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  #16  
Old 09-29-2008, 10:22 PM
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jpdylon jpdylon is offline
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If you can post a bigger picture of the set with the back off I can point out each component.
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  #17  
Old 09-29-2008, 10:40 PM
ihmeyers ihmeyers is offline
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Thank you very much. I will post some pictures tomorrow.
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  #18  
Old 09-29-2008, 10:58 PM
Bill R Bill R is offline
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OK here goes. Looking at pic 2, on the neck of the picture tube there is a red blue and green thing. That is the convergence yoke. Behind that is the deflection yoke. If you have to move it be careful since there is several hundred volts there. In front of the convergence yoke is the blue lateral magnet/purity rings. The long thing on laying across the top is the blue lateral magnet, and the metal rings are the purity rings. Back to the convergence yoke (the red, blue, and green thing), there is a small thumbwheel adjustment on each of the colored pieces. These are used for the static convergence.

Since you have already have degaussed it, you need to check the purity of a red screen. Turn the blue and green screens all the way down. If the screen is evenly red you are good to go. If not you will need to set the purity before going any further. To set the purity you will need to loosen the deflection yoke and move it all the way forward. Be careful not to touch the wiring in the yoke, and do not tilt it left or right. You should have a picture with a bunch of colors, and near the center a red blotch of color. You move the purity rings around until the red spot is in the center of the screen then stop. Move the deflection yoke straight back until the red uniformly fills the screen, then thghten it down. Just snug.

Next turn the blue and green screens up to make a near white screen. This is not critical yet. You need a cross hatch patern on the screen. At this time you only want to look at the center of the screen. You will be setting the static convergence. You will use the thumbwheels on the red blue and green parts and the blue lateral magnet. Do not move the purity rings. Adujst the red and green controls to superimpose the red and green lines in the center of the picture. Don't worry about the edges yet. Red and green will move move diagnally so be patient. A mirror is very helpfull. Once red and green are on top of each other move the blue on top of them the control on top of the convergence yoke will move blue up and down, and the blue lateral adjustment will move it left and right. This should get acceptable convergence over 80 percent of the screen.

After static convergence is done, check that red screen again. If it is not pure start over. Most of the time it will be fine. If it is not be patient you may have to do it more than one time. This is critical to get right or the dynamic convergence will never be quite right.

Once you are finished with convergence you can do a final grey scale adjustment. I do not remember if that set has a service switch or not. If it does it will be on the rear of the chassis. If not use a good black and white picture. Turn the color control all the way down. Turn the brightness down and set the contrest to the mid position. You want a fairly dark, but viewable picture at first. Turn the red and green drive controls down. Turn all the screen controls down. Turn the red screen control up for an even red picture. Next turn the green screen up and you will have an amber pictuer. In other words the green level is even with the red level. Then turn up the blue control until you have a normal black and white picture. Adjust the drive controls to eliminate any coloring in the dark areas of the picture, and the touch up the screen controls for true white in the light areas. Then turn the brightness up. The picture should stay uniform black and white through the entire brightness range with no blooming (picture expands and goes slightly out of focus). If it doesn't just touch up the appropriate screen control. Then back the brightness down and adjust the contrest for a normal black and white picture. Remember you will never have a good color picture if you do not have a good black and white picture.

After the purity, static convergence, and grey scale have been done, turn the color up and adjust the tint control for normal skin tones. If that set has a control that says color fidelity leave it set at mid range. It will affect your black and white picture.

If all is well you will have correct flesh tones with the tint control at the center of its range. If it has to be at either end the set will need a chroma alignment.

Good luck and lets see some pictures.

Bill R
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  #19  
Old 09-29-2008, 11:09 PM
Bill R Bill R is offline
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One more thing, I mentioned dynamic convergenc. This involves all the controls on that small board in the upper left of the set. For now do not turn any of them. You will find the dynamic convergence procedure in a Sam's Photofact set or service manual for that chassis. There are about thirty steps and all the controls interact with each other. Dynamic convergence will clean up the convergence at the edges of the picture. Often once the static convergence is done the dynamic will be fine. You will likely never get it perfect all the way to the edges. Your eye will not notice slight misconvergence at 6 feet or so away anyhow.

Bill R
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  #20  
Old 09-30-2008, 07:56 AM
ihmeyers ihmeyers is offline
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Please see attachment. I could almost make out everything from your post Bill but this clearer picture should help identify everything.

What source should be on the screen when I am checking red? Video white noise? A DVD?


Thanks!

P.S. Based upon Bill's comment on moving the deflection yoke (I assume it's that black metal circle with the white lettering X6 showing), how do I move it without getting zapped?
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  #21  
Old 09-30-2008, 10:41 AM
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jpdylon jpdylon is offline
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See attached.
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File Type: jpg adm_closeup-mod.jpg (110.1 KB, 32 views)
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  #22  
Old 09-30-2008, 11:04 AM
ihmeyers ihmeyers is offline
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Awesome! Thank you.

The only thing I couldn't make out from your diagram is the deflection yoke. I assume it's that circle with the white lettering.

How do I avoid getting shocked when I move it?

P.S. Can't find that Service Switch anywhere. Can anyone point me in the right direction. I looked and looked and just don't see it.
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  #23  
Old 09-30-2008, 01:20 PM
Bill R Bill R is offline
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The deflection yoie is the black thing with the white writing on it as Jordan pointed out. You can touch the black plastic part, just do not get your fingers in the windings.

I do not think that chassis has a service switch. Use a blank white raster with green and blue turned down. If you have a good red raster with no other colors you do not need to move the deflection yoke at all.

Bill R
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  #24  
Old 09-30-2008, 02:23 PM
ihmeyers ihmeyers is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill R View Post
The deflection yoie is the black thing with the white writing on it as Jordan pointed out. You can touch the black plastic part, just do not get your fingers in the windings.

I do not think that chassis has a service switch. Use a blank white raster with green and blue turned down. If you have a good red raster with no other colors you do not need to move the deflection yoke at all.

Bill R
I've got some test patterns on a video set-up DVD but I think they're all for setting color level, tint, contrast brightness etc. Any other content you can think of that I can use to set this?
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  #25  
Old 09-30-2008, 06:43 PM
ihmeyers ihmeyers is offline
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I've got the purity rings set (I think) but now it is way out of convergence. I guess the next step is to adjust the thumbwheels.

BTW, where is brightness and contrast on that set? I don't see it??
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  #26  
Old 09-30-2008, 08:49 PM
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drh4683 drh4683 is offline
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HI Ian,

Glad you were able to join the forum. If you flip down the admiral door up front, it will reveal the auxilary controls including the brightness and contrast. Convergence should go easy. If you have a stable immage with good edges, you can adjust the statics to get satisfactory results. The best though is if you have a dot/crosshatch generator. You shouldn't need to adjust the dynamics which is the board of controls you see up top of the cabinet in back.
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  #27  
Old 09-30-2008, 10:03 PM
JB5pro JB5pro is offline
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I can assist you free of charge.

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  #28  
Old 09-30-2008, 10:25 PM
ihmeyers ihmeyers is offline
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Thank you all very much!

I think I've got it pretty much set-up. Boy, what a nice set. I could not have done it without the help of you guys. Now I know why I never purchased one of these before. I guess it's like a vintage automobile in that if you can't maintain it yourself it will be difficult to keep it on the road.

I will put up some pictures tomorrow. Again thanks to all for your kindness.
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  #29  
Old 09-30-2008, 11:07 PM
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jpdylon jpdylon is offline
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glad to hear its lookin good to ya!
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  #30  
Old 09-30-2008, 11:14 PM
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freakaftr8 freakaftr8 is offline
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Nice job! After a few times you get in down pat on setup. Hey take some pics!
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