Old Muntz TV for sale Locally to me, Should I pick it up?

[Kevin Kuehn]

Double check that your replacement electrolytic caps are polarized correctly, if one is reversed it can fail and act like a dead short. Also look for any unusually low resistance reading from B+ to chassis ground. Check that both leads of the focus coil are not shorted to chassis ground. What value fuse is in the holder on the rear chassis? One would expect that fuse to go open if B+ is pulling excess current. You mentioned you don't have Sams 110, by any chance do you have Sams 101, folder 5?

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

Double check that your replacement electrolytic caps are polarized correctly, if one is reversed it can fail and act like a dead short. Also look for any unusually low resistance reading from B+ to chassis ground. Check that both leads of the focus coil are not shorted to chassis ground. What value fuse is in the holder on the rear chassis? One would expect that fuse to go open if B+ is pulling excess current. You mentioned you don't have Sams 110, by any chance do you have Sams 101, folder 5?

When I replaced the Power Supply caps I hooked the positive leads up to their own terminals and the negative leads up to the same terminal which I then bridged over to another empty terminal next to it so I had plenty of room for all of the wires, resistors and the electrolytic capacitor negative lead that all connected to the negative lead of the Power Supply cap.

As for the fuse size I checked the fuse that was in there and it was the correct size fuse.

As for the Sam's, I believe i do have 101 folder 5 in my stash, I'll double check when I get home, as I'm currently at my parent's house for the day.

I've worked on a couple of vintage B & W tv before and this is the first one I've had any major problems with before.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

Double check that your replacement electrolytic caps are polarized correctly, if one is reversed it can fail and act like a dead short. Also look for any unusually low resistance reading from B+ to chassis ground. Check that both leads of the focus coil are not shorted to chassis ground. What value fuse is in the holder on the rear chassis? One would expect that fuse to go open if B+ is pulling excess current. You mentioned you don't have Sams 110, by any chance do you have Sams 101, folder 5?

OK so a little update, I was able to get the broken terminals in the video amp tube socket replaced with some terminals from a parts tube socket from a junk single tube suitcase record player, and I powered it up and the 5U4G tube is still arcing even with all of the power supply caps replaced.

Although I did think of something that could be causing my issues still,
there is an oddball dry electrolyitic capacitor in the power supply that I didn't bother replacing because it was a Dry Electrolytic and usually with my experience those Dry Electrolytics rarely fail.

Plus its an oddball value that I've never seen before, not even in modern TV sets, its a 500 MFD 5 VDC Dry Electrolytic Capacitor that is tied into the power supply chain, and maybe in this case that Dry Electrolytic did short out and that's whats causing my Rectifier tube to arc inside.

Does that sound like it could be a possibility?