New Scores - Looking for Manuals....other stuff...

[Mad-Mike]

So, update, I may have the noise figured out, though I'm not sure, maybe an expert can chime in here...

The Mitsubishi still makes a buzzing noise congruent with the screen brightness, screens with bright content such as the Wii menu or static are louder, black screens like old Arcade or Atari games don't generate nearly as much racket. Been chasing that demon around a bit for awhile off/on. I also noticed if it runs for awhile I hear a louder SNAP where the screen flickers - it tends to do this on a bright screen, darker screens I don't see it happen as much. This has me believing it's the Anode Cap where the issue is coming from.....a bit hard to tell though as I see no arcing even with the lights off (maybe micro sized arc?). Also, is it possible this is because there's no dialectric left on the back of the screen (thusly a bad seal). Also, when I turn it off, a white dot appears on the middle of the screen for a short bit if it's on awhile (if running for 20+ min, and the dot lasts about 1-3 seconds at most).

I'm going to bite the bullet and buy a Degausser when I get around to it, will be handy to have as I own 4 CRTs anyway and I'm starting to enjoy this so might be worth it anyway, esp if any other CRTs come along. I've recovered the tube a LONG way and it looks beautiful except the corners (bright, sharp, crisp colors).

The Magnavox is still working great. I have Roku, Atari 2600, NES and a Second Wii I built running through it in RF and it's looking rather snazzy with little to no interference.

[zeno]

First be sure its not coming from the speakers. Just turn them
off ( if you can ) or turn the volume all the way down & try it.
If its a HV ark it almost has to be at the anode connector,

You need a clip lead & thin screwdriver thats well insulated.
Hook one end of the lead to the driver & one to the CRT ground.
Usually there is a long bare wire across the CRT bell. Thats
the best way to grab the CRT ground. Slide the driver under the center
of the cap & move it around. That discharges it. It may make a
snap but most solid state sets bleed off in seconds anyhows.

The cap is held in by 2 claws. Fold up the rubber & push one to the side
& it will pop off. Look for carbon tracks on the cap & CRT glass. Clean
all with 91% isopropyl alkahol. There is a black coating on most
of the CRT. Do NOT clean that ! Just within abt 4" of the cap.

Reassemble, let dry & try.

73 Zeno
LFOD !