Best transistor cross reference?

[Duke1921]

What the best way to cross reference a Sony transistor? I’ve been using Digikey for parts and the Sony part number from the service manual doesn’t show up on their site. Thanks.

[ARC Tech-109]

What's the actual number on the transistor itself or where's it located in what model Sony? The service manual part number is most likely their in-house and not on DigiKey or Mouser

[Electronic M]

If you get the Sam's for it Sam's often lists NTE equivalents. You don't want to use NTE equivalents in the sweep stages as some Sony's are picky about what parts will work in those stages, but for signal stages the NTE should be fine.

[Doug]

I like this site even reverse search nte ecg
http://matthieu.benoit.free.fr/cross.htm

[zeno]

Sony has 2 numbers you can try.
First is the generic off the part ex. 2SC867-?? often marked
C867-??.
Actual Sony numbers are long ex. 1-###-###-##
On a lot of parts it will have a partial number.
A Sams or OEM manual helps.
Sony IS very fussy about subs. Never sub any in the Hoz / HV
semis especially before the 80's.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[Duke1921]

Originally Posted by ARC Tech-109

What's the actual number on the transistor itself or where's it located in what model Sony? The service manual part number is most likely their in-house and not on DigiKey or Mouser

2SC1127 is the Sony part number. It’s in a Sony KV 1214 Trinitron. Thanks for your help.

[Duke1921]

Originally Posted by zeno

Sony has 2 numbers you can try.
First is the generic off the part ex. 2SC867-?? often marked
C867-??.
Actual Sony numbers are long ex. 1-###-###-##
On a lot of parts it will have a partial number.
A Sams or OEM manual helps.
Sony IS very fussy about subs. Never sub any in the Hoz / HV
semis especially before the 80's.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

Great info. I really appreciate your input.

[Duke1921]

Originally Posted by Doug

I like this site even reverse search nte ecg
http://matthieu.benoit.free.fr/cross.htm

Awesome - thanks!

[Duke1921]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

If you get the Sam's for it Sam's often lists NTE equivalents. You don't want to use NTE equivalents in the sweep stages as some Sony's are picky about what parts will work in those stages, but for signal stages the NTE should be fine.

Thank you very much for the input

[Duke1921]

So I found an app called NTE quickcross. I used it to buy a replacement for the Sony 2SC1127 that I’m pretty sure is toast. Is that a reliable means to find replacement transistors? Thanks,

[Duke1921]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

If you get the Sam's for it Sam's often lists NTE equivalents. You don't want to use NTE equivalents in the sweep stages as some Sony's are picky about what parts will work in those stages, but for signal stages the NTE should be fine.

It’s for the Blue Chroma. In your opinion, is the NTE replacement ok for this application? Thanks so much.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Duke1921

It’s for the Blue Chroma. In your opinion, is the NTE replacement ok for this application? Thanks so much.

It'll probably be fine. It's the horizontal stage that's usually picky about genuine Sony.

[zeno]

The trouble makers are the hoz output. Its called a gate controlled switch.
They are marked SG-### and are on a heat sink on the HV board.
It takes nothing to blow one & some other parts. Finding the actual
cause is sometimes imposable. When I was at Sony service they would
often change the whole HV board to get one right. That was the mid 70's
and almost nobody would touch one. Those that did charged $125 + parts
sometimes the bill went over $200, a lot back then. My 76 Coupe DeVille
was only about $8000 new IIRC ! And that was a REAL Caddy

On your 2SC1127 you should be OK BUT on older sets you did have to use
the OEM or the color didnt look right. They even had a bulletin on it.
Cross that bridge if you come to it.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[AlanInSitges]

Originally Posted by zeno

The trouble makers are the hoz output. Its called a gate controlled switch.
They are marked SG-### and are on a heat sink on the HV board.
It takes nothing to blow one & some other parts. Finding the actual
cause is sometimes imposable. When I was at Sony service they would
often change the whole HV board to get one right. That was the mid 70's
and almost nobody would touch one. Those that did charged $125 + parts
sometimes the bill went over $200, a lot back then.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

A while back Shango had one of these that kept eating all of the semiconductors in the HO section. After lots of back and forth he tracked it down to a broken - what do you call it, wire? bracket? clamp? - through the flyback core. I can't remember the whole reason this caused it to happen; it was a really complicated circuit.

[zeno]

Watched that & communicated with him. It was a broken U-bolt on the FBT.
Holds the ferrite core halves together. Without it the resonant freq goes off
& you would see garbage on the drain of the SG. Normal wave form would be one big clean spike. Normal transistors in Hoz out can also instant destruct &
sometimes cause a chain reaction BUT most the time there are easy ways to
fix them. The real bad ones were the 17" sets with the controls along the bottom. At the time they were the BEST you could get. The first runs had TWO SG-613's one for hoz out & one in the power supply. A nightmare.
So to Shangos set. Cost was the big thing In the day SG-613 = $25,
OEM damper $8, OEM 2SC867 $12. Add a C-note for labor. A few weeks
later the customer hears a click & everything is blown again. You
have to eat the SG613 as Sony WILL NOT warranty them ( along with
video heads, some clocks & other things).

Nuff fer now, always a pleasure Alan.
LFOD !

Originally Posted by AlanInSitges

A while back Shango had one of these that kept eating all of the semiconductors in the HO section. After lots of back and forth he tracked it down to a broken - what do you call it, wire? bracket? clamp? - through the flyback core. I can't remember the whole reason this caused it to happen; it was a really complicated circuit.