Bendix

[Charlie]

This set was found as a result of putting an ad for old TV's in the Tyler County Booster... our local newspaper that's about 6 pages long! I had several calls, but mostly for sets of the 90's. One old timer called and told me he had a "Hatchet" set. I had no freaking clue as to what he was talking about until one night I was at my parents' watching tv... on a Hitachi. Ahhh... that's what he meant!

I finally got a call from a guy that said he had a set from the 40's. He got my undivided attention. After driving around in the boonies and sticks for a couple of hours, I finally found this guy's place deep in the woods. Glad I did that during daylight!

Turned out to be a Bendix... I think the model is 2001. I haven't looked it up yet... all of my Sams are in storage right now. Looks to have a 10" tube, and the insides look okay. Tube tester shows "borderline" on the meter, but that still might be just fine. I have another 10" round tube (likely the same) that tests excellent if i Need it.

The cabinet is a little rough... mainy the finish. Should re-finish pretty easily. I'm not sure what to do about the front panel. I don't want to lose the gold lettering where is says Bendix, volume, channel, etc.

The channel knob was missing... i just stuck something on there to see if the tuner moved freely.... it does.

This set (and the other two in the color thread) probably wont be messed with right away. I'm trying to accomplish some work on my new shop before I get in too deep working on TVs again.

[Charlie]

After finishing things up with the Zenith porthole, I decided to try playing with this Bendix. There's not a whole lot under the chassis, so it was very inviting. Less is more!

Checking tubes first, I found the 5V4 to be shorted. Glad I found that before turning this thing on!

Initial soft starting revealed one of the cans getting hot by the time I got it to 70 volts. Changing caps should have been a breeze... lots of room under there... but the majority of the paper caps were all shoved in a corner and all connected to the same terminal strip. Due to the way they were bunched up, I couldn't change one at a time... had to put out all of them in that corner before installing new ones.

After plugging in the HV, I got a picture with good brightness on the 10BP4, but was having a vertical issue. Part of the bottom was superimposed in the top half. Tried swapping some 6SN7's ... which helped a little, but not enough. Went back and found a resistor in the osc that was reading too high and changing as it warmed up... and also a mica cap that was off spec as well. Now, I've got a good stable picture.

But....

The picture is not centered correctly and there's no provisions for centering. The pic sits too low and to the left. Suggestions?

[DaveWM]

is there anyway to just reposition the yoke?

[Sandy G]

...Or change the magnetic constant of the universe. Learned that trick from Q, works every time. Kinda hard the first time or 2 you do it, though. Seriously, great job on that set. Gotta be a rare one. You'll get there, you're 80-85% there as it is !

[Charlie]

I did try moving the yoke around just a little... didn't do much. The yoke is all the way up against the bell of the tube like it should be.

[Charlie]

Just made a little discovery, however I haven't turned turned it back on yet to see the results. The focus coil around the neck was loose... enough to where simply touching it made it move! That probably answers some questions!

[jr_tech]

Have you adjusted the magnet for the ion trap? perhaps you can find a spot for max brightness *and* better position.

jr

[Charlie]

I did move the trap a bit and got much better brightness, but it did not do much for positioning. I'm about to plug 'er back in and see what moving that focus coil did.

[DaveWM]

.... come on Charle!....

[Charlie]

I got it center better now, but have a width issue. Gonna try swapping out tubes in the HV cage. Does anyone know roughly what HV should be on this 10" tube? There was no mention of it in the Sams. I earlier, I was getting 8 kv. The 16" tube in that porthole called for 10-12kv, so I was guessing that this 10" tube would be a little less than that.

[Phil Nelson]

Originally Posted by Charlie

Does anyone know roughly what HV should be on this 10" tube?

This 10BP4 data sheet says 10KV maximum anode voltage, 9KV typical.

http://scottbecker.net/tube/sheets/049/1/10BP4.pdf

That's a good website to bookmark. Data sheets for about a zillion tubes.

Phil Nelson

[DaveWM]

so for the focus is really a focus/centering adjustment? there must be provisions for up and down adjustment then.

[Charlie]

Thank you, Phil.

Electrostatic focusing sets use the little rings with tabs for centering.

Magnetic focus sets usually have devices on the focus coil for centering. Sometimes it's a rod that moves around or spring-loaded screws, or a lever at the top of the focus coil that makes your adjustment. The hole of the focus coil is a little larger than the neck of the tube so it can be moved around a bit.

On this set, there's no rods or levers, but the mounting screws can be loosened for a good position of the coil. Usually, I wouldn't mess with something like that because I figure it was likely in the position it needed to be in already. When I looked at the coil closer, I noticed it looked like it was tilted downward a bit, and when I touched it, it moved the other way... and then brought the picture closer to where it needed to be.

[akent36]

Some Bendix TV's I have seen are extremely simple, even out-Muntzing Muntz. Is this one of them?

[Charlie]

Yes, I'd say this set is pretty simple. There's not a lot under that chassis.