help me ID this mystery GE roundy plz!

[Yamamaya42]

This damn GE set is proving to be a real dog, just as someone predicted from the start, you think it's fixed and working, and it acts up again, the R-Y problem has returned, I take a look in the back, and the heater for the X-DEMOD is dark, but why? New tube, new socket, new resistors, etc, I have re-soldered many times, I have to grab it and wiggle it at odd angles to get it to come on and work correctly, same old song and dance for this thing, same as it ever was.... same as it ever was...

At this point, I'd most likely have to pull the chassis again, and point to point small gauge wire at all connections of the color PCB to get this to stop, because I have re soldered it 3 times at this point, and it's still giving me problems, I MAY do this, I may not, as I did not get this set for functionality, but more so as to have a spare 21FJP22 on hand for the CTC-16, if ever needed, as I mentioned, but it would be nice to see RED fleshtone when I turn it on,

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

This damn GE set is proving to be a real dog, just as someone predicted from the start, you think it's fixed and working, and it acts up again, the R-Y problem has returned, I take a look in the back, and the heater for the X-DEMOD is dark, but why? New tube, new socket, new resistors, etc, I have re-soldered many times, I have to grab it and wiggle it at odd angles to get it to come on and work correctly, same old song and dance for this thing, same as it ever was.... same as it ever was...

At this point, I'd most likely have to pull the chassis again, and point to point small gauge wire at all connections of the color PCB to get this to stop, because I have re soldered it 3 times at this point, and it's still giving me problems, I MAY do this, I may not, as I did not get this set for functionality, but more so as to have a spare 21FJP22 on hand for the CTC-16, if ever needed, as I mentioned, but it would be nice to see RED fleshtone when I turn it on,

If the heater line starts thermally opening to a PCB socket and it relapses (assuming it isn't a socket problem) I'd just bypass the PCB with wire.

On my CTC15 clone I fattened my traces with solder till they were close to 1/16" thick.

My new CTC16 Stockholm combo had the luminance output tube heater thermally intermittent... Somebody was unsuccessfully chasing the issue as they replaced all the horizontal tubes and the luminance output tube and kept the old ones in a cigar box. Since the hot trace for that tube was really short and the ground trace was long, after reflowing and fattening the traces joints and board ground lugs I soldered a backup jumper between the heater ground of the tube socket and the chassis...I don't expect it to relapse.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

If the heater line starts thermally opening to a PCB socket and it relapses (assuming it isn't a socket problem) I'd just bypass the PCB with wire.

On my CTC15 clone I fattened my traces with solder till they were close to 1/16" thick.

My new CTC16 Stockholm combo had the luminance output tube heater thermally intermittent... Somebody was unsuccessfully chasing the issue as they replaced all the horizontal tubes and the luminance output tube and kept the old ones in a cigar box. Since the hot trace for that tube was really short and the ground trace was long, after reflowing and fattening the traces joints and board ground lugs I soldered a backup jumper between the heater ground of the tube socket and the chassis...I don't expect it to relapse.

It is now very clear what was meant when someone said that GE= "good enough"

every time I think I think that it is fixed, it comes back to bite me, I have replaced resistors, sockets, caps, coils, tubes re-soldered 3 times, and the damn thing still acts up! and it's also showing signs of an IF problem now, I lose picture and sound sometimes and have to tap on the 3rd IF area to get it to come back.

I am pretty sure all the parts are OK on the color PCB are OK as I have checked them many times, and the problem is intermittent, like it was from the start, so what I may do, is get 30 gauge bare solid copper wire ( cheap ) and point to point re-enforce the color output areas from the demods to the y-amps, perhaps more.