RCA 8T241 scored

[Spinning Head]

I checked the sets I have. The one from Detroit has what I would describe as rubber bands around the metal supports. I can see why they are typically missing, as it pretty much disintegrated. The other wierd thing about the CRT mounting is the grounding of the DAQ. It is just a couple of wire loops on either side the yoke.

[bandersen]

Originally Posted by Kurt E

I checked the sets I have. The one from Detroit has what I would describe as rubber bands around the metal supports. I can see why they are typically missing, as it pretty much disintegrated. The other wierd thing about the CRT mounting is the grounding of the DAQ. It is just a couple of wire loops on either side the yoke.

Thanks - I have a few rubber bands lying around
I've seen wire loops used on lots of sets for the dag. I don't think it's all that critical anyway since there's already a doorknob cap to filter the HV.

[Phil Nelson]

Originally Posted by bandersen

looks similar to your photos.

The general layout is quite similar from what I can see. No belt-driven fine tuner on this one, though. It has a separate knob above the channel selector. The knob moves a slug up and down with a lever, like a miniature oil derrick.

I have the tuner out for cleaning right now, by coincidence. There was some monkey business going on with this one. The RF oscillator adjustment screw for channel 7 was hanging slantwise, almost out of its hole. The screw for channel 12 was rolling around loose in the cage. "Gawrsh, Mickey, I wonder why channels 7 and 12 never pull in any good?!?"

Phil

[ChrisW6ATV]

Originally Posted by bandersen

There's a blonde version on eBay right now. Not exactly the most attractive cabinet in my opinion. Wonder why they didn't find some wood with interesting grain for the front?

I like the looks of that blond one better than the darker ones. I have one (non-blond) with a poor cabinet, waiting for some attention since 1980. Mine has the fake burled-wood look on its front panel, if I remember right.

[bandersen]

Aw crap! Now that I look more closely it appears to be some sort of photo finish. I thought that was solid burl or at least veneer.
I was planning on refinishing that front. Maybe I'll just have to lacquer over the existing finish flaws and all.

[jr_tech]

Originally Posted by bandersen

Aw crap! Now that I look more closely it appears to be some sort of photo finish. I thought that was solid burl or at least veneer.
I was planning on refinishing that front. Maybe I'll just have to lacquer over the existing finish flaws and all.

Yep! I think they all have the same pattern... here is mine ... photo1

I just used some little stick-on rubber "feet" on the CRT support brackets... work great!

jr

[bandersen]

Thanks. Looks like yours is in pretty good shape. Mine's a bit chipped up and alligatoring.
I'm heading out to Menards - I'll see if they have any sticky feet.

Phil - I have the "oil derrick" too The rubber band and pulley on my set allow for a concentric fine tuning control.



Good luck with your set. I think I'll make mine my "winter project". It's nice to have someone to compare notes with.

Bob

[Phil Nelson]

If a photo finish has little scrapes down to the white paper backing, you can conceal them with brown oil paints and a fine artist brush. Then lacquer over, and the cabinet will pass the six-foot walk-by test.

Here's the tuner after cleaning. Wish I had done it as soon as I had a raster. It wasn't hard to get out, after all. I tried to take photos of the innards as I cleaned, but it's just too cramped.

On my tuner, the RF oscillator tube has a round spring clip to hold the lead shield against the upright metal support. A twist of wire would work, too.

If you're not going to tackle yours until winter, I will have this as an article on my website. I hope to finish in a week or two, after some new parts arrive. Note to self -- that doesn't include replacing the torn cloth. I should order something now.

Phil

[bandersen]

Wow! I hope I can get mine half that clean. How did you get that tube shield so shiny?

Good idea about the oil paint touch up - I think I can mange it

Yeah, not going to work on this set until winter. Gotta finish my 20X122 then I'm going to tackle my Philco 49-1040.

I hadn't noticed that lead shield before. Weird - wasn't the usual steel good enough?

[Phil Nelson]

The shiny shield is aluminum, so soft you can practically shine it with your tongue. Steel or tin-plated shields . . . forget it.

The lead shield is to minimize microphonics in the oscillator tube from mechanical vibration. Same reason they would never mount the speaker right next to the tuner. So, you want to lash that shield down securely.

The tuner works the same whether the outside's clean or dirty, but after slaving an hour on the insides, I reward myself by spiffing up the parts you can see in a photo.

Phil

[Phil Nelson]

Incidentally, if you haven't found a chassis number elsewhere, try peeking under the CRT bell. That's where mine (KCS38) was stamped.

Phil

[bandersen]

Nope, no chassis number there. I pulled the chassis last night and couldn't find one anywhere.

I just remembered that a local antique shop has a couple T-100s
Naw, that would be crazy! I can barely move around my place anymore - too many TVs.

[Eric H]

Is the cabinet on the T-100 the same overall size as the 12" T-120?
they look pretty much the same except the T-120 doesn't have the cloth grille.

[jr_tech]

Both are about 21"W x 21"D but the T-100 is about 15"High and the T-120 is about 18"H.

jr

[bandersen]

I've put it back together and stacked it on the last place available. There she'll have to wait a few months