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#31
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sams is on its way :shifty:
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#32
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*kickbump*
Okay, this TV has been sitting on my porch for almost a year. I really feel bad about it and want to get it running again. Last time it was powered up I got a horizontal line. I'm planning on removing the chassis tomorrow. Does anyone have a service manual?
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#33
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Hi Fuji,
I don't think I have a Sams for it but I do have a Beitmans book with a schematic. I can scan it and upload it for you. Give me a day or so. It looks like it uses PC boards so it should be fairly easy to replace capacitors. Eric Quote:
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#34
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I should have the fulls RCA Victor service manual I will look and update this when I run into them . the RCA s that were made in that time seemed to have the same chassis an several sets I don't have a scanner yet and wont have for 2 months , maybe earlier . However , if you paid for the shipping and photocopys , I will gladlly send you a set , they are full RCA original publications , and the service info is around 5 ? pages long , more or less .
5 bucks will probably all that . the schematics that I have are for the sets made in Camden NJ. USA. Ill go through my files and keep in touch . ![]() I like that banana so I felt the need to stick it there . Murray. |
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#35
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I just feel so horrible about the TV sitting outside... I hadn't been around the site for awhile, but now that I'm back I'm fired up about trying my damndest to get this thing displaying a picture, even if it IS only for a few seconds.
One thing i noticed is that the black connector on the CRT seems to be a bit loose on the glass.. would it be advisable to spray WD40 on the pins and use a plastic tool to gently pry the cable away from it? What I want to do is disconnect the chassis from tuner, CRT, and put it on a bench; then on Thursday when the paycheck arrives I'll get a decent soldering station. It's just the capacitor values that'll give me a bit of trouble, i'll be honest i've never undertaken a project like this before but i'm willing to try. i take it most of them would be orange drops? what else would i need? http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...er/chassis.jpg (There are 2 more bolts on the other side. Is that all that's holding the chassis down?) http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...tier/clock.jpg ("Television Movement") http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2.../brokepots.jpg (Will I have to replace these pots as well?) http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2.../pencilbox.jpg (Open pencilbox) http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...r/oddsends.jpg (WTF are all those springs?) http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...thistoowtf.jpg (Do I have to remove this TOO?) http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...tunerwires.jpg (wires from the tuner) http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...thisgetter.jpg (is this getter? the tube lights up though!) http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2.../yokewires.jpg (these are the ones that ctrl the yoke, right? how do I disconnect the slender white one?)
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#36
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Fujifronier , I dont have the exact schematic book for your set , but I got one that might work , what I need to know is what tubes your set has on the tube list then I will compare this with the ones that I have some of the RCA's had the same parts but when next years model came out they put the parts in a different chassis the one's that I have that are similar are for the
KCS 108 chassis model 21 vf 8695 from 1957 Does anyone Know if this will help fujifrontier , or are they different ? it's too bad the tv wasn't a 1951-54 models because I have a stack of them , perhaps for every rca tv made in those years . You can possibly get the set going without the schematics , the one page that you have will do it , the recap. is not bad to do , the wax papers are easy . I have done it with no schematics and the easiest way is to nip off on lead at a time on the cap and solder the new one in . A friend of mine that has been doing radios for maybe 40 years told me this one , Cut the wire off the old cap and make a little hook with a pair of needle nose pliers and trim the new cap and do the same and then you can hook the two looks together and pinch them with the needle nose pliers and solder them together . then do the same on the other side . I've used this method over and over for years and had exellent results . Make notes of everything you take apart and , What I do is take the camcorder and film anything I might question in the future when I assemble it . Also if there is no tube list take a pencil and write the tube numbers beside the sockets . once you pull the chassis it will look alot more simple , just do a couple a day , thats the easy way . I would say there were 30 in the set . best of luck on it . |
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#37
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http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...er/chassis.jpg (There are 2 more bolts on the other side. Is that all that's holding the chassis down?)
Probably. http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...tier/clock.jpg ("Television Movement") http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2.../brokepots.jpg (Will I have to replace these pots as well?) Those aren't broken, they are recessed because they are not usually adjusted by the consumer. http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2.../pencilbox.jpg (Open pencilbox) http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...r/oddsends.jpg (WTF are all those springs?) Don't know, maybe ground springs for the CRT or else they hold some of the wires up? http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...thistoowtf.jpg (Do I have to remove this TOO?) Not if the wires unplug from the chassis. http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...thisgetter.jpg (is this getter? the tube lights up though!) That is the Ion trap, make a note of how it's positioned, (this picture will do nicely) it has to be adjusted correctly or nothing will appear on the screen. http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2.../yokewires.jpg (these are the ones that ctrl the yoke, right? how do I disconnect the slender white one?) Are you talking about the white one going to the side of the tube? Use care here, that's the high voltage lead, the tube can store a charge too and shock you, not fatal but enough to make you recoil and injure yourself or break something. Discharge it to the black coating on the CRT before touching it, do it several times to make sure, then just push it sideways and unhook the clips from the hole in the tube. Do not force it! Last edited by Eric H; 09-30-2007 at 05:42 PM. |
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#38
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Your comments have all been very helpful, i really do appreciate the tip about the capacitor leads. Re: the schematic.... I can't find it. I think mum may have thrown it out. *SIGH* I would like to try that as opposed to unsoldering each and every lead; at least this way i'll have some extra room. I didn't have the time today to start pulling the chassis, but while taking my pictures, from what i could see through the grille underneath I noticed that it does indeed appear to use a PC board type.
To discharge the CRT, do I just touch a screwdriver to the leads and short out both contacts, or could i just be very careful and wear a pair of thick gloves while removing it? I think i'm going to practice recapping an old philco radio that's been sitting around here... if I can get her squawking again then I'll feel fully confident I can do the same with the RCA.... it's just a bunch more caps. From the lurking I've been doing lately i think all this old gal needs is a recap, and some furniture polish and I'll be watching I Love Lucy before i know it ![]() Not to drag us too far off topic - but what would be the best thing to use on semi weathered wood like this, to restore some of the original tone and luster? any place to get similar replacement grillecloth?
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#39
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Fugifrontier , How are you doing with the chassis , did you get it out allright ?
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#40
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No. I haven't gotten it out. I plan to take it out when I've got the Philco i posted about in the "Antique Radio" thread singing again, unless you want me to send it to you to work on
![]() At least then we'll have established I know what I'm doing and am capable of recapping the RCA
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#41
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Recapping the radio first is a great idea . I would take you up on recapping the RCA but it would be a really long way to sent it . Im in Canada .
We dont want to know what the shipping charges on that would be like
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#42
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i would be willing to run a quote. if it's not more than $100 to ship i'll do it if you want
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#43
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Im going to have to pass on it at the moment , I dont have the room , I am building different tv & radio shop and all the test equipment service manuals and other parts are in the kitchen and all over everywhere else . not to mention I added another one to the collection , it's a 21" Philips made in 1958
it was too good of a deal to pass up . Now the chassis is on the counter beside the stove . If this wasn't the situation ,I would say send it up . |
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