app on your phone. If your HV is okay, you'll see a spike on the app at around 15kHz for sure

No.

[vol.2]

Originally Posted by luRaichu

What voltages should I be looking for? How can I find them on the board?

No.

Okay. If you have no HV then you know something is up with that part of the circuit then.

You should be able to find the voltages on the schematics. They will show the sources, and those usually have test points associated with them. Sometimes, the PCB will even have the voltages printed on the board next to the test points

Figure out what it needs to run by looking at the schematics, and then go around and see what's missing. If all sources are present, but the high voltage is still out, then you know it's a problem with a component in the path of the flyback, or the deflection coils.

[vol.2]

Just for your reference, this is what the main voltage source part of a Sam's schematic looks like. You can see it shows exactly what components they connect to, so even if you don't see an obvious test point on the PCB, you can measure from the correct side of a component and you should be seeing the voltages shown. Keep in mind that voltages in more complex parts of the circuit will be dependent on the signal source at the input. This is almost always a color bars pattern in my experience.

There should also be voltages called out in a similar way in the area surrounding the HV components (but it won't say "source"), and checking the low voltage sides of components in the high voltage area can give you more clues.

[luRaichu]

I don't have the schematics.

[vol.2]

Originally Posted by luRaichu

I don't have the schematics.

Ahhh. Not sure I can suggest much then. Maybe there's a Sam's Photofacts out there?

Still though, I would completely remove the PCBs and check very carefully for writing anywhere. Most TVs and monitors I've worked on over the years have at least some helpful hints scattered around the place. If you're lucky there will be some voltage sources printed on there in white text.